What's inside
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A folding stool is a good summer build: the parts are small, the work fits in a garage or driveway, and you can finish it in a weekend. This version uses two crossed wooden frames, a pivot bolt and a canvas seat. It is sized for an adult, but a stool is not a substitute for a ladder or a chair for long sitting.
Contents
Plan and dimensions
The finished stool is about 18 inches high and 15 inches wide. Each frame is made from two legs; the frames cross at a pivot so the stool folds flat. A canvas sling joins the front and rear top rails. These dimensions are a practical starting point, not a tested load rating. Use sound lumber, tight hardware and a secure seat, and inspect the stool before each use.
For the legs, buy two straight 1-by-2-inch hardwood boards at least 8 feet long. Maple, ash or beech are suitable; clear, dry poplar is a budget-friendly option for ordinary indoor use. Avoid knots, cracks and twisted stock, especially around the pivot holes. The finished leg size will be about ¾ by 1½ inches. You will also need two top rails, each about 15 inches long, cut from the same stock.
Materials and tools
Gather four legs, two top rails, ¼-inch plywood or a board for drilling templates, two ¼-inch-diameter bolts about 2½ inches long, washers, locknuts, wood glue and a piece of heavy canvas about 18 by 22 inches. The exact bolt length depends on the combined thickness of your legs and washers; the nut should engage fully without leaving excessive bolt protruding.
A circular saw or handsaw, drill, ¼-inch bit, square, tape measure, clamps and sandpaper are enough. A heavy cotton duck canvas is easy to sew and comfortable. If you do not sew, a local upholstery shop can hem the edges; a stapled seat is possible, but it is harder to replace neatly.
Cut and drill the frames
Cut four legs to 22 inches and two rails to 15 inches. Round the lower ends of the legs slightly to reduce splintering, then sand all edges. On each leg, mark the pivot hole 10 inches down from the top. Measure from the same end on every piece, and drill square through the narrow face with a ¼-inch bit. A drill press helps, but a careful hand drill and a square guide block work.
Pair the legs into two frames, with one leg on the outside and one on the inside at the crossing. Before drilling or gluing anything permanently, assemble the crossed pairs with the bolts and open them to check the spread. The legs should move without binding. If the hole is too tight, the stool will stick; if it is badly oversized, the frames can wobble. Keep the holes centered and use washers between moving wood surfaces.
Attach one rail across the top of each frame, flush with the leg ends. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting and use glue plus two screws at each end. Keep the rails parallel and the frames square. Do not glue the two frames together at the pivot: they must rotate freely.
Choose a seat attachment
| Method | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Sewn sleeve | Durable, replaceable seat | Requires sewing or paid hemming |
| Folded and stapled canvas | Quick shop build | Staples can pull out; fabric replacement is less tidy |
| Leather or webbing loops | Simple, repairable construction | More visible hardware and a less continuous seat |
For a sewn sleeve, fold and stitch a channel at each short end wide enough to slide over the top rails. Measure the distance between the rails with the stool open before sewing: it varies with the pivot position and leg spread. Leave roughly ½ inch of slack so the canvas is taut under weight but does not pull the frames inward. A tight seat can prevent the stool from opening fully; a loose seat may sag enough to push the legs apart.
Assemble and test
Fit the canvas over the rails, then install the pivot bolts with washers and locknuts. Tighten each nut until the joint has no obvious side-to-side play, then back off slightly if the legs do not swing smoothly. The frame should open evenly, and the seat should sit level. If one leg twists, check that the rails are square and that the pivot holes align.
Test the stool on a level floor. Press down on the seat gradually with your hands before sitting. Look for a rail pulling away, a bolt shifting, canvas stitches stretching or legs sliding outward. Stop and fix any movement; do not try to compensate by overtightening the pivot. For outdoor use, add non-slip rubber feet and a breathable exterior finish. A water-based exterior wood finish is easy to apply, though it will need maintenance if the stool is left outside.
Finish and maintain
Sand to 120 or 150 grit, easing corners where hands and legs touch. Apply finish before fitting the canvas, and let it cure according to the label. Do not store the stool wet or leave it in standing water: moisture can swell the wood, loosen joints and encourage mildew in the seat. Check the bolts and fabric periodically, particularly after the first few uses.
For a first build, keep the design simple and spend time on straight cuts, square rails and accurate pivot holes. Those details matter more to a stool that folds cleanly than decorative shaping or an expensive finish.