Beginner Plans for a Wooden Footrest with a Padded Top

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Updated Sep 27, 2026· 5 min read

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A wooden footrest is a useful first woodworking project: it needs only a few straight cuts, tolerates minor cosmetic mistakes, and can be improved with a padded top. A good beginner version is a low rectangular stool about 18 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 6 to 8 inches high. That size supports both feet under a desk without becoming a tripping hazard.

Contents
  1. Choose a Simple Design
  2. Materials and Tools
  3. Cut List and Dimensions
  4. Build the Wooden Base
  5. Add the Padded Top
  6. Finish and Floor Protection
  7. Check Common Failures

Choose a Simple Design

The easiest plan uses a solid top, two side panels, and a lower stretcher. The side panels act as legs, so you do not need to build four separate leg joints. Use 3/4-inch plywood for the sides and top, or use a 1-by board for the top if you prefer the look of solid wood.

Design Best for Advantages Drawbacks
Simple box footrest First project, desk use Few cuts, strong, easy to upholster Heavier and less decorative
Four-leg footstool More traditional furniture Lighter appearance, easier to move Requires careful leg and apron alignment
Angled-top footrest People who prefer raised toes More ergonomic adjustment Harder cuts and a greater tipping risk

For a first build, choose the box design. A flat top is stable, and padding hides small imperfections in the plywood edge. If the footrest will sit on a hard floor, add rubber feet rather than making the base taller.

Materials and Tools

For an 18-by-12-inch footrest, buy one 2-by-2-foot piece of 3/4-inch plywood, or enough 1-by lumber to make the top. You will also need a piece of 1-by-2 lumber for the stretcher, wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, sandpaper, upholstery foam, fabric, and four non-slip feet.

Three-inch foam is comfortable for a desk footrest, but 2-inch foam gives a firmer, lower seat. Choose medium-density upholstery foam instead of packing foam, which collapses quickly. A basic upholstery foam sheet is suitable; you do not need high-end foam for occasional use.

The essential tools are a tape measure, square, pencil, drill, drill bits, countersink bit, and saw. A circular saw with a straightedge guide produces cleaner, straighter plywood cuts than a small handsaw. If you do not own one, a hardware store can often make the large cuts for a small fee.

Cut List and Dimensions

Cut these parts:

  • Top: 18 by 12 inches
  • Two side panels: 10 1/2 by 6 inches
  • Lower stretcher: 16 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches

The side-panel height assumes a 3/4-inch top. With a 3-inch cushion, the finished height is about 9 1/4 inches. If you want a lower footrest, make the side panels 5 inches high. Check the intended chair or desk before cutting: the top of the cushion should not force your knees noticeably upward.

Round over the front corners of the top if people will walk near it. A 1-inch radius is enough. Do not make the side panels too narrow; less than 5 inches of depth can make the footrest feel tippy when one foot is placed near the edge.

Build the Wooden Base

Start by marking the side panels. Position each panel 1 inch in from the top’s ends, or place them flush with the top ends if you want the simplest layout. The flush version is easier to assemble, while the inset version looks more furniture-like and leaves the top edges less exposed to bumps.

Apply glue to the upper edges of the side panels. Set the top in place and clamp it, checking both sides with a square. Drill pilot holes through the top into each panel, then install four evenly spaced screws per side. Countersink the screw heads slightly so they will not telegraph through the upholstery.

Install the stretcher between the side panels, about 1 1/2 inches above the floor. This ties the base together and prevents the side panels from spreading. Apply glue to both ends, clamp the stretcher, and drive two screws through each side panel. Drill pilot holes first, particularly near plywood edges where splitting is common.

Wipe away glue squeeze-out while it is wet. Once dry, sand all exposed edges with 120-grit paper, then finish with 180-grit. Do not skip the bottom edges: sharp plywood corners can scratch floors and catch on rugs.

Add the Padded Top

Cut the foam to the same size as the top, or make it 1/4 inch smaller on all four sides. A slightly undersized cushion keeps the foam from bulging over the plywood corners. Use a sharp serrated knife and make several light passes rather than forcing one deep cut.

Cut fabric with at least 4 inches of extra material on every side. Place the fabric face down, center the foam and wooden base on it, and staple the fabric to the underside. Pull the fabric firmly but not aggressively. Staple the center of each side first, then work toward the corners, alternating sides so the fabric tension stays even.

At each corner, fold the fabric like wrapping a present and trim away excess layers. Too much fabric creates lumps and prevents the footrest from sitting flat. A manual upholstery staple gun is adequate for one footrest, although a powered stapler is easier if your hands tire quickly.

Finish and Floor Protection

For painted plywood, fill exposed edges with wood filler, sand smooth, and apply primer before two thin coats of paint. For a natural finish, use stain only after testing on a scrap; plywood edges often absorb color differently from the face. Water-based polyurethane dries faster and has less odor, while oil-based polyurethane gives more working time but can remain tacky longer.

Attach four rubber feet near the corners of the base. Cheap adhesive feet are fine on carpet, but screw-on rubber feet are more reliable on hardwood. If the footrest rocks, do not compensate by adding random felt layers. Find the high corner, sand it slightly, or use an adjustable screw-on furniture foot.

Check Common Failures

Test the finished footrest by pressing down on each corner and placing both feet on the center. It should not rock, twist, or slide. If the top flexes, the plywood may be thinner than stated or the stretcher may be loose. Add a second stretcher or a center support rather than simply adding more screws.

If the cushion feels too soft, replace the foam rather than adding extra fabric. If it feels too hard, a thin layer of polyester batting under the fabric can soften the edges, but it will not turn poor foam into a comfortable cushion. Keep the finished height and stability in mind: comfort is useful only if the footrest stays planted when you shift position.

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