What's inside
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A small firewood bin keeps a few fires’ worth of splits close to the stove without taking up much floor space. This version has a slatted front to hold the wood, open sides for airflow, and handles cut into the side panels so it is easy to move when empty. The finished bin measures about 24 inches wide, 16 inches deep, and 20 inches tall.
Contents
Size and capacity
Those dimensions suit a short indoor stack of split firewood, not a full season’s supply. A cubic foot of dry firewood can weigh roughly 20 to 40 pounds, depending on species and moisture, so a loaded bin may be awkward to lift. The handles are useful for carrying the empty bin or shifting it a few inches; move a full bin by sliding it, or unload it first.
Check your stove clearance requirements before choosing a location. Keep the bin away from the stove’s hot surfaces and follow the appliance manufacturer’s guidance for combustible materials. This design is intended for dry, indoor storage, not for holding wet wood outdoors.
Materials and tools
Use kiln-dried pine or another straight, dry softwood for an inexpensive build. Cedar costs more and resists decay better, but that advantage matters little indoors if the bin stays dry. Avoid pressure-treated lumber for indoor firewood storage. Inspect boards for splits, loose knots, and twist before buying; badly cupped stock makes a box difficult to square.
You’ll need three 1-by-8 boards at 8 feet long for the side panels, bottom, and front slats, plus one 1-by-2-by-8-foot board for the bottom cleats. Actual board dimensions are typically about ¾ by 7¼ inches and ¾ by 1½ inches. Also gather 1¼-inch exterior-rated screws, wood glue, sandpaper, a saw, drill/driver, square, clamps, and a tape measure. A jigsaw makes the handholds easier to cut. If you lack one, a basic woodworking jigsaw is sufficient; a premium model is unnecessary for this project.
Cut list
| Part | Quantity | Cut size | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Side panels | 2 | 20 × 16 inches | Ends, with handholds |
| Bottom boards | 2 | 22½ inches long | Floor; rip each to about 4½ inches wide |
| Front slats | 3 | 22½ inches long | Retain wood while allowing airflow |
| Bottom cleats | 2 | 14½ inches long | Support the floor boards |
The 22½-inch pieces fit between the side panels, giving a 24-inch outside width. Measure your actual lumber and dry-fit the pieces before assembly; nominal board sizes are not exact. If your boards are narrower than expected, adjust the slat gaps rather than making the bin wider by accident.
Cut and prepare the parts
Mark matching side panels together and cut them to 20 by 16 inches. On each panel, lay out a centered handhold about 5 inches long and 1½ inches tall, with its lower edge around 13½ inches above the bottom. Round the ends of the opening and leave at least 2 inches of wood above it and 3 inches below it. A smaller opening is easier to cut and leaves more strength around the handle.
Drill a starter hole inside each marked opening, cut to the line with a jigsaw, then sand the inside edges smooth. Wear eye protection and clamp the panel securely; a jigsaw can snag if the board is unsupported. Sand the cut pieces to remove splinters, especially around the handles and front slats.
Assemble the bin
Mark a line ¾ inch up from the bottom edge on the inside face of each side panel. Center one bottom cleat on each panel’s width, with its top edge at that line. Apply a thin layer of glue and fasten each cleat with two screws from the outside. Drill pilot holes first to reduce splitting. Check that the cleats are level with each other before the glue sets.
Stand the panels upright, parallel and 22½ inches apart. Place the two bottom boards across the cleats with roughly ½-inch gaps between them. Screw through the boards into the cleats using two screws per board at each end. The gaps let dust fall through and help air circulate; boards without gaps are fine if you prefer to keep small bark pieces contained, but the bottom will stay dirtier.
Attach the three front slats across the side panels. Set the bottom slat about 1 inch above the floor, then space the remaining slats evenly, leaving gaps of about 1½ to 2 inches. Keep the top slat below the top edge of the sides. Use two screws at each end of every slat, and predrill near the board ends. These gaps improve airflow but can let narrow pieces fall out; reduce them to about 1 inch if you mostly store small splits.
Before driving the final screws, measure diagonally from corner to corner across the front. If the two measurements differ, push the longer diagonal inward until the box is square. A bin assembled out of square can rock on the floor and put uneven strain on the handle cutouts.
Finish and use
For indoor use, a light sanding and a clear water-based finish are optional. Leave the bin unfinished if you want the simplest, cheapest build; unfinished pine will work, but it may pick up stains and splinters more easily. If applying finish, coat all faces and let it cure fully before loading wood. Avoid a thick film finish where logs will scrape regularly, since it can chip.
Set the bin on a level floor and load it without forcing logs against the slats. Check the screws after the first few weeks of use. If a slat loosens, empty the bin, drill a new pilot hole slightly offset from the old one, and refasten it. For a more weather-resistant finish on a covered porch, use an exterior-rated coating, but keep the bin under cover; finish alone will not prevent water from collecting in the bottom gaps.