What's inside
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This charging station holds a phone and a tablet upright in separate bays, with room behind each for a charging cable. It’s a manageable weekend project: the cuts are simple, and the main thing to get right is the slot width. Measure your actual devices and cases before cutting; a bay that fits a bare phone may be too tight for a bulky case.
Contents
Dimensions and layout
The plan below makes a station about 12 inches wide, 6 inches deep, and 5 inches tall. It fits a phone up to about 3.5 inches wide and a tablet up to about 8.5 inches wide. Adjust the bay widths to suit your devices rather than treating those numbers as fixed.
The front has two openings: a 4-inch-wide phone bay and a 9-inch-wide tablet bay, separated by a ½-inch divider. Each opening is cut about 1 inch deep into the top. A backrest behind the slots keeps the devices from tipping. Leave a gap between the backrest and the base so cables can pass through.
Materials and tools
Use ¾-inch plywood or straight-grained solid wood for the base, backrest, and dividers. A 12-by-12-inch offcut is often enough, though grain direction and mistakes may require more. Plywood is stable and easy to finish; solid wood looks warmer but can move with seasonal humidity.
You’ll need a saw, drill, square, tape measure, clamps, and sandpaper. A jigsaw is convenient for cutting the bays; a handsaw and chisel can do the job more slowly. For a smooth, accurate cut in plywood, a jigsaw with a wood-cutting blade is a practical choice, but you don’t need a premium model for two straight slots.
Choose glue and fasteners suited to your material. Wood glue is enough for well-fitted joints; add screws if you want a mechanical backup or expect to move the station often. For charging, use your existing manufacturer-approved cables and a charger with enough ports and output for both devices.
Choose a cutting method
| Method | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Jigsaw | Quick slots and curved corners | Easy to wander; guide the saw slowly and clean up edges afterward |
| Handsaw and chisel | One-off builds without buying a power tool | More effort, but workable with careful marking |
| Drill and coping saw | Starting an interior cut in a small shop | Requires a starter hole and patience on long cuts |
For this project, the jigsaw is the fastest option. If you already own hand tools, there’s little reason to buy a saw just for this build; a careful hand-cut slot will function just as well.
Measure and mark the bays
Measure each device with its case on. Add at least ⅛ inch to the widest measurement for clearance; add ¼ inch if the case is soft or you want to remove the device easily. For example, a tablet that measures 8¼ inches across needs an opening of roughly 8½ inches. Check that the total bay widths, divider, and outside margins fit your base.
Mark both slots on the base. Make each slot about 1 inch deep and wide enough for the device to stand without binding. A deeper slot improves stability but can cover buttons or speakers, so test against the device’s lower edge. Round the slot corners slightly if they press against a case.
Cut and assemble
Cut the base to about 12 by 6 inches. Cut the slots slowly, staying just inside the marked lines. Test-fit the devices, then widen tight spots with a file or sandpaper. Don’t force a device into a narrow slot; that can scrape the case or split the wood.
Cut a backrest about 12 inches wide and 4 inches tall. Set it behind the bays with a ½- to ¾-inch gap from the base so charging cables can turn through. If you prefer a fixed stand angle, bevel the bottom of the backrest or add small triangular side supports. A simple upright backrest is easier to build, but the devices lean less comfortably than they would on an angled support.
Glue the backrest and supports in place, checking the assembly with a square. Clamp until the glue sets according to its label. If using screws, drill pilot holes first; screws driven into the edge of plywood without pilots can split the veneer. Sand sharp edges and ease the slot rims so they don’t catch on fabric cases.
Route cables and finish
Feed one cable through the gap behind each bay, leaving enough slack to connect and disconnect without pulling the station over. Keep cable plugs outside the slots so devices sit on wood, not on a connector. A small hole near the rear edge can help route a cable from underneath, but drill a test hole in scrap first to check that the plug will pass through.
Sand through 120- and then 180-grit paper. Apply a water-based finish, oil, or paint according to the product directions. Let it cure fully before charging devices on the station; uncured finishes can mark cases. Avoid sealing over the cable path or creating a tight enclosure around chargers, which can trap heat.
Test before use
Place both devices in their bays and check that they stay upright when a cable is unplugged. Pull each cable gently; if the station shifts, add rubber feet or a little more depth to the base. Confirm that charging plugs don’t bear the devices’ weight and that buttons, speakers, and charging ports remain accessible.
Finally, check the charger’s total output against the devices’ requirements. A cheap multiport charger may split power between ports and charge two devices slowly. If overnight charging is all you need, that may be fine; for faster charging, compare the charger’s stated per-port output with your device specifications before buying. Keep the charger and power strip in an open, ventilated spot rather than hiding them beneath cloth or inside a closed box.