What's inside
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A small cedar chest is a useful first cabinet project: it has straight sides, a simple bottom, and a lid that doesn’t require hinges. This plan makes a chest about 18 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 10 inches tall. The lid lifts off for access, so there’s no hardware to fit or pinch fingers. Use it for linens, keepsakes, or dry storage—not as a bench or toy box.
Contents
Size, materials, and tools
The finished outside dimensions are approximately 18 × 12 × 10 inches, including a ¾-inch-thick lid. The box itself is 9¼ inches tall. These dimensions can change, but keep the side panels square and the lid overhang modest so it remains easy to lift.
Buy straight, dry cedar boards rather than choosing by color alone. Clear western red cedar is attractive and light; knotty cedar usually costs less, but loose knots can break out during cutting and leave weak edges. For a first build, select boards wide enough to yield the panels without gluing up multiple narrow strips. A cedar board selection is a practical starting point; check actual thickness and width because nominal lumber sizes are smaller than their labels.
| Material or option | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| ¾-inch cedar boards | Light chest with simple butt joints | Easy to work, but edges can split if fasteners are driven carelessly |
| ½-inch cedar boards | Very light storage box | Needs more careful joinery and can rack more easily |
| Plywood bottom | Fast, flat interior floor | Visible plies at the edge unless covered |
| Solid cedar bottom | All-wood appearance | Must be allowed to move seasonally |
You’ll also need wood glue, a saw, drill/driver, square, clamps, measuring tape, and sandpaper. A pair of bar clamps helps keep the box square while the glue sets. If you don’t own a table saw, a circular saw and straightedge are adequate for these short cuts.
Cut list
Start with boards that are a true ¾ inch thick. Cut two long sides at 18 inches by 9¼ inches and two ends at 10½ inches by 9¼ inches. The ends fit between the long sides, making the assembled outside width 12 inches. Cut the lid to 19½ by 13½ inches for a ¾-inch overhang on all sides.
For the bottom, cut ½-inch plywood to 16½ by 10½ inches. That size fits inside the box at the bottom if you install cleats along the lower inside edges. Cut four cedar cleats about ½ inch square and 16½ inches long for the long sides and 10½ inches for the ends, trimming as needed for a snug fit. Alternatively, use a solid-wood bottom, but don’t glue it rigidly across the grain; seasonal movement can split the box.
Measure the actual assembled opening before cutting the bottom. Lumber thickness varies, and a bottom that is even ⅛ inch too large can force the sides out of square.
Assemble the box
Dry-fit the four sides on a flat surface. Check that the corners meet tightly and compare the two diagonal measurements; if they match, the box is square. Apply a thin film of glue to the end grain of the short panels, then clamp the sides together. Drill pilot holes before driving 1¼-inch screws through the long sides into the ends. Cedar splits readily near an edge, so keep holes at least ⅜ inch from the edge and don’t overtighten. A countersink bit keeps screw heads from tearing the surface.
Check square again before the glue sets. A box that dries out of square will make the lift-off lid rock or bind. Wipe away squeezed-out glue with a damp cloth, then leave the clamps on for the time listed on the glue label.
Glue and pin the cleats inside the box, about ¾ inch above the lower edge. Use short brads or screws, and keep their tips clear of the outside face. Set the plywood bottom on the cleats. If you want to be able to replace it later, fasten it with screws rather than glue. The bottom should sit flat without bowing; trim an oversize panel instead of forcing it into place.
Fit the lift-off lid
Sand the box top flat, then center the lid and check the overhang on all four sides. A ¾-inch overhang is enough to grasp without making the lid look top-heavy. If the lid slides around, add two small cedar locating blocks underneath, positioned just inside the box opening. Leave roughly 1⁄16 inch of clearance on each side; a tight fit can stick when humidity changes.
Ease sharp edges with 120-grit sandpaper, then finish with 180 grit. Don’t round the lid’s lower locating blocks enough to make them loose. A lid that lifts off cleanly is the point of this design; skip permanent hinges unless you’re prepared to add a stop or lid support. A heavy lid can slam shut and injure fingers.
Finish, storage, and safety
Cedar’s scent comes from its natural oils, so many people leave the interior unfinished. Sand it smooth and vacuum away dust. For a finished exterior, use a thin coat of a clear, compatible wood finish and test it on a cutoff first; some finishes deepen cedar’s color. Let the finish cure fully before storing textiles, and avoid placing unfinished cedar directly against delicate fabric if the wood is rough or resinous.
Wear eye protection when cutting and drilling, and use dust collection or a suitable mask while sanding. Cedar dust can irritate skin and lungs. Keep the chest for storage rather than sitting: ¾-inch butt joints and a plywood bottom are not designed to carry a person’s weight.