What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A poolside towel rack has one job: keep wet towels off the deck, chairs, and ground. This simple version uses wide horizontal crosspieces that hold several towels without the crowding you get from dowel pegs. It is a good beginner-to-intermediate project and can be built in an afternoon, then left to weather or protected with exterior finish.
The rack stands about 42 inches tall, 30 inches wide, and 6 inches deep. The wide boards are easy to grab with wet hands, and the open spacing allows towels to dry instead of staying bunched together.
Contents
Materials and Tools
Use cedar, redwood, or treated lumber rated for exterior use. Cedar is easier to cut and looks better without paint, while pressure-treated pine costs less but is usually wetter, heavier, and more prone to twisting as it dries. Avoid ordinary untreated pine unless the rack will be kept under a roof and away from splash.
| Material | Advantages | Drawbacks | Best choice when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cedar | Light, rot-resistant, easy to work | Costs more; can split near screw holes | You want a clean-looking rack that is easy to move |
| Pressure-treated pine | Cheapest and widely available | Heavy, often damp, may warp or shrink | Budget matters more than appearance |
| Redwood | Stable and naturally decay-resistant | Usually the most expensive option | You want premium outdoor lumber |
Buy two 8-foot 2x4s for the side rails and feet, one 8-foot 1×8 for the crosspieces, and a small amount of 1×2 stock for rear supports. You will also need exterior-rated screws, exterior wood glue, sandpaper, a drill, a countersink bit, a saw, a tape measure, and a square. A basic exterior deck screw is suitable; stainless steel is preferable near saltwater or chlorinated splash.
Cut List and Layout
Cut the following pieces:
- Two side rails, 42 inches long, from 2×4 lumber
- Two feet, 30 inches long, from 2×4 lumber
- Four crosspieces, 30 inches long, from 1×8 lumber
- Two rear braces, 18 inches long, from 1×2 lumber
A nominal 1×8 is actually about 3/4 inch thick and 7 1/4 inches wide. Use four crosspieces with a 3-inch gap between them. This gives a broad drying surface while keeping the finished rack compact. If your towels are especially large, use five crosspieces and reduce the gaps to about 2 inches, but the rack will collect more wind and weigh more.
Mark the inside faces of both side rails before assembly. Starting 5 inches above the bottom, mark the lower crosspiece. Mark the remaining crosspieces at 16, 27, and 38 inches. These measurements refer to the top edge of each board. Check that the upper board does not extend above the rail ends.
Build the Rack
Begin by rounding or easing every exposed corner with sandpaper. A small 1/8-inch roundover is enough. Sharp corners are uncomfortable against bare legs and tend to splinter after repeated wetting and drying.
Lay the two side rails parallel on a flat surface, with their inside faces 30 inches apart. Position the first crosspiece between them according to your marks. Apply a thin bead of exterior wood glue to each end, then drive two 2 1/2-inch screws through each side rail into the crosspiece. Drill pilot holes first, especially in cedar, because two screws close together can split the end grain.
Install the other three crosspieces, checking each one with a square. Do not rely on the edge of a warped board for alignment. Measure diagonally from the upper left corner to the lower right, then reverse the measurement. Adjust the frame until both diagonal measurements match within 1/8 inch.
Turn the assembly face down and add one 18-inch rear brace across the upper half and one across the lower half. Fasten the braces between the rails with 1 1/4-inch exterior screws. These braces keep the rails from spreading and make the rack much less likely to rack sideways when someone pulls off a towel.
Center each 30-inch foot beneath the side rails, extending 9 inches to either side. Attach each foot with two 3-inch screws driven from the underside. Predrill through the foot and into the rail. If the rack will sit on a smooth concrete deck, add rubber or outdoor furniture feet to reduce sliding and prevent the bottom grain from sitting in standing water.
Sand and Finish for Poolside Use
Sand the entire rack with 80-grit paper, then finish with 120-grit. Do not polish exterior wood too finely; a slightly open surface accepts finish better and is less slippery when wet. Pay particular attention to end grain, screw holes, and the underside of the feet.
For the simplest maintenance, leave cedar or redwood unfinished and let it turn gray. It will still need periodic inspection, and the color change is uneven in shaded areas. A penetrating exterior stain offers better color control than paint and is less likely to peel. If you choose paint, use an exterior primer followed by two exterior coats.
A penetrating exterior wood stain is worthwhile if the rack gets daily sun. Apply it to all faces before final assembly when possible, especially the end grain. Avoid film-forming finishes on the crosspieces unless you are prepared to sand and recoat them; wet towels and standing water can cause clear coatings to peel.
Placement and Maintenance
Set the rack at least 12 inches from the pool edge so splashing does not keep the feet wet. A windy yard may require a wider base or a small anchoring plate screwed to the deck. Never drill into a concrete deck without confirming that doing so is allowed and that no plumbing or electrical lines are below it.
Inspect the rack at the start and end of each swimming season. Tighten loose screws, sand any raised fibers, and check the feet for soft spots. Replace a crosspiece if a crack extends more than halfway through its width. The cheaper pressure-treated version is perfectly serviceable, but let newly treated lumber dry according to the lumber supplier’s guidance before staining; coating it too soon traps moisture and encourages peeling.
For a larger family, build a second rack rather than making this one excessively wide. A 30-inch span stays manageable and stable, while a rack wider than 36 inches needs heavier rails or a center support to prevent the crosspieces from sagging.