What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A small wooden cabinet with sliding doors is a useful beginner-to-intermediate project: it teaches accurate panel cutting, edge treatment, square assembly, and basic hardware installation without requiring a large shop. This version is sized at approximately 24 inches wide, 30 inches tall, and 10 inches deep. It works as a bathroom cabinet, entryway storage unit, or small media and book cabinet.
Contents
Project Overview and Skill Level
Plan on one full day for cutting and assembly, plus another day for glue drying, sanding, and finishing. The project is easiest in spring or fall when moderate temperatures make glue and finish more predictable. Beginners can build it with a circular saw and a straightedge, although a table saw makes the repeated cuts faster and cleaner.
| Material or method | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4-inch plywood | Stable, strong, and less likely to split or warp | Requires edge banding or solid-wood edging |
| 3/4-inch solid pine | Easy to cut and inexpensive | Can cup or move with humidity changes |
| 1/4-inch plywood back | Keeps the cabinet square without adding much weight | Needs a groove, rabbet, or rear mounting strips |
| Wooden sliding doors | Quiet and simple, with no glass-breakage risk | Hide part of the cabinet opening at all times |
Materials and Tools
Buy one 4-by-8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood for the cabinet and doors, plus a 1/4-inch plywood panel for the back. You will also need wood glue, 1-1/4-inch screws, 1-inch screws, sandpaper from 120 through 220 grit, and a finish suited to the room. A roll of iron-on edge banding is the simplest way to cover exposed plywood edges.
Useful tools include a tape measure, combination square, pencil, drill/driver, countersink bit, clamps, and a saw. A circular saw guide rail is not essential, but it makes straight panel cuts much more reliable. If you have a table saw, use it for ripping the sides, top, bottom, shelves, and door parts.
Cut List
These dimensions produce a cabinet about 24 inches wide by 30 inches tall and 10 inches deep. Confirm the actual thickness of your plywood before cutting, since nominal 3/4-inch material may measure about 23/32 inch.
- Two sides: 30 by 10 inches
- Top and bottom: 22-1/2 by 10 inches
- One adjustable shelf: 22-1/2 by 9-1/2 inches
- Two sliding doors: 23-1/4 by 14-1/4 inches, cut from 1/2-inch plywood or solid panels
- One back: 23-1/2 by 29-1/2 inches, from 1/4-inch plywood
The door dimensions assume a 1/2-inch overlap on each side and a two-track sliding-door system. Check the hardware instructions before cutting. Different tracks can require a 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch gap at the top and bottom.
Build the Cabinet Carcass
Start by inspecting each panel for bowing. Mark the best-looking face of every piece. Cut slowly and support the plywood on sacrificial foam or scrap boards to prevent tear-out on the underside. Label the parts immediately; mixing up the top and bottom is easy when all the pieces look alike.
Lay one side flat and mark the locations for the top, bottom, and shelf. The top and bottom should fit between the sides, with their edges flush to the side panels. Drill pilot holes before driving screws. Two screws near each end of the top and bottom are sufficient, but keep them at least 3/8 inch from the panel edges to reduce splitting.
Apply a thin, continuous bead of glue to each joint, assemble the second side, and check the cabinet for square. Measure both diagonals from corner to corner. If the measurements differ by more than 1/8 inch, push the longer diagonal inward before the glue sets. Clamp the case or use temporary bracing while the glue dries.
Install the Back and Shelf
The back is what keeps a small cabinet square. Position the 1/4-inch panel over the rear opening and tack it with glue and 1-inch screws or nails spaced about 6 inches apart. If you prefer a cleaner appearance, cut a 1/4-inch-wide by 1/4-inch-deep rabbet around the back edges before assembly. That method takes longer but leaves the back nearly flush.
Install shelf pins in matching rows on both sides. A shelf drilling jig is worthwhile if you expect to build more cabinets; otherwise, a carefully marked template and a 5mm or 1/4-inch bit will work. Drill only about 3/8 inch deep. A piece of tape on the bit makes a simple depth stop. Keep the shelf slightly narrower than the cabinet opening so it can be removed without scraping the sides.
Make and Fit the Sliding Doors
Sliding doors need to stay flat. Use plywood rather than wide solid-wood boards if the cabinet will see seasonal humidity changes. If you use solid pine, choose narrow boards, glue them edge to edge, and allow the panel to acclimate indoors for several days before fitting it.
Sand the door panels through 180 grit, then ease every exposed edge with one or two light passes of sandpaper. Install the upper and lower tracks centered on the cabinet opening. Predrill the screw holes, because track metal can bend if a screw pulls it down unevenly. Mount the rear door first, then the front door. Adjust the rollers until each panel slides freely without rattling.
A common failure is doors that scrape at one corner. This usually means the cabinet is out of square or the track is not level. Check the cabinet diagonals and use a small level across the track. Do not force the doors; enlarge the adjustment range or shim the track instead.
Sand and Finish the Cabinet
Fill visible screw holes with matching filler, then sand the cabinet with 120 grit followed by 180 grit. Use 220 grit only for final smoothing; sanding plywood veneer aggressively can expose the core. Apply edge banding before the final sanding, trim it with a sharp knife or edge trimmer, and smooth the seam carefully.
For a quick indoor finish, use two or three coats of water-based polyurethane, sanding lightly with 220 grit between coats. For painted cabinets, apply primer to plywood edges first because they absorb paint unevenly. A water-based polyurethane dries faster and has less odor than oil-based finish, while oil-based finish generally gives pine a warmer color.
Buying and Safety Tips
Do not save money on warped plywood, weak track hardware, or a dull saw blade. Those parts create alignment problems that are difficult to correct later. Cheap wood glue and basic shelf pins are usually fine. If the cabinet will hold heavy dishes or books, use 3/4-inch plywood throughout, add a fixed center shelf, and anchor the finished cabinet to the wall with a furniture anti-tip wall anchor kit.
Wear eye protection when cutting and drilling, support large panels properly, and keep your hands clear of the blade path. Let every finish coat dry fully before installing the doors. A rushed finish can remain soft under the tracks and leave permanent marks.