What's inside
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This recipe stand holds an open book or tablet at a comfortable reading angle, while a splined base keeps its two feet aligned and adds a visible detail. The project suits a beginner who can make accurate crosscuts and use a table saw or router for the spline slots. Allow about one afternoon, plus glue-drying time.
Contents
Dimensions and design
The stand is sized for a typical cookbook, with a 10-inch-wide back, a 3-inch-deep ledge and a 6-inch-deep base. The back leans about 15 degrees from vertical. Adjust the width for your largest book; leave at least an inch of clearance on each side.
Use straight-grained hardwood such as maple, cherry or oak for the back and base. A stable softwood works too, though it dents more easily. The splined base is made from two cross-lapped pieces, joined at the center with a spline across the joint. That reinforcement is useful because the narrow base pieces take leverage when someone turns a page or moves the stand.
Materials and tools
You’ll need a board at least ¾ inch thick for the back, two base pieces about ¾ by 1½ by 6 inches, and a small piece of hardwood for the spline. A ¼-inch-thick spline is a practical starting point. Also gather wood glue, sandpaper from 120 to 220 grit, and a clear finish suitable for indoor use.
Useful tools include a square, saw, clamps, drill, and a table saw or router with a straight bit for cutting the spline slot. A basic woodworking clamp set is handy for this and other small projects. If you don’t own a slot-cutting setup, ask a shop to cut the slot or use a commercial metal brace instead; don’t try to guide a small workpiece freehand past a running blade.
Cut list and joint options
Cut the back to 10 by 12 inches, the ledge to 10 by 1½ inches, and the base pieces to 6 inches long. These dimensions are starting points, not fixed rules. A heavier cookbook may need a deeper base or a small rear foot to prevent tipping.
| Base approach | Advantages | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Splined cross-lap | Strong, neat joint; spline can contrast with the base | Requires accurate slots and careful fitting |
| Glue-only cross-lap | Cheapest and simplest if the fit is tight | Less reinforcement; small gaps weaken the joint |
| Two screwed feet | Fast, easy to repair | Visible fasteners; screws can loosen in end grain |
A glue-only joint is fine for a light stand that won’t be moved often, provided the mating faces fit closely. Choose the spline if you expect regular handling or want a more durable joint. A hardwood project board can save milling time, but check it for twist and cracks before buying.
Make the back and ledge
Mark the back’s lower edge and round its upper corners with a cup or compass. Cut just outside the line, then sand to the mark. Ease the edges with sandpaper so they won’t catch pages. The back can be one solid board or several narrow boards edge-glued together; if laminating, keep the grain direction consistent and clamp on a flat surface.
Center the ledge along the bottom front edge of the back. Apply a thin, continuous layer of glue and clamp it square. Drill two pilot holes from the rear and add 1¼-inch screws if you want extra security. Keep the screws clear of the ledge’s top edge, where they could split the wood. Wipe away squeeze-out before it hardens.
To set the reading angle, attach a rear support strip or hinged prop to the back. A simple fixed strip glued and screwed near the lower rear edge gives a consistent lean; test its position with the stand on a flat surface before fastening. The feet should sit flat, and the back should not rock when you press lightly on the ledge.
Cut and fit the splined base
Mark the midpoint of each 6-inch base piece. Cut a half-lap notch at each midpoint: remove material equal to half the thickness of each piece, over a width matching the other piece. For ¾-inch stock, each notch is about ⅜ inch deep. Sneak up on the fit with test cuts; the pieces should meet flush without forcing them.
Dry-fit the cross-lap and check it on a flat surface. Mark a centered spline slot across the joint, then cut a slot about ⅛ inch wider than the spline stock and roughly 1 inch long. The slot should cross the seam and extend into both pieces. Use a push block and secure the work with a jig or clamps. Never hold a short piece near an exposed blade by hand.
Cut the spline slightly thicker than the slot, then plane or sand it until it fits snugly without hammering. A loose spline won’t reinforce the joint; an oversized one can split the base. Apply glue inside the slot and on the cross-lap faces, seat the spline, and clamp the assembly flat. After the glue cures, trim the spline flush and sand the base. If you want a contrasting accent, a small dark hardwood offcut makes a simple spline, though matching wood is equally sound.
Assemble, finish and test
Attach the base to the rear support with glue and two pilot-drilled screws, or use a small housed joint if you prefer to avoid visible hardware. Position it so the stand sits level and the book’s weight falls over the footprint. Let glue cure according to its label, typically overnight.
Sand through 120, 180 and 220 grit, removing dust between grits. Apply two or three thin coats of wipe-on oil or water-based polyurethane, following the product directions. A water-based polyurethane finish dries relatively quickly and keeps pale woods light; oil-based finishes usually add a warmer tone but take longer to dry.
Set the stand on a level counter and load it with your heaviest cookbook. If it tips when you touch a page, widen the base or move the support farther back. If the book slides, add a thin strip of cork to the ledge. Check the spline for gaps before finishing; glue and sanding dust can hide a poor fit, but they won’t restore strength.