What's inside
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A wooden tool tray is a useful first project because it needs only straight cuts, shallow grooves, and careful assembly. This version has two wooden handles that slide along grooves in the end supports. You can move them closer to the center for a light load or farther apart for better balance with heavier tools.
Contents
Project Overview
The finished tray is approximately 20 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 5 inches tall. It is large enough for screwdrivers, pliers, a tape measure, and a small cordless drill without becoming awkward to carry. The handles are 1-inch-diameter dowels, each passing through a slot in an end panel. The slots let the handles move about 3 inches.
| Material | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2-inch plywood | Flat, stable, inexpensive, and easy to cut | Edges need covering or sanding; less decorative |
| 3/4-inch pine boards | Simple solid-wood look and easy edge shaping | Can warp or split; heavier than plywood |
| Hardwood | Durable and attractive | Costs more and is unnecessary for a first tray |
For a beginner, 1/2-inch plywood for the bottom and 3/4-inch pine for the sides is the sensible combination. A small birch plywood sheet is usually flatter and cleaner than construction plywood, but ordinary sanded plywood is fine if the tray will live in a workshop.
Materials and Tools
Buy or cut the following pieces:
- One bottom, 20 by 10 inches, from 1/2-inch plywood
- Two long sides, 20 by 4 inches, from 3/4-inch stock
- Two end panels, 8 1/2 by 4 inches, from 3/4-inch stock
- Two 1-inch-diameter hardwood dowels, each 14 inches long
- Wood glue, 1 1/4-inch brad nails or screws, and 120- and 220-grit sandpaper
You will need a tape measure, square, pencil, drill, clamps, and a saw. A jigsaw makes the sliding slots easy, although a drill and handsaw can do the same job. A basic woodworking clamp set is worth buying if you do not already have clamps. Cheap clamps are adequate here; the joints do not require extreme pressure.
Cut and Mark the Parts
Cut the bottom first and check that it is square. If the bottom is out of square, the side panels will pull the entire tray out of alignment. Cut the long sides to 20 inches and the end panels to 8 1/2 inches. The shorter end-panel length allows the long sides to overlap their edges and produces an outside width close to 10 inches.
On each end panel, mark a horizontal slot 1 1/4 inches down from the top edge. Make the slot 1 1/8 inches wide and 3 inches long. The extra width gives a 1-inch dowel about 1/16 inch of clearance on each side. Round the slot ends with a compass or a small coin. Keep both slots at exactly the same height; mismatched slots make one handle sit crooked.
Drill a hole at each marked slot end, then remove the waste between the holes with a jigsaw. Sand inside the slots until the dowels slide without binding. Do not make the slots excessively loose. More than about 1/8 inch of side-to-side play will make a loaded tray rattle and feel unstable.
Assemble the Tray
Sand the inside faces and top edges before assembly. They are easier to reach now than after the tray is joined. Apply a thin bead of glue to the bottom edge of one long side, position it flush with the bottom and end of the plywood, and clamp it. Drive brads or screws every 5 to 6 inches. If using screws, drill pilot holes first to prevent the pine from splitting.
Attach the second long side in the same way. Then fit the end panels between them. Check the outside corners with a square and measure diagonally across the tray. The two diagonal measurements should be within 1/8 inch. If they differ more, push the tray square before the glue sets.
Wipe away squeezed-out glue with a damp cloth. Dried glue blocks stain and leaves shiny patches under clear finish. Let the assembly cure for at least 30 minutes before removing the clamps, or follow the glue manufacturer’s timing if the shop is cold.
Fit the Sliding Handles
Round over the ends of the dowels with sandpaper. Test each dowel in both slots. It should slide with firm hand pressure but not drop through when the tray is tilted. If a dowel sticks, sand the slot lightly rather than immediately enlarging it with a power tool. Sawdust or a small glue bead is often the real problem.
Center each dowel in its slot and mark the position where you want a retaining washer or stop. The simplest stop is a short 1-inch-diameter wooden disk glued to each outside end of the dowel. You can cut disks with a hole saw or use small wooden knobs. Leave enough clearance for the handle to slide freely. A stop on the inside of each end panel is also useful because it prevents the handle from rubbing against the tray contents.
Do not glue the dowels to the end panels. That defeats the sliding feature. If the handles move too freely, add thin wooden or nylon washers between the dowel stops and the panels. If they bind after finishing, lightly sand the inside of the slots and apply a small amount of paste wax.
Sand and Finish
Sand the tray with 120-grit paper, then finish with 220 grit on the hand-contact surfaces. Break every sharp corner, especially the top edges and handle ends. A small 1/8-inch roundover is enough; a full router profile is optional.
For a workshop tray, wipe-on polyurethane or hardwax oil gives better protection than paint with less effort. Apply two or three thin coats, sanding lightly between coats as directed. Keep finish out of the sliding slots. If you prefer paint, prime the plywood edges first because they absorb paint unevenly.
A water-based polyurethane finish dries quickly and keeps the wood fairly light. The cheaper option—ordinary interior polyurethane—is perfectly fine if drying time is not important. Avoid leaving a thick finish buildup around the slots, where it can reduce clearance.
Test the Tray Safely
Load the tray gradually. Start with about 10 pounds, lift it by both handles, and check for flexing, loose joints, or dowels pulling against the slot ends. Increase the load only if everything remains solid. This is a small shop carrier, not a certified lifting device; do not use it for heavy machinery, sharp unsecured tools, or overhead work.
The most common failure is a loose handle caused by oversized slots. Add washers or make replacement end panels if the movement is excessive. Cracked end panels usually result from driving fasteners too close to an edge, so keep fasteners at least 3/8 inch from the edges and drill pilots. If the tray rocks on a flat surface, check for glue bumps or a warped bottom before trying to shorten any panel.
Store the tray with the handles near the center when empty. Slide them outward when carrying an uneven load, keeping the heavier tools between the handle positions. That small adjustment is the useful feature that makes this project more practical than a fixed-handle box.