What's inside
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A small wall cabinet is a useful first casework project: it needs a square box, a reliable wall mount and a door that stays open without slamming shut. This version has a 24-inch-wide by 18-inch-high by 8-inch-deep cabinet and a lift-up door supported by a pair of lid stays. Adjust the dimensions to fit your space, but check the stay’s opening angle and weight rating before cutting the door.
Contents
Materials and tools
Use 3/4-inch plywood for the sides, top, bottom and fixed back cleat. Cabinet-grade birch or maple plywood makes clean edges; sanded construction plywood costs less but may have voids and rougher faces. A 1/4-inch plywood back keeps the cabinet light, while a 3/4-inch back makes it stiffer but heavier. For a painted shop or laundry cabinet, the cheaper plywood is usually fine if you inspect it for flatness and fill the edges.
You’ll also need wood glue, 1-1/4-inch screws, edge banding or solid-wood edging, two lid stays, and a suitable wall fastener. A drill, circular saw with a guide or table saw, square, clamps and level cover the main work. A pair of cabinet lid stays is a practical choice; check whether the listing specifies left and right stays or a matched pair.
Choose the door support before building
Lift-up hardware is not interchangeable. Some stays hold a door in several positions; others simply limit its travel. A friction stay is inexpensive and adjustable, but may not hold a heavy door reliably. A gas strut lifts smoothly, though it must be sized to the door and often needs room for its mounting points.
| Support type | Good fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Friction lid stay | Light door, occasional use | May loosen or slip; inexpensive and simple |
| Mechanical cabinet stay | Small cabinet used regularly | Needs accurate placement; usually holds open positively |
| Gas strut | Heavier door needing assisted lift | Must be matched to door weight and geometry |
For this build, use a matched pair of mechanical stays rated for a door in the range you’re making. Door weight depends on its material and size, so weigh the finished panel rather than guessing. Follow the hardware maker’s mounting diagram; a few millimetres of misplaced hardware can prevent the door from closing flush. If the door is unusually heavy or wide, use the manufacturer’s sizing guidance rather than adding stronger struts by guesswork.
Cut the cabinet parts
Cut two sides at 18 by 8 inches, a top and bottom at 22-1/2 by 8 inches, and a door at 23-7/8 by 17-7/8 inches. The top and bottom fit between the sides, giving a 24-inch outside width. The small door gaps—about 1/16 inch at the sides and top—allow for paint and seasonal movement. Dry-fit the parts and adjust the door size if your actual box differs.
Cut the back from 1/4-inch plywood to 24 by 18 inches, or size it to the measured box after assembly. Add a 3-inch-wide strip of 3/4-inch plywood inside near the top as a mounting cleat. Cover exposed plywood edges with iron-on banding or glued-on hardwood edging. A roll of iron-on edge banding is quick for painted or lightly used cabinets; solid edging resists dings better, but takes more fitting and sanding.
Assemble and square the box
Apply a thin, even bead of glue to the ends of the top and bottom. Clamp them between the sides, keeping the front edges flush, then drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4-inch screws through the sides into the ends. Plywood splits easily near an edge, so keep screw centres at least 3/8 inch from the edge and drill pilot holes sized for the screw shank. Wipe away glue squeeze-out before it dries.
Measure diagonally from corner to corner across the front. The two measurements should match within about 1/8 inch. If they do not, nudge the box square while the glue is wet. Attach the back, checking square again as you work; the back helps lock the box in shape. Screw the mounting cleat inside the cabinet near the top, with its broad face against the back. Sand exposed edges and apply paint or finish before fitting the hardware.
Fit the door and stays
Mark the door’s hinge line along the top edge and install a continuous piano hinge or two sturdy butt hinges. A piano hinge spreads the load and is forgiving on a wide, light door; two butt hinges are less conspicuous but need careful alignment. Use short screws that will not break through the door face. Set the door in place with temporary 1/16-inch spacers around its sides and top, then fasten the hinge to the cabinet.
With the door held at the desired open position, mark the stay locations on both sides. Install the stays loosely, test the movement, then tighten the screws. The door should open without binding, stay where intended and close without needing a shove. If it drifts down, check that the stays are correctly oriented and that the door is within their rated range. If it snaps shut, stop using it until the hardware is adjusted or replaced; a lift-up door can pinch fingers.
Mount and test the cabinet
Find at least two wall studs and mark their centres. Drive structural cabinet or construction screws through the rear cleat into the studs; do not hang a loaded cabinet from drywall anchors alone. A basic stud finder helps locate framing, but confirm each mark with a small pilot hole or another reliable check. Use a level while fastening, and have someone support the cabinet. If the studs do not line up with the cleat, add a properly secured wall rail or blocking rather than relying on toggle bolts for a heavy load.
Test the door several times before loading the cabinet. Check that the hinge screws remain tight, the door clears nearby trim, and both stays share the load. Start with light contents and add weight gradually. Recheck the wall screws after a few days, especially if the cabinet is mounted over a workbench or sink.