What's inside
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A small wooden firewood tote is a useful weekend project: it carries a manageable load, keeps bark and dirt off the floor, and gives you a place to stack a few hours’ worth of wood beside the stove. This design uses two wooden side panels, a bottom board, front and back rails, and round dowels as handles. It is sized for short indoor trips rather than hauling a full load from the woodshed.
Contents
Size and design choices
The finished tote is approximately 20 inches long, 14 inches wide, and 14 inches high. That is large enough for several split logs but small enough to carry without twisting your back. The open sides reduce weight and let wet wood breathe. The bottom is raised slightly by runners, so the tote does not sit directly in water or melting snow.
| Material choice | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4-inch plywood | Stable, inexpensive, easy to cut | Edges need sealing; lower-grade sheets can splinter |
| 3/4-inch solid pine | Simple to work with and attractive | Can split near screws and may cup with moisture |
| Hardwood | More dent-resistant and durable | Heavier and usually unnecessary for indoor firewood |
For most builders, 3/4-inch exterior-grade plywood is the sensible choice. Cabinet-grade plywood is cleaner but not required. Avoid thin underlayment or 1/2-inch plywood; a loaded tote can weigh 35 to 50 pounds, and the bottom or handle joints may flex under that load.
Materials and tools
You will need one 24-by-48-inch sheet of 3/4-inch plywood, two 1-inch hardwood dowels about 24 inches long, and two 1-by-2-inch boards for the front and back rails. Add two 1-by-2-inch runners for the underside. Use 1-1/4-inch exterior-rated screws, wood glue, 120- and 180-grit sandpaper, and a durable paint, spar varnish, or exterior polyurethane.
Choose straight, knot-free dowel stock. A 1-inch dowel is easier to grip than a thinner handle and is strong enough for this tote when supported at both ends. A 1-inch hardwood dowel is a better choice than a softwood closet pole, which can dent and split around the screws.
Basic tools include a tape measure, pencil, square, circular saw or table saw, drill, 1-inch Forstner or spade bit, countersink bit, clamps, and a random-orbit sander. A jigsaw is useful for rounding the top corners, but it is optional.
Cut list
Cut the following parts:
- Two side panels: 14 by 14 inches
- One bottom: 18-1/2 by 12-1/2 inches
- Two front and back rails: 18-1/2 by 4 inches
- Two underside runners: 18-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches
- Two dowel handles: 22 inches long
The bottom fits between the side panels, while the rails sit across the outside faces of the sides. If your plywood is slightly under 3/4 inch thick, measure the actual thickness before cutting the bottom. A tight, forced fit can bow the side panels.
Shape and prepare the side panels
Mark the center of each side panel 2-1/2 inches down from the top edge and 3-1/2 inches in from the front and back edges. These marks are the centers of the handle holes. Drill the holes with a 1-inch bit. Clamp a scrap board behind the panel to reduce splintering as the bit exits.
Leave at least 2 inches of wood above each hole and at least 2-1/2 inches around the front and back edges. That surrounding material is what keeps the handles from pulling through. Round the upper front and rear corners if desired, using a can or compass to mark matching curves. Sand all edges, especially the handle openings.
Assemble the tote
Start by attaching the runners to the underside of the bottom. Center them from front to back and set them about 2 inches in from each side edge. Apply glue, clamp the runners, and drive screws from inside the bottom so the screw heads are not exposed underneath. Drill pilot holes first; plywood edges split easily.
Stand the two side panels on their edges and position the bottom between them. The bottom should be flush with the lower edges of the side panels. Apply glue to the mating edges, clamp the assembly, and drive three evenly spaced screws through each side into the bottom. Use a square before tightening the screws.
Fit the front and back rails across the outside faces of the side panels, with their lower edges flush with the bottom edge of the side panels. Glue and screw each rail to both side panels. Two screws at each end are enough, but offset them vertically by about 3/4 inch to reduce the chance of splitting.
Let the glue cure according to its label before installing the dowels. Push a dowel through each pair of side-panel holes. It should turn or slide with firm hand pressure, not require hammering. If a hole is tight, sand the dowel lightly or enlarge the hole by a small amount. Do not force it, because the plywood can delaminate around the opening.
Center each dowel so an equal amount extends beyond both sides. Secure it from the outside with one 1-1/4-inch screw through each side panel into the dowel. Drill a pilot hole through the plywood first. For a cleaner appearance, use wood plugs over the screw heads, or simply leave the screws visible for easier future inspection.
Sand and finish
Break every sharp edge with 120-grit sandpaper, then sand the exposed faces with 180 grit. Pay extra attention to the dowel holes and the top edges of the rails. A sharp plywood corner can catch clothing or scrape your hand while carrying the tote.
For a tote kept indoors and away from standing moisture, inexpensive porch paint or water-based polyurethane is sufficient. If you regularly carry wet logs, use exterior wood paint or spar varnish and coat the end grain carefully. Finish all faces, including the underside and inside of the handle holes. Bare end grain absorbs water quickly and is a common cause of swelling.
Test the finished carrier
Before carrying firewood, load the tote with 10 pounds and lift it by both handles. Check for movement, cracking, or screws pulling out. Increase the load gradually to about 35 pounds, then inspect the handle joints again. If the side panels flex, add a second screw at each dowel end or install small triangular blocks beneath the rails.
Do not leave the tote beside a stove where radiant heat can dry, scorch, or ignite the finish. Keep it several feet from the firebox and empty loose bark into a metal ash or debris container. The cheaper plywood version is perfectly adequate for a dry indoor rack and occasional use; spend more on hardwood only if the tote will live outdoors, carry heavy loads daily, or need to match finished furniture.