What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
This entryway bench combines a comfortable seat with a lift-up compartment for shoes, gloves, bags, and seasonal gear. The finished bench is about 36 inches wide, 18 inches deep, and 20 inches high—large enough for most entryways without blocking a standard door. It is a good intermediate woodworking project because the joinery is straightforward, but the lid must be fitted carefully so it opens smoothly and stays safe.
Contents
Project Overview
The bench uses a plywood box covered with a solid-wood seat frame and trim. Plywood keeps the carcass stable through seasonal humidity changes, while solid wood gives the visible surfaces a warmer appearance. Plan on one weekend for construction and finishing, including drying time.
| Choice | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4-inch plywood carcass | Stable, affordable storage box | Needs edge banding or trim to hide plies |
| Solid pine panels | Lower-cost painted bench | More likely to move, cup, or dent |
| Hardwood seat and trim | Clear finish and heavier use | Costs more and requires careful sanding |
| Soft-close lid hinges | Families and frequent use | More expensive; require accurate installation |
Materials and Tools
Buy one 4-by-8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood, two 1-by-4 boards for the seat frame, and enough 1-by-2 stock for the legs, internal cleats, and trim. Use 1-by-6 or 1-by-8 boards for the seat slats, depending on the look you want. Select straight boards without loose knots, especially for the lid.
You will also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, 1 1/4-inch brad nails, sandpaper, and a finish. A continuous hinge and lid support are easier to align than several small hinges. A circular saw with a straightedge works, though a table saw makes repeated cuts more accurate. Add a pocket-hole jig if you prefer hidden screws for the face frame.
Wear eye protection when cutting and sanding. If the bench will sit on a hard floor, include felt pads or adjustable feet. They prevent rocking and reduce damage to tile or finished wood.
Cut List
These dimensions produce a 36-by-18-inch bench. Cut two side panels at 18 by 17 1/4 inches, one front panel at 34 1/2 by 17 1/4 inches, and one back panel at 34 1/2 by 17 1/4 inches. The 17 1/4-inch height leaves room for the top frame and seat boards.
Cut four legs at 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 by 18 inches, or use 2-by-2 stock if you want a lighter appearance. Cut two seat-frame rails at 36 by 3 1/2 inches and two end rails at 16 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches. The lid can be a single 36-by-18-inch panel, but two boards joined along the length are less likely to cup. Leave a 1/8-inch gap around the lid for seasonal movement.
Build the Storage Box
Start by cutting all plywood parts square. Mark the inside faces so you do not accidentally reverse a side panel. Apply glue to the plywood edges, clamp the front and back between the sides, and drive screws through the sides into the panel edges. Predrill near corners to prevent plywood blowout.
Check the box for square by measuring both diagonals. If the measurements differ by more than 1/8 inch, push the longer diagonal inward before the glue sets. A crooked box will make the lid bind later. Attach the legs flush with the bottom corners, using glue and screws from inside the box. Keep the legs at least 1 inch above the floor if you want to sweep beneath the bench.
Install a pair of 1-by-2 cleats inside the front and back panels, about 1 inch below the top edge. Add end cleats as well. These support the seat frame and stop the plywood walls from flexing. Do not glue the lid supports to the lid itself; the lid needs to remain removable during fitting and finishing.
Make the Seat Frame and Lid
Assemble the seat frame on a flat surface. Pocket screws or screws from the inside keep the outside faces clean. Test-fit the frame on the box before attaching it. It should overhang the front and sides by about 3/4 inch, with the back edge positioned for the hinge you selected.
For a solid-board lid, arrange the boards so the growth-ring direction alternates. Apply glue only to the long edges, clamp across the joint, and let it dry overnight. Do not glue the boards to the plywood carcass. Sand the lid flat, then ease every exposed edge with 120-grit sandpaper. A sharp square edge chips quickly in an entryway.
Attach the seat frame to the internal cleats with screws from below. Drill oversized clearance holes through the cleats if you are fastening into solid wood. This allows the top to expand and contract across its width rather than splitting.
Install the Hinge and Safety Hardware
Center the hinge along the back edge and use a straightedge to keep it aligned. Predrill all screw holes. Mount the hinge to the box first, then support the lid in its closed position while attaching the other leaf. Test the opening before tightening every screw.
A lid support is important: an unsupported seat can fall on fingers or slam against the back wall. Choose a support rated for a lid of this size, and install it according to its opening-angle instructions. Leave at least 1/4 inch of clearance around the lid hardware. If children will use the bench, a soft-close toy-box hinge is worth the extra cost. The cheaper option is acceptable for an adult-only entryway if the lid support is sturdy and properly adjusted.
Sand and Finish
Fill screw holes and sand from 120 through 180 grit. Do not skip the first pass: finish cannot hide milling marks or uneven joints. Vacuum the dust, then wipe the bench with a slightly damp cloth and let it dry.
For a painted bench, use a bonding primer followed by two coats of durable enamel. For visible wood, a water-based polyurethane dries faster and yellows less than oil-based finish, while oil-based finish gives pine a warmer color and more working time. Apply finish to the underside and inside edges as well as the show surfaces. Uneven coating can cause panels to absorb moisture differently and warp.
Final Fit and Maintenance
Place the bench on its intended floor and check for rocking. Add felt pads or adjust the feet rather than sanding a leg at random. Put a thin line of weatherstripping around the lid opening if rattling is a problem, but avoid thick foam that increases hinge stress.
Keep the compartment ventilated by storing dry items rather than wet boots. Inspect the hinge screws after the first month and again each season. If the lid starts rubbing in summer, do not force it; check for a loose hinge, swollen wood, or a shifted support. Tightening hardware and lightly sanding the contact point usually solves the problem without rebuilding the bench.