What's inside
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A wooden pencil holder with removable cups is a useful weekend project for a desk, workshop, or child’s homework area. The fixed outer box keeps the cups from spreading across the work surface, while removable inserts make it easy to carry pencils, markers, screws, or paintbrushes to another room. This plan uses common tools, simple joinery, and three small cups that lift out individually.
Contents
Project overview and skill level
This is a beginner-friendly project with a few accuracy-sensitive steps. You will cut a shallow box, drill three cup openings, and make removable wooden cups to fit those openings. Allow four to six hours, including glue and finish drying time. The project works well in fall or winter when indoor shop time is more practical, but it can be built outdoors in mild weather if the wood stays dry.
| Choice | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Pine or poplar | Low cost, painted holders | Soft and dents easily |
| Oak or maple | Clear finish and heavier use | Costs more and takes longer to sand |
| Wooden cups | A cohesive all-wood project | More turning, routing, or careful assembly |
| Metal or plastic cups | Fast, washable inserts | Less visual consistency with the box |
Materials and tools
Use 1/2-inch-thick boards for the box and 1/4-inch plywood for the bottom. A finished holder measuring about 12 inches long, 4 1/2 inches wide, and 3 inches tall will accept three cups roughly 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Adjust the spacing if your cups differ.
You will need two side pieces at 12 by 3 inches, two end pieces at 3 1/2 by 3 inches, a bottom at 11 by 3 1/2 inches, and a top rail or divider strip about 12 by 1/2 by 1/2 inch. Add three cups, wood glue, 1 1/4-inch brad nails or pin nails, and a finish. For a painted project, inexpensive pine is adequate. For a clear finish, buy straight-grained hardwood from a supplier or choose a small hardwood project board.
Basic tools include a tape measure, square, pencil, saw, drill, clamps, sandpaper, and a 3 1/2-inch hole saw or jigsaw. A random-orbit sander saves time but is not essential. If you do not own a hole saw, a jigsaw with a fine wood blade works, though the openings may need more hand sanding.
Step 1: Cut and mark the box parts
Cut the two long sides to 12 by 3 inches. Cut the end pieces to 3 1/2 by 3 inches so they fit between the sides. Cut the bottom to 11 by 3 1/2 inches; this allows it to sit inside the box rather than underneath it.
Mark the centerline of each cup opening on the bottom panel before assembly. For three 3 1/2-inch openings, place the centers about 1 3/4 inches from each end and 6 inches apart. Measure the actual outside diameter of your cups first. The openings should be 1/8 inch wider than the cup body, not the rim. That clearance lets the cups lift out without binding.
Step 2: Assemble the outer holder
Dry-fit the sides, ends, and bottom on a flat surface. Check that the bottom sits evenly and that the box is square by measuring both diagonals. If the diagonal measurements differ by more than 1/8 inch, adjust the parts before gluing.
Apply a thin glue line to the end grain and clamp the four walls around the bottom. Reinforce the corners with brad nails if desired. Avoid flooding the joints with glue; squeeze-out inside the box can interfere with the removable cups. After the box cures, sand the outside starting with 120-grit paper and finish with 180 grit.
Step 3: Cut the cup openings
Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole at each marked center. If using a hole saw, clamp the bottom panel to scrap wood and cut from the finished side until the pilot bit passes through. Then finish from the underside. This reduces tear-out around the openings.
If using a jigsaw, drill a starter hole inside each circle and cut slowly. Do not force the blade around tight curves. Test each opening with a cup. If it sticks, sand the edge evenly rather than enlarging one side. A gap larger than about 1/4 inch will look sloppy and may let a cup wobble.
Step 4: Make or select the removable cups
The simplest option is to use three matching containers sized to the openings. Metal cans with their sharp edges removed, small plastic tubs, or ready-made wooden cups all work. A set of small wooden craft cups is convenient if you want to skip turning them yourself. The cheaper plastic option is fine for paint, children’s markers, or a workshop where spills are likely.
For homemade plywood cups, cut three circular bases about 3 inches across and glue thin wood strips around each base. Keep the outside diameter below the hole diameter by 1/8 inch. Sand the upper edges thoroughly. Do not make the cups too tall: about 4 inches is practical, while taller cups can tip when partly filled.
Step 5: Add a simple retainer
Removable cups should lift out, but they should not slide around when the holder is moved. Glue a 1/2-inch-square rail along the inside of the back wall, about 1/2 inch above the bottom. This rail gives the cups a second contact point and limits sideways movement.
For a tighter fit, glue short hardwood blocks between the openings. Leave at least 1/16 inch of clearance around each cup. A completely tight fit is a failure mode: seasonal wood movement, finish buildup, or a slightly oval cup can make removal difficult.
Step 6: Sand, finish, and test
Break every sharp corner with 180-grit sandpaper, then use 220 grit on visible surfaces. Vacuum the dust rather than wiping it into the grain with a wet rag. Apply two thin coats of water-based polyurethane for a clear, quick-drying finish. Lightly sand with 220 grit between coats. For a painted holder, use primer first, especially on pine end grain.
Before the final coat dries, test all three cups again. Fill them with pencils and markers, lift the entire holder by its sides, and check for flexing or rattling. If a cup binds, sand only the high spot. Add felt dots under the box if the holder will sit on a finished desk. A pack of self-adhesive felt pads is inexpensive and prevents scratches.
Adjustments for different uses
For a child’s desk, round the corners generously and use water-based paint. For a workshop, make the box 14 inches long and use wider cups for drill bits, pencils, and small rulers. If the holder will live in a damp garage, avoid leaving raw pine exposed; seal all faces and especially the end grain. In a heated winter shop, let the lumber acclimate indoors for several days before cutting. That small delay reduces surprises from shrinking joints and warped panels.