What's inside
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This bench combines a sturdy seat with a pull-out shoe drawer beneath it. It suits an entryway where shoes need to be contained but still easy to reach. The drawer is a shallow tray, not a full cabinet: that keeps the build manageable and leaves room for shoes to dry. Plan on a weekend for the build, plus drying time for glue and finish.
Contents
Dimensions and layout
The plan below makes a bench 36 inches wide, 18 inches high, and 14 inches deep. The seat is ¾-inch plywood or solid boards. A 12-inch-deep drawer rides on side-mounted slides, leaving a 2-inch overhang at the front and clearance at the back. Adjust the width to suit your entryway, but check that the drawer slides you buy match the finished inside width of the bench.
Use the bench for sitting and storing a few pairs of shoes, not as a step stool. If adults will sit on it regularly, build the carcass from ¾-inch plywood and use a well-supported seat. A thin back panel alone will not make a weak frame strong.
Materials and tools
You’ll need one ¾-inch plywood sheet, cut into two 17¼-by-14-inch sides, a 34½-by-14-inch bottom, and a 36-by-14-inch seat. Add two 34½-by-3-inch front and back rails, plus ½-inch plywood for the drawer bottom and sides. Confirm measurements against your chosen joinery and actual plywood thickness before cutting; nominal ¾-inch plywood is often slightly thinner.
Also gather wood glue, 1¼-inch screws, sandpaper, a square, clamps, and a finish. A drill-driver, circular saw with a straightedge, and a jigsaw or handsaw are enough for a basic build. A table saw makes repeat cuts easier, but it isn’t essential. For a clean drawer action, use 12-inch side-mount drawer slides. Choose slides rated for at least 50 pounds; heavier-duty slides cost more but are worthwhile if the drawer will hold dense boots or the bench will see frequent use.
Choose the drawer hardware
Slide requirements vary, so buy the hardware before sizing the drawer. Measure the distance between the installed slides and follow the manufacturer’s required clearance. Many side-mount slides need about ½ inch per side, but don’t assume that; a drawer built too wide will bind, while one too narrow can wobble or disengage.
| Option | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Side-mount slides | Smooth travel, positive support, and easy drawer removal on many models | Require accurate width and level installation; visible hardware may show at the sides |
| Wood runners | Inexpensive and simple to make from scrap | Can swell or stick with seasonal humidity; need waxing or adjustment |
Wood runners are fine for a budget build or a workshop bench. For an entryway drawer that gets opened daily, slides are usually the less frustrating choice.
Build the bench frame
Cut the plywood parts square and sand the cut edges lightly. Mark the inside faces of both sides, then fasten the bottom panel between them. Set the bottom about 2 inches above the floor to leave space for a toe-kick, or place it lower if you want more drawer height. Apply glue along each joint, clamp the assembly square, and drill pilot holes before driving screws to reduce splitting and plywood tear-out.
Fit the front and back rails between the sides, flush with the top edges. These rails support the seat and stiffen the box. Check both diagonals: if they differ, the frame is racked, and the drawer may never run straight. Correct the frame before the glue sets. Attach the seat with screws driven from inside the frame so the top stays clean. Leave a slight front overhang if you want a more comfortable edge to grip while sitting.
For a more finished look, cover exposed plywood edges with iron-on veneer or solid-wood edging. Veneer is quicker; solid edging stands up better to bumps but takes more fitting and sanding.
Make and fit the drawer
Build a shallow tray to fit the slide manufacturer’s specified width. A practical starting size is about 32 inches wide, 11½ inches deep, and 4 inches tall, but calculate the final width from the actual opening and hardware rather than copying those numbers blindly. Use ½-inch plywood for the sides and a ¼-inch or ½-inch bottom set into a groove or screwed to the underside. A thin bottom keeps the drawer light; use thicker material if it will carry heavy shoes.
Glue and screw the drawer corners, keeping the box square. Install the slides at matching heights on both sides of the bench and drawer. Use a level or a straightedge, and test the drawer before fitting its face. If it binds, check first for a racked bench, slides at different heights, or a drawer that is too wide. Don’t force it; that can bend the slides or loosen their screws.
Attach a drawer front after the tray runs smoothly. Leave an even gap of roughly ⅛ inch around the front, using temporary spacers to position it before fastening from inside the drawer. Add a simple pull or cut a finger recess. A pull is easier to grip with wet or cold hands; a recess avoids projecting hardware in a narrow hallway.
Sand, finish, and check
Sand the seat and exposed edges through 120- and then 180-grit paper. Ease sharp corners, especially on the seat front. Apply a durable clear finish or paint, following the label’s drying and recoat times. Entryway benches collect grit and damp shoes, so a wipeable finish is more practical than oil alone. Seal both sides of the seat and drawer face to reduce uneven moisture uptake, and let the finish cure before loading the drawer.
Set the bench on a flat floor and check for rocking. Add felt pads or level the feet if needed. Sit on the seat gently at first, then inspect the joints and screws. Keep shoes reasonably dry before storing them: a closed tray can trap moisture and odors. If the drawer will hold wet footwear, use a removable plastic boot tray or leave gaps for airflow instead of sealing the drawer tightly.