What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
This small chest keeps a jigsaw puzzle and its loose pieces together between sessions. The sliding lid takes little space to open, and the box is a manageable first project if you can make straight cuts and sand carefully. The plan below makes a chest with outside dimensions of about 14 × 10 × 3 inches—large enough for many standard puzzles, though you should check your puzzle’s dimensions before cutting.
Contents
Plan the chest and check the fit
The chest has a 1/2-inch plywood bottom, 1/4-inch plywood sides, and a 1/4-inch sliding lid. The sides form a shallow tray around the bottom; grooves near the top guide the lid. A 14 × 10-inch outside footprint leaves roughly 13 × 9 inches of usable space, depending on how accurately you cut and assemble it. For a puzzle larger than that, increase the length and width before starting.
Use cabinet-grade plywood or straight, dry solid wood. Plywood is stable and easy to find in thin sheets; solid wood can look warmer but may move with humidity. Avoid warped stock: a twist in a long side can make the lid bind even when its groove is correctly sized.
Materials and tools
You’ll need a 1/2-inch plywood bottom, a 1/4-inch plywood lid, and enough 1/4-inch plywood or straight 1/4-inch-thick boards for the sides. Add wood glue, sandpaper, and a small pull or finger notch for the lid. A 1/4-inch plywood project panel is convenient for the lid and sides; check that it is flat and has no loose veneer at the edges.
For tools, use a saw that can make controlled straight cuts, a square, a ruler or tape measure, clamps, and a drill if you plan to attach a pull. A table saw makes the lid grooves repeatable, but a router with a straight bit and guide can work too. If neither is available, choose a shop that can cut grooves accurately rather than trying to improvise a loose-fitting lid.
Cut list and groove options
Cut these parts for the stated outside size. The long sides run the full 14 inches; the end pieces fit between them. The bottom sits under the side walls. Make a test cut and dry-fit the parts before applying glue.
| Part | Quantity | Starting size | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom | 1 | 14 × 10 × 1/2 in. | Sand edges square |
| Long sides | 2 | 14 × 3 × 1/4 in. | Groove each inside face |
| End sides | 2 | 9 1/2 × 3 × 1/4 in. | Fit between long sides |
| Lid | 1 | About 13 1/2 × 9 1/2 × 1/4 in. | Trim to fit after assembly |
Groove dimensions depend on the actual lid thickness. Measure the lid with calipers if available; nominal 1/4-inch plywood can be thinner or thicker. Cut a groove about 1/4 inch deep, positioned roughly 1/2 inch below the top edge. Set its width just wider than the lid—around 1/32 inch of total clearance is a useful starting point. Too little clearance causes binding; too much lets the lid rattle.
| Groove method | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Table saw with dado or repeated passes | Shop with a saw and suitable setup | Fast and consistent; requires careful fence setup |
| Router with straight bit and guide | Small shop or one-off build | Good control; clamping and test cuts matter |
| Have a shop cut the grooves | No safe groove-cutting setup | Costs more than doing it yourself but avoids a poor fit |
Cut the sides and test the lid
Cut the side pieces to size and mark the inside faces so you do not groove the wrong side. Make a short test groove in scrap of the same thickness. Slide the lid material through it by hand: it should move without forcing and should not drop out of the groove when tilted slightly. Adjust the fence or router guide in small increments. A groove that is too tight is difficult to fix once the chest is assembled.
Cut grooves along the inside faces of both long sides. Keep their height aligned by referencing each piece from the bottom edge. Check that the lid can travel across both grooves without catching. If the grooves are not parallel, the lid will bind near one end; correct the setup before moving on.
Assemble the box square
Dry-fit the sides around the bottom, with the end pieces between the long sides. Confirm the corners meet and the bottom sits flat. Apply a thin, even layer of glue to the side-to-bottom joints, then clamp. Measure diagonally from corner to corner; the two measurements should match within about 1/16 inch. If they do not, adjust the clamps before the glue sets.
Use brad nails or small screws only if needed to hold thin sides in place. Near 1/4-inch material, nails can split the edge, and screws can pull through, so drill pilot holes and keep fasteners away from the ends. Glue alone is usually enough for a small, lightly loaded chest when the parts fit well. Wipe away squeeze-out before it hardens, especially inside the lid grooves.
Fit the sliding lid
After the glue cures, measure the opening between the grooves and cut the lid slightly oversize. Trim it in small amounts until it slides smoothly from end to end. Leave a small gap at the closed end so seasonal movement or a little dust does not jam it. If the lid sticks, look for glue, splinters, or misaligned grooves before sanding the whole panel thinner.
Add a finger notch at the open end with a drill and file, or attach a small pull with short screws. Keep the pull low enough that the lid still travels freely. A small box pull is useful if the lid is difficult to grip; a simple notch costs nothing and is less likely to catch on nearby items.
Sand, finish, and check operation
Sand exposed edges and corners with 120-grit paper, then smooth visible surfaces with 180-grit. Do not round the lid edges heavily; a rounded edge can make the fit uneven. Test the lid again after sanding. Apply a thin coat of water-based finish, shellac, or another finish suitable for indoor use, keeping finish out of the grooves. Finish can swell wood fibers or add thickness, so let it dry fully before the final fit check.
The cheapest finish is often enough for a chest kept on a shelf. A hard-wearing clear coat makes sense if it will be handled frequently, but more coats mean more drying time and another chance for finish to build up in the tracks. Before storing a puzzle, make sure the chest is dry and the lid still moves freely.