What's inside
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A folding book stand is a useful small woodworking project because it needs only a few straight cuts, a pair of hinges, and one adjustable support. This version holds cookbooks, music books, tablets, and large paperbacks at several reading angles. It folds nearly flat for a drawer or shelf, while the front stops keep pages or a device from sliding forward.
Contents
Project overview
The stand consists of a 12-by-9-inch back panel, a 12-by-3-inch front ledge, and two folding support arms. The book rests on the ledge and leans against the back panel. Two small adjustable stops on the ledge prevent pages from slipping off, and can be moved to suit a narrow paperback or a wide cookbook.
| Material | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2-inch plywood | Stable, inexpensive, quick to cut | Edges need sanding or edging |
| 3/4-inch solid wood | Better-looking edges and more weight | Costs more and may move with humidity |
| Hardwood dowel stops | Smooth, durable, easy to grip | Require accurate drilling |
| Flat wooden blocks | Cheapest and easiest adjustable option | Less polished appearance |
For a first build, 1/2-inch birch plywood is the sensible choice. It stays flatter than inexpensive construction plywood and is easier to finish than MDF. A birch plywood project panel is convenient if you do not want to buy a full sheet.
Materials and tools
You will need one 12-by-9-inch back panel and one 12-by-3-inch ledge, both cut from 1/2-inch plywood or solid wood. Add two 1-by-6-inch support arms, two 1 1/2-inch butt hinges, four small screws for the hinges, and two 1/4-inch-diameter by 2-inch-long dowels for the adjustable stops.
For each stop, use a small wing nut, washer, and 1/4-inch threaded bolt, or use a simple carriage bolt passing through a slot. The threaded hardware gives a more secure adjustment. You will also need wood glue, 120- and 220-grit sandpaper, a drill, a 1/4-inch bit, a jigsaw or handsaw, a screwdriver, and a square. A small butt hinge set is preferable to cheap piano hinges here because the stand folds more cleanly and the hinge leaves are easy to recess.
Cut and prepare the parts
Cut the back panel to 12 by 9 inches and the ledge to 12 by 3 inches. Round the two front corners of the ledge with a 1-inch-radius curve, or simply soften them with sandpaper. Sharp corners are uncomfortable when the stand is carried and can catch on a book cover.
Cut the support arms to 1 by 6 inches. Round one end of each arm if desired. Mark a centerline along each part and drill a 1/4-inch hole 1 inch from the square end. These holes will receive the pivot screws or bolts. Before assembly, sand every edge through 220 grit. Do not wait until after the hinges are installed; abrasive dust can work into the hinge knuckles.
Make the adjustable stops
Mark two parallel slots on the ledge, each 3 inches long and 2 1/2 inches from a side edge. Keep the slots at least 3/8 inch from the front and back edges. Drill a 1/4-inch hole at each end of each slot, then remove the waste between the holes with a jigsaw. File the sides until a 1/4-inch bolt slides freely but does not wobble excessively.
Make two stop blocks from 3/4-by-1-by-1-inch hardwood scraps. Drill a centered 1/4-inch hole through each block. Insert a bolt through each block and the slot, add a washer underneath, and tighten a wing nut below the ledge. The blocks should slide with the wing nuts loosened and lock firmly when tightened. If the blocks rotate instead of staying square, glue a second small piece behind each one to form an L-shaped stop.
For an easier, less adjustable version, skip the slots and glue two 3/4-by-1-inch blocks permanently to the ledge. That is fine if the stand will hold one regular-sized book. The slotted design is worth the extra work for cookbooks, sheet music, or a tablet.
Assemble the folding frame
Position the ledge across the bottom edge of the back panel, with the ledge’s top surface flush against the panel’s face. Mark the hinge locations about 3 inches in from each side. Recess the hinge leaves slightly with a chisel if they sit proud; a hinge that stands above the wood can prevent the stand from folding flat.
Attach the hinges so the ledge folds upward against the back panel. Use screws no longer than 3/8 inch in 1/2-inch material. Longer screws can break through the front face. Drill pilot holes first, especially near plywood edges, then test the hinge movement before fully tightening the screws.
Turn the assembly over and attach one support arm to each side of the back panel. Place the pivot about 2 1/2 inches up from the bottom edge and 1 1/2 inches in from each side. Use a short machine screw, washer, and locknut, tightened just enough to let the arms swing. If you prefer a wooden pivot, use a 1/4-inch dowel glued into the back panel and leave the arm free to rotate around it.
When open, the arms should swing behind the back panel and contact the underside of the ledge. Adjust their position until the back panel leans at roughly 65 to 70 degrees from the table. A steeper angle suits reading; a shallower angle is more stable with a heavy cookbook. Add thin rubber pads under the arm ends if the stand slides on a smooth counter.
Test, finish, and troubleshoot
Load the stand with the heaviest book you expect to use before applying finish. Check that both arms contact the ledge evenly. If one side rocks, loosen its pivot and realign the arm. If the ledge folds too far or the book pushes it downward, add a 1/2-by-1-inch hardwood stop under each arm where it meets the ledge.
Apply two or three thin coats of water-based polyurethane, sanding lightly with 220-grit paper between coats. It dries quickly and does not leave a strong odor around food. For a workshop-only stand, paste wax is faster, but it offers less protection from spills. Do not coat the hinge knuckles or the threaded hardware; finish buildup can make both bind.
To fold the stand, loosen the stop wing nuts and slide the blocks inward if necessary. Swing the support arms flat, then fold the ledge against the back panel. Keep the wing nuts only finger-tight during storage. Over-tightening them can crush the plywood around the slots and eventually make adjustment sloppy.
Where to spend money
Spend extra on straight plywood, decent hinges, and washers that are large enough not to pull through the slots. You do not need expensive hardwood for the whole project. A 1/4-inch wing-nut hardware assortment is usually adequate, and ordinary scrap hardwood makes perfectly good stop blocks.
If you lack a jigsaw, make the stops from two separate drilled holes connected by a shallow channel, or use fixed stops. If you expect to build several stands, a compact jigsaw makes the slots and rounded corners much easier, but it is not necessary for one project.