What's inside
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A folding book stand is useful at a desk, kitchen counter, or workbench, but a shallow ledge alone won’t keep a book from sliding when the stand is tilted. This plan adds a low front lip and an adjustable backstop: a wooden prop that braces the rear panel at different angles. The project uses basic hand tools, common lumber, and a pair of hinges.
Contents
Dimensions and design
The stand has three parts: a book-support panel, a hinged bottom ledge, and a separate backstop prop. Start with a support panel 12 inches wide by 14 inches tall, a size that handles most cookbooks and medium hardcovers. Make the ledge 12 inches long, 1 inch deep, and about ¾ inch high. A taller lip may hide text near the bottom of a small book.
The prop is a 1½-by-¾-inch strip, about 12 inches long, hinged to the back of the panel near its lower edge. It fits into a row of shallow notches on a crosspiece attached to the stand’s rear feet. The notches set the reading angle. This arrangement folds flat, costs little to make, and avoids a locking mechanism that can pinch fingers or loosen over time.
Materials and tools
Use ¾-inch plywood for the support panel and ¾-inch solid wood or plywood scraps for the ledge, prop, and rear feet. Birch plywood is smooth and stable; pine is cheaper and easy to cut, though it dents more readily. Avoid warped stock, especially for the panel, because twist can make the book rock.
You’ll need two small butt hinges for the ledge, one hinge for the prop, screws, wood glue, sandpaper, and a saw. A drill with a countersink bit makes assembly easier. A small butt-hinge assortment is convenient if you don’t already have hinges, but inexpensive hinges are adequate for a light stand. For cutting the notches, a handsaw and chisel work; a basic wood chisel set is useful for other shop projects too.
Cut and prepare the parts
Cut the panel to 12 by 14 inches and the ledge to 12 by 1½ inches. Round the panel’s upper corners slightly to reduce sharp edges. Cut two rear feet, each about 1½ inches wide by 8 inches long. These sit vertically behind the panel, one near each side, and provide a stable base when the stand is open.
Cut the prop to 12 inches long. Smooth all edges with 120-grit sandpaper, then finish with 180 grit. Check that the panel lies flat on a bench. If it has a slight bow, orient the convex side toward the back; a book’s weight may help flatten a mild bow, but don’t rely on it to correct a badly warped panel.
Attach the folding ledge
Center the ledge along the panel’s lower edge, with its bottom flush to the panel’s bottom. Place the two hinges on the rear face, spaced about 3 inches in from each end. Predrill screw holes to prevent splitting, especially in plywood edges, and use screws short enough not to break through the front surface. Test the hinge action before tightening everything.
The ledge should fold down against the panel’s face when stored and swing out to about 90 degrees for use. If it binds, loosen the screws slightly or reposition the hinge leaves; forcing a misaligned hinge can strip the holes. Add a small stop block behind the ledge if the hinges allow it to swing past level under load.
Make the adjustable backstop
Attach the rear feet to the back of the panel, parallel to its sides and set in about 1 inch from each edge. Their lower ends should extend roughly 2 inches below the panel. Glue and screw them in place, predrilling first. Join the feet with a crosspiece about 2 inches above their lower ends; this is where the prop will rest.
Mark three notches across the crosspiece, spaced about 1 inch apart. Each notch should be roughly ⅜ inch wide and ¼ inch deep—wide enough to hold the prop without letting it skate out. Cut the notches with a saw and chisel, keeping their bottoms flat. Fit the prop’s lower end into each notch in turn. If it rocks or slips, deepen the notch slightly; a notch that is too deep makes the stand harder to fold and can weaken the crosspiece.
Hinge the prop to the back of the panel, centered side to side, with its free end pointing down toward the crosspiece. Use a small hinge and short screws. Open the stand and test all three positions with a book on the ledge. A steep position suits upright reading; a lower position is more stable for heavy books. Keep the prop clear of the rear feet so it can fold flat.
Compare the backstop positions
| Position | Approximate panel angle | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front notch | About 65° | Cookbooks and upright reading | More height, less resistance to a forward bump |
| Middle notch | About 55° | General reading and tablets | Balanced comfort and stability |
| Rear notch | About 45° | Heavy books or a low desk | Uses more desk depth |
These angles are approximate; the actual result depends on the feet length and notch placement. If you want a different range, move the crosspiece rather than making the notches excessively deep. Put the stand on a level surface and press gently near the top. If it slides, add thin cork or rubber pads under the feet. These are inexpensive and usually solve a slick-desk problem without changing the design.
Finish and test
Ease sharp edges with sandpaper and apply a thin coat of wipe-on oil or water-based finish. Let it dry fully before placing a book on the stand. For kitchen use, choose a finish that can be wiped clean, but keep finish off hinge pivots if it causes them to stick.
Test with the heaviest book you expect to use. Open and fold the stand ten times, checking for loose screws, hinge binding, or a prop that jumps out of its notch. If the panel flexes, add a narrow brace across its back; if the ledge bends, replace it with thicker stock rather than adding a large front lip. A stand that closes flat and holds its chosen angle securely is ready for regular use.