What's inside
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This small wooden cabinet is a useful weekend project for an entryway, home office, or workshop. The lift-up door is simpler than a hinged door and gives you a clean, uninterrupted front. It also works well for storing keys, charging cables, glasses, small tools, or other items you want nearby but out of sight.
The cabinet described here is approximately 18 inches wide, 10 inches high, and 6 inches deep. You can change the dimensions, but keep the door light. A heavy door can pull the cabinet out of square or overload the hinges.
Contents
Materials and Tools
Use 1/2-inch plywood for the cabinet box and 3/4-inch solid wood or plywood for the door. Furniture-grade plywood is easier to keep flat than construction plywood, especially during humid spring and summer weather. A clear pine board is a cheaper door option, but inspect it carefully for cup, twist, and loose knots.
| Material | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2-inch plywood | Cabinet sides, top, bottom, and back | Stable and economical, but edges need covering |
| 3/4-inch solid wood | Lift-up door | Looks good, but can move with humidity |
| 3/4-inch plywood | Lift-up door | Flat and stable, but edge layers are visible |
| Soft-close lid stay | Controls the opening door | Safer and smoother, but costs more than basic hinges |
You will also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch brad nails or screws, sandpaper from 120 to 220 grit, a drill, a square, clamps, and a finish. A small woodworking clamp set is useful if you do not already have clamps. For a simple build, a circular saw with a straightedge is enough; a table saw makes repeated cuts easier.
Cut List
For the finished size above, cut the following parts from 1/2-inch plywood:
- Two sides: 10 by 6 inches
- Top: 17 by 6 inches
- Bottom: 17 by 6 inches
- Back: 17 by 9 inches
Cut the door to 18 by 10 inches from 3/4-inch stock. The door overlaps the cabinet opening by about 1/2 inch on each side. If your plywood is not exactly 1/2 inch thick, measure the actual material before cutting the top and bottom. A small thickness difference changes the cabinet width.
Before assembly, check that both sides are exactly the same length. Unequal sides are a common cause of a door that sits crooked or refuses to close.
Build the Cabinet Box
Mark the inside faces of the side panels. Apply glue to the ends of the top and bottom pieces, then position them between the sides. Keep the front edges flush. Clamp the box and check both diagonals with a tape measure. If the diagonals differ by more than 1/8 inch, push the longer diagonal inward until the measurements match.
Secure the joints with 1 1/4-inch brad nails or screws. If using screws, drill pilot holes first; 1/2-inch plywood splits easily near its edges. Wipe away glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth before it dries.
Fit the back panel over the rear of the box. Check the diagonals again, then glue and fasten the back with brads or screws every 5 to 6 inches. The back is more than a cover: it locks the cabinet square. A cabinet with a weak or missing back will rack when mounted to a wall.
Prepare the Lift-Up Door
Cut the door slightly oversized if you have enough material, then trim it to final size after the box is assembled. Sand the front and edges to 180 or 220 grit. Ease every edge with a sanding block. Sharp plywood edges are uncomfortable to handle and chip more easily.
For a plain look, use the panel as cut. You can also add a 1-inch-wide wood strip around the front perimeter, but account for the added thickness when choosing hinges. A trim frame makes the door more decorative but adds weight and may require stronger hardware.
Apply finish to the door and cabinet before installing the hardware. This is especially important for a cabinet used in a kitchen, bathroom, or unheated porch. Wood absorbs moisture through unfinished edges, and seasonal movement can make a carefully fitted door bind.
Install Hinges and a Lid Stay
For this size cabinet, two small butt hinges or a continuous piano hinge will work. A piano hinge spreads the load along the edge and is forgiving if the door is slightly heavy. Butt hinges look cleaner but require more accurate positioning. A small piano hinge for a wooden cabinet is usually the easiest option for a first build.
Position the hinge along the top rear edge so the door opens upward and rests over the cabinet front. Pre-drill every screw hole. Do not drive screws directly into plywood without a pilot hole; the outer veneer can lift and the screw may strip.
Add a lid stay or friction stay inside one side of the cabinet. A basic chain is the cheapest choice, but it allows the door to drop and can mark the finish. A soft-close stay costs more but controls the final few inches and reduces the chance of pinched fingers. Choose a stay rated for a door at least as heavy as yours. For this project, a small soft-close cabinet lid stay is a worthwhile upgrade if children will use the cabinet.
Sand and Finish
Fill visible nail holes, then sand the cabinet lightly. Stop at 180 grit for paint and use 220 grit for clear finishes. Vacuum the dust rather than wiping aggressively with a wet rag, which can raise the grain.
Paint is the most forgiving finish and hides plywood edges after they are sealed with primer. For a natural finish, apply a sanding sealer or thinned first coat, sand lightly, and add two finish coats. Water-based polyurethane dries quickly and produces less odor for an indoor winter project. Oil-based finishes flow well but need more ventilation and drying time.
Mount and Test the Cabinet
Locate wall studs before mounting the cabinet. Drive at least two screws into studs through the back, using washers if the screw heads might pull through the plywood. If studs do not line up, use a plywood mounting cleat fastened to the studs, then screw the cabinet to the cleat.
Open and close the door several times before loading it. Look for rubbing at the sides, hinge screws that pull out, or a box that flexes when the door is opened. If the door binds only in damp weather, sand the rubbing edge lightly rather than removing a large amount of material. Leave roughly 1/16 inch of clearance around the door where possible.
Use the cheaper hardware when the cabinet is light and opened occasionally. Spend more on a lid stay when the door is heavy, mounted above a desk or counter, or likely to be used frequently. Those small decisions have more effect on long-term performance than an expensive finish.