What's inside
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This nightstand is sized for a typical bedside setup: about 24 inches tall, 20 inches wide, and 16 inches deep. It has one shallow drawer for small items and an open shelf for books or a basket. The plan uses plywood for the case and solid wood for the legs, drawer front, and edging. That keeps the project stable without requiring wide boards or complicated joinery.
Contents
Dimensions and materials
Finished dimensions are approximately 24 inches high by 20 inches wide by 16 inches deep. The drawer opening is 16 inches wide and about 4 inches high; the shelf sits roughly 6 inches above the floor. Adjust the overall height to suit your bed, but keep the nightstand top level with the mattress or within a few inches of it.
Use 3/4-inch plywood for the top, sides, and shelf, and 1/4-inch plywood for the back. A half sheet of 3/4-inch plywood is usually enough if you plan the cuts before buying. Choose cabinet-grade plywood if the edges will be visible; inexpensive construction plywood can have voids that show when cut. For solid parts, pine is affordable and easy to work, while poplar takes paint well. A cabinet-grade plywood sheet is a worthwhile upgrade when the case will be stained rather than painted.
Gather wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, 1-inch brad nails, sandpaper in 120- and 180-grit, and a finish. For a straightforward drawer, use 12-inch side-mount slides. A 12-inch pair of drawer slides is convenient, but wooden runners cost less and avoid visible metal hardware if you are comfortable fitting them.
Tools and hardware choices
| Choice | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Side-mount slides | Predictable opening and easy installation | Need parallel mounting surfaces and about 1/2 inch of clearance per side |
| Wooden runners | Lower cost and a traditional look | Require careful fitting; wood movement or swelling can make the drawer stick |
| Brad nails with glue | Holding parts while assembling a painted case | Nails alone are not a strong structural joint |
| Screws with glue | A sturdy case assembled with basic tools | Screw heads need plugs or filler if visible |
A circular saw and straightedge are enough to break down plywood; a table saw is faster but not essential. A drill, square, clamps, tape measure, and level help keep the case aligned. A pair of 24-inch bar clamps is useful, though you can assemble this project with shorter clamps and a careful dry fit.
Cut list
Cut two sides at 22 1/2 by 15 inches, one top at 20 by 16 inches, and one shelf at 18 1/2 by 15 inches from 3/4-inch plywood. The top overhangs the sides by 3/4 inch at each end. Cut the back to 18 1/2 by 22 1/2 inches from 1/4-inch plywood. Cut four legs from 1 1/2-by-1 1/2-inch stock, each 23 1/4 inches long. These legs sit beneath the top, making the finished height about 24 inches including the 3/4-inch top.
Before cutting, check the actual plywood thickness. A nominal 3/4-inch sheet may measure less, which can affect the width of the drawer opening. Mark each part and keep paired cuts together so the sides match. Wear eye and hearing protection, and support the plywood on a stable surface to prevent pinching the saw blade.
Assemble the case
Mark the shelf height 6 inches above the bottom of each side. Apply glue to the shelf ends, clamp it between the sides, and check that the case is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. The two diagonal measurements should be within about 1/8 inch. Drive two or three screws through each side into the shelf, keeping them centered in the plywood edge to reduce splitting.
Attach the back with glue and 1-inch brad nails, or small screws if you do not have a nailer. The back is more than a cover: it helps keep the case square. Confirm the diagonals again before fastening all four edges. Add the legs at the corners, flush with the side and back faces. Glue and screw through the case sides into the legs, then secure the top with screws from underneath or through the case into the top. Predrill near plywood edges; forcing screws into an unpiloted edge can split veneers or push the case out of alignment.
Build and fit the drawer
Measure the drawer opening after the case is assembled rather than relying only on the cut list. For 1/2-inch side-mount slides, make the drawer box about 1 inch narrower than the opening. If the opening is 16 inches wide, a 15-inch-wide box leaves roughly 1/2 inch per side for the slides. Make the box about 12 inches deep to match the slides, with 1/2-inch plywood sides, front, and back, and a 1/4-inch bottom captured in a shallow groove or fastened underneath.
Dry-fit the slides according to their instructions before attaching the drawer front. Mount the cabinet members level and parallel; even a small tilt can make the drawer drift open or bind near the end of its travel. Center the solid-wood front over the opening, leaving an even gap of about 1/8 inch on each side and along the top. Use double-sided tape or temporary screws from inside the box to hold it in position, then fasten it permanently.
Sand, finish, and check the build
Fill visible screw holes, ease sharp edges with 120-grit sandpaper, then sand the surfaces with 180-grit. Do not round over the drawer front so much that its reveal becomes uneven. Remove dust before finishing. Paint is forgiving on mixed plywood and solid-wood parts; for a clear finish, test stain on an offcut because plywood veneers and solid pine often absorb color differently. Apply thin coats and follow the product’s drying instructions. Keep the drawer out until the finish has cured enough that the slides do not pick up tacky residue.
Set the nightstand on a flat floor and check for rocking. If a leg is short, level it with a thin furniture pad rather than sanding several legs at random. Load the shelf and drawer gradually, and anchor the unit to the wall if it could be pulled over by a child or pet. The open shelf keeps frequently used books accessible, while the single drawer hides small items without adding the extra alignment work and cost of a second drawer.