Make a Slatted Poolside Storage Box for Towels and Outdoor Games

AI-generated editorial illustration of wood storage box
Updated Sep 27, 2026· 5 min read

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

A slatted storage box gives towels, pool toys, and outdoor games a dry place to live without looking like a plastic deck bin. This version is sized for a typical pool deck: about 48 inches wide, 22 inches deep, and 24 inches high. The slatted sides allow some ventilation, while a hinged lid keeps the contents out of sight. It is a manageable weekend project for a confident beginner with a saw, drill, and sander.

Contents
  1. Design and materials
  2. Cut list and layout
  3. Build the box
  4. Install the slatted sides
  5. Make and fit the lid
  6. Finish and seasonal care

Design and materials

Use exterior-rated lumber throughout. Cedar is lighter and naturally rot-resistant, but it is soft and costs more. Pressure-treated pine is cheaper and stronger, although it needs more sanding and can be noticeably damp or twisted when purchased. You can also use exterior-rated plywood for the box panels, then cover the outside with slats. That is the fastest construction method, but plywood edges must be sealed carefully.

Material Advantages Drawbacks Best choice when
Cedar boards Light, attractive, naturally weather-resistant Soft, expensive, prone to dents You want a furniture-like finish
Pressure-treated pine Affordable, strong, widely available Heavy, wet, and often warped Cost and durability matter most
Exterior plywood with slats Fast, rigid, fewer individual parts Edges require careful sealing You want the simplest build

For the all-board version, buy approximately eight 1×6 boards, eight 1×3 boards, and one 1×4 board, all 8 feet long. Actual dimensions vary by supplier, so measure each board rather than relying on nominal sizes. You will also need exterior screws, waterproof wood glue, two or three outdoor-rated hinges, a lid stay, and a hasp or latch. An outdoor-rated stainless steel hinge is worth using near a pool; ordinary indoor hinges will rust quickly.

Cut list and layout

Build the carcass from four corner posts, four upper rails, four lower rails, and slats. Cut the posts to 23 1/4 inches. Cut the front and back rails to 45 inches and the side rails to 19 inches. These dimensions produce a box close to 48 inches wide by 22 inches deep once the 3/4-inch-thick slats are added.

For the walls, cut twelve front-and-back slats at 48 inches and twelve side slats at 22 inches. Three slats per side will not cover the entire height, so use four slats on each face with a roughly 1/2-inch gap between them. Adjust the spacing to suit the actual board width. The bottom can be three 1×6 boards supported by cleats, or an exterior plywood panel. A plywood bottom is less likely to let small toys fall through.

Cut the lid frame from 1×3 stock: two pieces at 48 inches and two pieces at 19 inches. Add three or four crosspieces beneath the lid to prevent sagging, then cover the frame with five or six slats. The finished lid should overhang the box by about 1 inch on all four sides.

Build the box

Start by sorting the lumber. Set aside boards with severe twist, large end splits, or soft spots. Slightly bowed boards can often be used as slats, but do not use badly twisted pieces for the frame.

Assemble the front and back frames first. Position the rails between the corner posts, keeping the top rails flush with the post tops and the lower rails about 2 inches above the bottom. Drill clearance holes and drive two exterior screws at each joint. Glue is helpful on clean, dry cedar, but do not depend on glue alone outdoors. For pressure-treated lumber, use screws designed for treated wood and skip glue if the surfaces are damp.

Join the front and back frames with the side rails. Check that the box is square by measuring both diagonals; they should be within 1/8 inch of each other. If not, push one corner until the measurements match, then add the remaining screws. A temporary clamp or ratchet strap makes this step much easier.

Install bottom cleats inside the lower rails, about 3/4 inch above their bottom edges. Screw the bottom boards or plywood to the cleats, leaving a 1/8-inch gap between boards for drainage. If using plywood, seal all faces and especially the cut edges with an exterior wood sealer.

Install the slatted sides

Cut spacers from scrap wood so every gap is consistent. A 1/2-inch gap is a useful compromise: it provides airflow without making the box look too open. Start at the bottom of each face and work upward, keeping the slats parallel to the rails. Predrill near the ends to reduce splitting, particularly with cedar. Use two screws per slat at each frame member.

Do not seal the slats tightly against the ground. Keep the lowest wood at least 1 inch above the deck by using the raised lower rails or adding rubber feet. Standing water is the most common cause of premature rot in this project. If the box sits on pavers or concrete, add outdoor rubber furniture feet under the posts.

Make and fit the lid

Build the lid as a flat frame, checking it for square before fastening the slats. Keep the lid light; a heavy, wet lid can strain the hinges and slam shut. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between lid slats, and sand the front and side edges to remove sharp corners.

Center the lid on the box and install the hinges along the back rail. Use three hinges for a 48-inch lid if the wood is heavy. Fit a lid stay or soft-close support before loading the box. Without a stay, wind can throw the lid backward or let it fall on a child’s fingers. A simple toy box lid stay is inexpensive insurance.

Finish and seasonal care

Sand exposed edges to 120 or 150 grit. Do not sand pressure-treated lumber until it is dry; freshly treated boards can clog paper and smear. Apply a penetrating exterior stain or water-repellent finish to all faces, including the underside and inside corners. Paint gives more color choices but will expose peeling sooner if moisture is trapped in the joints.

Keep wet towels in a removable ventilated basket rather than piling them directly against the wood. Do not store chlorine, pool chemicals, or fuel in the box; leaks can damage the finish and create dangerous fumes. At the end of the season, empty the box, clean out leaves, and leave the lid open until everything is dry. Tighten loose screws and touch up exposed end grain before winter.

W
Woodworking Projects
We compare specs, warranty terms, long-term owner feedback and street pricing before anything earns a spot. Rankings are never paid.
Affiliate disclosure. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. Prices accurate as of the date shown.
Make a Slatted Poolside Storage Box for Towels…Check price on Amazon

Related guides

Browse all How-To guides →