What's inside
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Nested wooden storage trays are a useful weekend project because one build produces several trays that stack neatly when empty and separate into working containers when needed. They can hold tools, craft supplies, pantry items, or paperwork. The key is controlling the outside dimensions and keeping the tray walls thin enough that the smaller trays actually fit inside the larger ones.
Contents
Plan the Set Before Cutting
For a practical three-tray set, use 1/2-inch plywood or solid boards for the bottoms and 1/4-inch plywood for the sides. A good finished size for the largest tray is 16 inches long by 10 inches wide by 3 inches high. Reduce each smaller tray by 1 1/2 inches in length and width:
| Tray | Finished outside size | Useful purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Large | 16 x 10 x 3 inches | Hand tools, bottles, larger supplies |
| Medium | 14 1/2 x 8 1/2 x 3 inches | Fasteners, small tools, craft materials |
| Small | 13 x 7 x 3 inches | Bits, pencils, hardware, desk items |
This 1 1/2-inch reduction leaves roughly 3/4 inch of clearance on each side when the walls are 1/4 inch thick. That is enough room for saw variation and a finish coat. If you use thicker sides, increase the size difference or test the fit before cutting the final pieces.
Choose the wood based on where the trays will live. Cabinet-grade plywood is stable and economical. Clear pine looks warmer but can warp, dent, or show glue stains. For a shop tray, inexpensive sanded plywood is fine. For a living room or office, hardwood boards or better plywood justify the added cost.
Buy Materials and Prepare the Stock
You will need 1/2-inch plywood for three bottoms, 1/4-inch plywood or 1/4-inch stock for the walls, wood glue, 18-gauge brads or small finishing nails, and a finish. A 1/4-inch sanded plywood is a convenient choice for the tray sides. Buy a panel large enough to allow clean, square cuts rather than trying to use every last scrap.
A table saw makes repeatable strips easiest, but a circular saw with a straightedge works. You also need a square, tape measure, clamps, sandpaper from 120 through 220 grit, and a drill with a small bit. A set of parallel clamps is helpful but not essential; inexpensive bar clamps work if you use scrap cauls to spread pressure.
Cut the three bottoms to the finished outside length and width minus twice the wall thickness. With 1/4-inch walls, the bottom sizes are approximately 15 1/2 x 9 1/2 inches, 14 x 8 inches, and 12 1/2 x 6 1/2 inches. Cut the long and short walls to 3 inches wide. The long walls should match the bottom length. The short walls fit between the long walls, so their length is the bottom width minus 1/2 inch.
Cut, Label, and Dry-Fit Every Part
Make a cutting list on masking tape and label each part immediately. The most common failure in this project is mixing parts from different trays. Also mark the inside face of each wall. Plywood edges can look similar but vary enough to create uneven corners.
Cut one complete tray before cutting all the rest. Place the walls around its bottom without glue and check that the corners close. Measure both diagonals of the rectangle. If they differ by more than 1/16 inch, adjust the cuts or clamp the assembly square. A tray that is slightly out of square may still work alone but can jam when nested.
Test the nesting with unfinished parts. Put the medium bottom inside the large tray and check for at least 1/8 inch of free movement on both length and width. Then add the walls loosely. If the fit is tight, do not rely on sanding to solve a major error. Trim the offending piece on the saw.
Assemble One Tray at a Time
Apply a thin glue line to the bottom edge of each wall. Too much glue squeezes onto the inside and reduces usable space. Position the long walls first, flush with the bottom edges, then fit the short walls between them. Clamp the rectangle and check it with a square before driving brads.
Use one brad every 4 to 5 inches, keeping fasteners at least 3/8 inch from the plywood edges. Pre-drill near the corners if using nails by hand; thin plywood splits easily. If you use brads, test on scrap first. A brad that exits through the side is difficult to hide and can scratch whatever the tray holds.
Wipe glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth, but do not flood the plywood edge. Leave the tray clamped for at least 30 minutes and avoid heavy handling for several hours. Build the other two trays using the first one as a size reference, not as a substitute for measuring.
Add Handles, Feet, or Dividers
A shallow finger notch makes a nested tray easier to lift. Mark a centered 3-inch-wide opening on each short end and cut it with a jigsaw, coping saw, or router. Keep at least 1 inch of material at each corner. Round the cut edges thoroughly because sharp plywood corners are uncomfortable and chip quickly.
For a tray that will sit on a workbench, add four small rubber feet to the largest tray. They stop sliding and create clearance for fingers. Feet are unnecessary for desk or shelf use and can reduce nesting depth, so install them only after confirming the stack still fits. Removable dividers made from 1/4-inch scraps are more versatile than permanently glued compartments.
Sand and Finish for the Intended Use
Sand the outside surfaces with 120 grit, then 180 or 220 grit. Ease every exposed corner with two or three passes of the sandpaper. Do not aggressively sand the inside dimensions; removing too much material can make the walls thin and uneven.
For shop storage, two coats of water-based polyurethane dry quickly and clean up with water. For a natural, low-build finish, water-based polyurethane is a sensible choice because it adds little color and resists occasional spills. Paste wax feels smooth but offers limited protection and needs renewal. If the trays will hold food, use a finish specifically labeled for food-contact surfaces and avoid storing wet food directly in them.
Check the Finished Stack
After the finish cures, nest the trays slowly. A tacky finish can make the parts stick together and pull up the coating. Check that each tray lifts without prying and that no brad points or rough edges remain. If the fit is slightly tight, sand the outside of the smaller tray in the contact areas, then apply another thin coat of finish to those exposed fibers.
Keep the trays nested for storage, but do not force them together when loaded. The bottoms are the most likely parts to sag, especially with heavy tools. If you need more capacity, build deeper walls or use 3/4-inch bottoms rather than simply making the trays wider.