What's inside
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This small rack holds a practical armload of split firewood and has a curved top handle for carrying it from the woodpile to the hearth. The open sides keep the design simple, while two runners lift the wood off the ground. Build it from straight, dry stock; the handle curve is decorative and comfortable, but the joints below it do the work.
Contents
Size and design
The finished rack is about 18 inches wide, 14 inches deep, and 18 inches tall, including the handle. It suits short logs roughly 12 to 16 inches long. Reduce the width if your wood is shorter, or increase it for longer splits, but keep the bottom rails square so the rack sits flat.
This is a light-duty carrier, not a cart. A full load of dense hardwood can weigh 40 pounds or more, so use sound lumber and carry it close to your body. If you routinely move heavier loads, choose a wider base and stronger joinery rather than relying on thicker screws alone.
Materials and tools
Use untreated, dry 1-by-2-inch lumber for the frame and 3/4-inch plywood for the handle. Cedar, pine, or fir will work indoors; avoid treated lumber around a fireplace. Allow for one 8-foot 1-by-2 and a small plywood offcut. You will also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, sandpaper, and a finish if desired.
A handsaw, drill, tape measure, square, and clamps are enough. A jigsaw makes the curved handle easier to cut, but a coping saw works for a small plywood blank. A set of small woodworking clamps is useful for holding the frame square during assembly; if you already have a way to clamp or brace the parts, there is no need to buy them for this project.
Cut list
| Part | Quantity | Finished size |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom runners | 2 | 14 inches |
| Long bottom rails | 2 | 16 inches |
| Uprights | 4 | 12 inches |
| Top side rails | 2 | 16 inches |
| Handle blank | 1 | About 16 by 4 inches, 3/4-inch plywood |
The listed frame dimensions produce an outside width near 18 inches when the side rails overlap the ends of the uprights. Check your actual lumber: “1-by-2” stock is commonly about 3/4 by 1 1/2 inches, and small size differences affect the final width.
Shape the curved handle
Draw a 16-by-4-inch rectangle on the plywood. Mark a centered hand opening about 5 inches long and 1 1/4 inches wide, with rounded ends. Leave at least 1 inch of wood around the opening and 1 1/4 inches at each end for the mounting screws. Above the opening, draw a shallow arch rising about 1 1/2 inches at the center. This creates the carrying curve without making the handle tall or fragile.
Drill a starter hole inside the hand opening, then cut the opening and outside profile. Smooth the edges thoroughly; sharp plywood corners can catch fingers and splinter. For a more finished grip, round the opening edges with sandpaper or a small file. A jigsaw speeds up the curves, but it is optional—the handle is small enough to cut by hand with care.
Assemble the frame
Cut the frame pieces square and sand the cut ends. Lay the two runners parallel, 16 inches apart outside-to-outside. Set the two long bottom rails across them, one near each end, so they form a shallow rectangular base. Apply glue at each crossing, drill pilot holes, and drive two 1 1/4-inch screws through each rail into each runner. Pilot holes matter here: screws near the ends of narrow stock can split it.
Stand one upright at each corner, flush with the outside edges of the base. Glue and screw each upright into a runner, using two pilot-drilled screws per post. Check that the posts are vertical and the base is not twisted before tightening everything. Add the top side rails between the front and rear posts, keeping their tops level and leaving the ends flush. Use glue and two screws at each rail end.
For a cleaner build, you can use pocket holes instead of visible face screws. That requires a pocket-hole jig and does not make a poorly fitted joint stronger by itself. For a simple utility rack, pilot-drilled screws and glue are cheaper and adequate if the lumber is straight and the joints fit snugly.
Attach and finish
Center the handle across the top rails, with its ends resting on the rails. Drill pilot holes through the handle ends and fasten it with two screws per side. Keep the hand opening clear of screw heads. Before loading the rack, lift it a few inches and check for movement at the posts and handle; add screws or repair any loose joint before use.
Sand the frame to remove splinters, especially around the handle and the top edges. A bare rack is fine for dry indoor storage. If you want easier cleaning, apply a water-based clear finish and let it cure fully before bringing the rack near a fire. Do not use the rack to store damp wood against a wall: airflow helps the splits dry, and a packed rack can trap moisture.
Handle and frame options
| Choice | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Curved plywood handle | Comfortable grip with a simple cutout | Needs smooth edges and careful screw placement |
| Straight wood crossbar | Lowest cost and easiest construction | Less finger clearance when the rack is loaded |
| Thicker hardwood frame | Frequent carrying or heavier splits | Costs more and adds weight |
The straight crossbar is a reasonable budget choice if the rack will stay near the hearth and only be moved occasionally. For repeated trips, the curved opening is worth the extra shaping time. If the rack rocks, check the runner lengths and floor contact first; sanding a small high spot is safer than forcing the frame flat with a heavy load.