What's inside
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Contents
Project overview
This compact bedside table is sized for a mattress-height nightstand: approximately 24 inches tall, 20 inches wide, and 16 inches deep. It has one drawer for small items and an open shelf for books, a basket, or a charging station. The design uses plywood for the case and solid wood for the legs, trim, and drawer front. That keeps the build stable without requiring a large amount of expensive hardwood.
The project is suitable for an experienced beginner with a circular saw or table saw, drill, pocket-hole jig, and basic sanding equipment. Allow a full weekend if you are cutting, assembling, filling, sanding, and finishing carefully. The most common failures are an out-of-square cabinet, a drawer that binds, and shelf or top panels that are cut slightly too large.
Materials and tools
Use 3/4-inch plywood for the two sides, top, bottom, shelf, and drawer parts. Cabinet-grade birch plywood is easier to finish than construction plywood, but sanded pine plywood is acceptable when the edges will be covered. Choose straight, dry 1×2 or 1×3 boards for the legs and face trim.
| Material or tool | Recommended choice | Cheaper option and trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Case material | 3/4-inch birch plywood | Sanded pine plywood; more voids and a softer surface |
| Drawer slides | 16-inch full-extension side-mount slides | Wood runners; cheaper, but more sensitive to humidity and fit |
| Back panel | 1/4-inch plywood | 1/8-inch hardboard; adequate if the table is secured to a wall |
| Finish | Water-based polyurethane | Wipe-on oil; easy to apply but offers less water and abrasion resistance |
You will also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch pocket screws or trim screws, 1 1/4-inch brad nails, sandpaper from 120 through 220 grit, wood filler, and a drawer pull. A set of 16-inch full-extension drawer slides is the simplest hardware choice. If you do not own a pocket-hole jig, ordinary screws driven through the sides can work, but the holes will need plugs or filler.
Cut list and dimensions
Cut the case parts to these dimensions:
- Two side panels: 24 by 16 inches
- Top: 20 by 16 inches
- Bottom: 18 1/2 by 15 1/4 inches
- Open shelf: 18 1/2 by 14 3/4 inches
- Back panel: 20 by 24 inches from 1/4-inch plywood
- Four legs: 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 by 24 inches
- Drawer front: 17 1/4 by 5 1/2 inches
Build the drawer box after checking the actual slide instructions. For typical 1/2-inch side-clearance slides, make the drawer box 15 1/2 inches wide, 14 inches deep, and 4 1/2 inches high. Cut the drawer sides and back from 1/2-inch plywood, the front from 3/4-inch plywood, and the bottom from 1/4-inch plywood. The finished drawer front will cover the box and should leave about a 1/8-inch gap on each side and a 1/8-inch gap above and below.
Build the table case
Mark the inside faces of both side panels before assembly. Measure 5 inches up from the bottom to locate the underside of the open shelf. Also mark the bottom panel so its top surface sits 3 inches above the floor. This creates a short leg section below the case and leaves room for a shelf above it.
Drill pocket holes on the inside faces of the side panels, keeping them at least 2 inches from each end. Apply glue to the panel edges, clamp the bottom and shelf between the sides, and drive the screws. Check both diagonals before the glue sets. If the diagonals differ by more than 1/8 inch, push the longer diagonal inward until the case is square.
Attach the back panel with glue and 1 1/4-inch brads or screws. The back is not just cosmetic: it prevents racking. Keep the case square while fastening it. A crooked back will make a correctly built drawer appear defective.
Add the legs, trim, and top
Position one leg at each corner, flush with the outside edges of the case. Glue and screw the legs from inside the cabinet so no fastener heads show on the exterior. Use two screws per joint, offset vertically to reduce splitting. If your legs are slightly bowed, place the straightest faces toward the room.
Cut narrow strips of solid wood to cover the exposed plywood edges. A 1 1/2-inch-wide strip works well on the front edges; a 3/4-inch strip is enough for edges that are less visible. Glue the trim in place and pin it with brads. Do not rely on filler to repair a badly chipped plywood edge.
Center the 20-by-16-inch top over the case, leaving a 1-inch overhang at the front and an even overhang at both sides. Secure it with screws through elongated holes or figure-eight fasteners. Wood moves across its grain, and rigidly fastening a solid-wood top can cause cracks during seasonal changes.
Make and install the drawer
Assemble the drawer box with glue and screws or brads, keeping the front edges flush. Slide the 1/4-inch bottom into grooves if you have a dado blade; otherwise, glue and nail it to the underside. Confirm the box is square by measuring its diagonals.
Separate the drawer slides and mount the cabinet members level and parallel, usually 2 inches below the opening’s top edge. Attach the drawer members to the box using the slide manufacturer’s hole pattern. Leave the drawer front off until the box operates smoothly. If it binds, check for parallel slides before sanding anything. A 1/16-inch height difference can cause noticeable drag.
Center the drawer front over the opening with playing-card-thick gaps, clamp it in place, and drive screws from inside the drawer. Install the pull only after the front is aligned. A simple drawer pull is less likely to distract from attractive wood grain than an oversized handle.
Sand and finish
Fill nail holes and visible screw holes, then sand the project with 120-grit paper followed by 180 grit. Use 220 grit only for the final pass; over-sanding plywood edges can remove the thin face veneer. Ease sharp corners with two or three light sanding strokes.
For paint, apply a primer to the plywood edges and any knots before two finish coats. For a clear finish, use two or three coats of water-based polyurethane, sanding lightly with 220 grit between coats. A water-based polyurethane dries quickly and keeps pale wood light, but it can raise the grain on the first coat. Let the finish cure according to its label before loading the drawer.
Final checks and safety
Test the table on a level floor. Press opposite corners to check for rocking, then adjust a leg with a sanding block or add a thin felt pad. Open the drawer fully and verify that the table does not tip forward. If the table will be used by a child or placed on a slippery floor, anchor it to the wall with an anti-tip strap. Keep the shelf load below about 25 pounds unless you add a thicker shelf or center support.
Before cutting, inspect plywood for hidden screws and support both sides of every cut. Wear eye protection when cutting and sanding, and use dust collection or a suitable respirator for plywood dust and finish fumes.