What's inside
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Contents
Project overview
This wall-hung cabinet keeps paint, glue, brushes, thread, and other small craft supplies together without taking much floor space. The finished case measures about 24 inches wide, 30 inches high, and 8 inches deep. It has two adjustable shelves, a hinged door, and a plywood back. Adjust the dimensions to suit your wall, but keep the cabinet shallow enough that supplies remain easy to reach.
The plan uses 3/4-inch plywood for the case and shelves, with a 1/4-inch plywood back. A 1/2-inch shelf can work for light items, but 3/4-inch stock is less prone to sagging when a shelf is loaded with jars or tools. This is a manageable weekend project for a beginner who can make straight, square cuts.
Materials and tools
You’ll need one 4-by-8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood, a 2-by-4-foot piece of 1/4-inch plywood, edge banding or solid-wood strips for exposed edges, wood glue, screws, two hinges, a cabinet catch, and shelf pins. Pick up 1/4-inch cabinet shelf pins and a matching drill bit if you don’t already have them. Check the pin diameter before buying; 5 mm pins are common too, and the sizes are not interchangeable.
Use a circular saw with a straightedge or a table saw for the panels, plus a drill, square, tape measure, clamps, and a sanding block or sander. A shelf-pin drilling jig makes evenly spaced holes easier, but a carefully marked scrap template is adequate for one cabinet.
Cut list and layout
Cut the following parts from 3/4-inch plywood. The dimensions assume the top and bottom fit between the two sides.
| Part | Quantity | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Sides | 2 | 30 × 8 inches |
| Top and bottom | 2 | 22 1/2 × 8 inches |
| Adjustable shelves | 2 | 22 1/2 × 7 1/2 inches |
| Back | 1 | 24 × 30 inches, 1/4-inch plywood |
| Door | 1 | About 23 7/8 × 29 7/8 inches |
The door size leaves roughly 1/16 inch of clearance on each edge of the case. Measure the assembled opening before cutting the door; plywood thickness and small assembly errors can change the final opening. For a heavier door, use 3/4-inch plywood. For a lighter door, 1/2-inch plywood is fine if the hinges are fastened securely.
Build the cabinet case
Mark the inside faces of both sides, then drill shelf-pin holes before assembly. Place the first row about 1 1/2 inches from the front edge and the second row 1 1/2 inches from the back. Keep each row parallel to the cabinet edges and start the holes around 3 inches from the top and bottom. Space holes 1 inch apart for flexible shelf positions. Drill only deep enough to seat the pins—typically about 3/8 inch. A drill stop or taped bit helps prevent a hole from breaking through the outside face.
Apply glue to the ends of the top and bottom panels. Position them between the sides, flush with the cabinet edges, and clamp the assembly square. Drill pilot holes to reduce the chance of splitting, then drive two or three 1 1/4-inch screws through each side into the panel ends. Check both diagonals: if they differ by more than about 1/8 inch, adjust the clamps before the glue sets.
Lay the 1/4-inch back over the case and align its edges. A square back locks the cabinet against racking, so check the diagonals again before fastening it. Use glue and 3/4-inch brads or short screws spaced about 6 inches apart. Do not use screws long enough to poke through the inside surfaces.
Fit the door and finish
Sand the exposed plywood edges and cover them with iron-on edge banding or thin solid-wood strips. Edge banding is faster and is usually sufficient for a utility cabinet; solid edging is tougher if the cabinet will be handled often. Sand to 180 grit, ease sharp corners slightly, and apply paint or a clear finish before installing the door. Finish the door’s front and back to reduce uneven moisture absorption that can cause warping.
Attach two surface-mount hinges along one side, placing them roughly 3 inches from the top and bottom. Use a third hinge if the door is heavy or starts to sag. Set the door with even gaps, drill pilot holes, and test its swing before installing a magnetic catch or roller catch on the opposite side. If a gap is uneven, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the door before adding filler or redrilling.
Mounting and loading
Locate two wall studs and fasten the cabinet through its back and into the studs with at least two 2 1/2-inch cabinet or structural screws per stud. Confirm the screw length clears the back and reaches the stud by at least 1 1/2 inches. Use a level while driving the first screws. Drywall anchors alone are not a good choice for a loaded cabinet; use a wall cleat fastened to studs if the cabinet cannot line up with two studs.
Install shelf pins at matching heights and set the shelves in place. Keep heavy jars on the lower shelf, and avoid concentrating weight at the center of a shelf. For comparison, 3/4-inch plywood is stiffer but heavier and costs more; 1/2-inch plywood is lighter and cheaper but can bow under dense supplies. If your shelves span the full 22 1/2 inches and will hold paint or hardware, choose 3/4 inch. If they hold light fabric, paper, or brushes, 1/2 inch is a reasonable cost-saving option.
Before loading the cabinet, pull gently on the case to check the wall attachment and open and close the door several times. Recheck the mounting screws after the first week, especially if the wall or cabinet shifts as the wood acclimates.