What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A pivoting-face book stand holds a book open at a comfortable reading angle, then tilts forward so you can turn pages or remove the book without lifting it over a fixed lip. This version uses a plywood base, a hinged reading panel, and two adjustable support arms. It suits a first-time woodworker with a drill and saw; the hardest part is laying out matching arm positions so the face stays level.
Contents
Size and materials
The dimensions below fit many cookbooks, hardcovers, and tablets. For an oversized book, increase the panel width and check that the base remains deep enough to resist tipping. Use 12 mm (1/2-inch) plywood for the base and face, plus a 6 mm (1/4-inch) strip for the bottom book ledge. Birch plywood gives clean edges, but ordinary sanded plywood is adequate if you smooth and seal it.
- Base: 300 × 220 mm (about 12 × 8 3/4 inches)
- Pivoting face: 300 × 250 mm (about 12 × 10 inches)
- Book ledge: 300 × 20 mm (about 12 × 3/4 inches)
- Two support arms: hardwood strips about 25 × 8 × 160 mm (1 × 5/16 × 6 1/4 inches)
- One continuous hinge about 250 mm (10 inches) long, or two small butt hinges
- Two bolts, washers, and hand-tightened knobs for the adjustable arms
For the pivot, a small continuous hinge spreads the load along the panel and is less likely to twist than one small hinge. Two butt hinges cost less and work fine if you align them carefully. If you want the stand to stay put on a smooth counter, add thin rubber feet; cork scraps also work, though they can wear faster.
Tools and design choices
You’ll need a saw, drill, square, clamps, sandpaper, and a screwdriver. A jigsaw makes the arm slots easier, but a drill and round file can make them too. A pair of small woodworking clamps helps keep the hinge straight while fastening it. Don’t buy specialty tools just for this project if you can borrow them.
| Adjustment method | What it does well | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Slotted arms with knobs | Simple, stepless angle adjustment | Slots take careful layout; knobs need retightening |
| Fixed notches in the base | Fast, repeatable settings with no loose knobs | Fewer angles; notches can wear or split |
| Friction stays | Quick to use and compact | Hardware quality varies; may slip under a heavy book |
This guide uses slotted arms because they are adjustable with basic hardware. For a stand used at one desk with one book size, fixed notches are a reasonable, cheaper alternative.
Cut and prepare the parts
Cut the base and face square. Round the face’s upper corners slightly so they are less likely to catch sleeves, then sand all edges to 180 grit. Check the plywood for splinters around the cut edges; thin plywood veneers chip easily if you force a blunt blade. If using a jigsaw, support the sheet close to the cut and let the blade do the work.
Cut the ledge to the face width and glue it along the lower edge of the face, leaving about 10 mm (3/8 inch) of face below it. A 20 mm ledge is enough for most books. Clamp it flat and let the glue cure according to its label. Predrill through the ledge into the face if adding small screws; without pilot holes, the narrow strip can split.
Fit the hinge
Place the base and face on a flat surface with their lower edges aligned and the face lying open. Center the hinge across the joint. Mark screw holes, then drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the screw shanks. Test the hinge motion before installing every screw: the face should open freely without binding against the base. If the hinge leaf stands proud, the panel may wobble when closed; shallow recesses are optional, but keep them even and don’t cut through the 12 mm plywood.
Use screws short enough not to break through the opposite face of the plywood. A screw that is too long can leave a sharp point or weaken the veneer. If the hinge holes are near an edge, predrilling is especially important.
Make adjustable support arms
Mark a lengthwise slot in each arm, about 6 × 90 mm (1/4 × 3 1/2 inches), centered along its length. Drill a hole at each end of the slot, then connect the holes with a jigsaw or file. Smooth the slot so the bolt can slide without snagging. Make both arms the same length and place their slots in matching positions; unequal arms make the face sit crooked.
Attach one end of each arm to the back of the face with a bolt and washer, about 55 mm (2 1/4 inches) in from each side. The bolt should pivot freely, so don’t crush the wood when tightening. Put a second bolt through each slot and into the base. Place the base bolts symmetrically, roughly 120 mm (4 3/4 inches) from the hinge. Use washers under the knobs to spread pressure and reduce the chance of the plywood surface crushing.
Set the face to a comfortable angle, typically 45 to 60 degrees from the base, and tighten the knobs by hand. If the arms slip during a page turn, roughen the contact area lightly with sandpaper or use larger washers. Don’t overtighten: the slot may split at its end, particularly in softwood.
Test and finish
Place the stand on a level table and load it with the heaviest book you expect to use. Open and close the face, turn several pages, and check that the base does not lift or slide. If it tips backward, move the base bolts forward or make the base deeper. If the face creeps down, tighten the knobs or add a thin rubber washer at each arm connection.
Ease sharp edges with 180- or 220-grit sandpaper. A water-based clear finish is easy to clean and has little odor; a coat of hard wax oil also works, but can leave the surface less resistant to spills. Keep finish off the hinge and threaded hardware. Let it cure fully before setting a book on the stand, since fresh finish can mark paper or cloth covers. Recheck the knobs and hinge screws after the first few uses.