What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A wooden tablet stand is a quick weekend project, but the retaining ledge is what makes it useful. Without that front lip, a tablet can slide off when the stand is bumped or placed on a smooth countertop. This design uses a hardwood or plywood base, a slightly angled back support, and a separate ledge that holds the tablet without covering much of the screen.
Contents
Project overview
The stand is sized for most tablets and e-readers up to about 10 inches wide. The finished dimensions are approximately 11 inches wide, 8 inches deep, and 5-1/2 inches tall at the back. Adjust the width if you use a large tablet with a thick protective case.
| Material | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4-inch hardwood | Strong, attractive, and easy to sand | Costs more and may require edge-gluing for wide pieces |
| 3/4-inch plywood | Stable, affordable, and less likely to warp | Exposed edges need sanding, veneer, or paint |
| 1/2-inch plywood | Light and inexpensive | Can flex unless reinforced; edges are less durable |
For a first build, 3/4-inch plywood is the cheaper option and works perfectly well, especially if you plan to paint the stand. Clear-finished hardwood is worth choosing when the stand will sit on a desk or kitchen counter all year.
Materials and tools
You will need one base measuring 11 by 8 inches, one back support measuring 11 by 5-1/2 inches, and one retaining ledge measuring 11 by 1-1/4 inches. Use 3/4-inch stock for all three parts. A strip of 1/4-inch cork or thin rubber under the base and on the ledge is optional but useful for preventing sliding and protecting the tablet case.
Gather wood glue, four 1-1/4-inch screws, sandpaper from 120 through 220 grit, a drill, a countersink bit, a square, clamps, and a saw. A portable table saw makes repeated cuts easy, but a circular saw with a straightedge guide is sufficient. Add a set of small woodworking clamps if you do not already have them.
A random-orbit sander is convenient, not essential. The project has only a few parts, so hand-sanding is a reasonable cheaper option. If you cut plywood, a sharp blade with at least 40 teeth will reduce splintering on the visible faces.
Cut and prepare the parts
Cut the base to 11 by 8 inches. Cut the back support to 11 by 5-1/2 inches, then bevel its lower edge so it sits neatly on the base. The exact bevel is not critical; an angle between 10 and 15 degrees works well. A steeper back makes the screen easier to see from above, while a shallower angle gives the tablet a lower, less prominent profile.
Cut the retaining ledge to 11 by 1-1/4 inches. Round over or soften its top front edge. A square edge can scratch a tablet case and feels uncomfortable when you pick up the device. Break every exposed corner with 120-grit sandpaper, then progress to 180 or 220 grit.
Dry-fit the parts before applying glue. Place the back support near the rear edge of the base and set the ledge about 1-1/2 inches from the front edge. This leaves enough room for the tablet while keeping its lower edge supported. If you use a thick case, test the actual tablet and move the ledge forward or backward as needed.
Assemble the stand
Mark the back support position on the underside of the base. Apply a thin, continuous bead of wood glue to the bottom edge of the support, set it on the marks, and clamp it square to the base. Drill two pilot holes through the underside of the base into the support. Countersink the holes, then drive the screws. The screws mainly hold the joint while the glue dries; over-tightening can strip plywood or pull the support out of square.
Let the glue cure according to the label, normally at least 30 minutes clamped and several hours before heavy use. Wipe away squeeze-out while it is rubbery. Dried glue is harder to remove and can leave pale patches under stain.
Position the ledge across the front of the base. Check that it is parallel to the front edge and centered from side to side. Glue it in place, then drill two pilot holes through the underside of the base and drive two countersunk screws. If you prefer a cleaner appearance, use glue alone, but the joint must be clamped firmly and the mating surfaces must be flat.
Test the retaining ledge
Before finishing, place the tablet in its normal case on the stand. The ledge should hold the lower edge securely without covering more than about 1/2 inch of the screen. A ledge around 3/4 inch high is usually enough for a bare tablet. Cases with thick corners may need a deeper ledge or a shallow notch cut into its top edge.
Test the stand on a smooth table and deliberately nudge it from the side. If the tablet slides forward, add a narrow strip of cork, felt, or rubber to the ledge. If the whole stand moves, add non-slip feet underneath the base. Do not use thick feet at the rear only; that changes the viewing angle and can make the stand rock.
The most common failure is a back support that loosens because the screws were driven without pilot holes or the glue joint was contaminated by finish. Another is a ledge placed too far forward, which leaves the tablet leaning against a weak edge rather than the back support. Test the geometry before adding finish.
Finish the wood
For an indoor desk, two or three coats of water-based polyurethane give good protection with little odor. Lightly sand with 220-grit paper between coats and remove the dust before recoating. An oil finish gives hardwood a warmer appearance but needs longer drying time and offers less resistance to standing water.
In a kitchen or workshop, use a more durable film finish and pay attention to the end grain and screw holes. This is not an outdoor project: seasonal humidity can move solid wood, and rain will quickly damage an unfinished plywood edge. Store the stand indoors during damp spring or winter conditions.
Once the finish is cured, apply thin protective pads to the bottom and ledge. A self-adhesive cork sheet is easy to cut into neat strips. For frequent kitchen use, silicone rubber bumper feet resist moisture better than felt. Keep the pads thin so they do not change the stand’s angle or cause the base to rock.