What's inside
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Contents
Project overview
This wooden sorting tray is a useful beginner project for fall. It gives children a place to separate acorns, leaves, pinecones, and other small finds, while giving you practice with straight cuts, drilling, sanding, and a simple finish. The tray is a shallow box with three compartments and a carrying handle.
The finished tray measures about 18 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 2 inches deep. It is large enough for collecting and sorting without becoming awkward to carry. Build time is roughly three to five hours, not counting finish drying time. The design uses 1/2-inch-thick boards and does not require a table saw.
Materials and tools
Use clear pine, poplar, or a straight-grained hardwood such as maple. Pine is the cheapest and easiest to find, but soft edges dent more easily. Poplar costs more and usually paints well. Hardwood makes a more durable tray but adds weight and expense.
| Material | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Pine | Lowest-cost painted or lightly used tray | Soft, knotty boards can split and dent |
| Poplar | Smooth painted finish | Costs more and can show green or gray coloring under clear finish |
| Maple or other hardwood | Long-lasting natural finish | More expensive and less forgiving when drilling |
Buy one 1-by-10 board at least 4 feet long, or use boards that are actually close to 1/2 inch thick and 10 inches wide. Nominal lumber sizes vary, so measure before cutting. You will also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch brad nails or small screws, 120- and 180-grit sandpaper, a drill, a 1-inch drill bit, clamps, and a saw. A set of small woodworking clamps is useful, but heavy-duty clamps are unnecessary for this light project.
For cutting, a miter saw is convenient but not required. A circular saw with a straightedge guide works well. If you do not own one, a fine-tooth wood handsaw is a perfectly reasonable cheaper option for four short cuts.
Cut list
Cut the following pieces:
- Bottom: 18 by 10 inches, one piece
- Long sides: 18 by 2 inches, two pieces
- Short ends: 9 by 2 inches, two pieces
- Dividers: 9 by 1 1/2 inches, two pieces
These dimensions assume 1/2-inch material. The short ends fit between the long sides, making the outside width 10 inches. The dividers are slightly shorter than the sides so they sit inside the tray without forcing the walls apart. If your stock is thicker or thinner, keep the bottom at 18 by 10 inches and adjust the short-end length so it equals the bottom width minus twice the actual side thickness.
Prepare and sand the pieces
Mark each piece on the back with its job. Check the boards for bowing before cutting; a bowed side can leave gaps that glue will not fix. Lightly sand both faces and all edges with 120-grit paper, then remove the dust. Do not round every edge at this stage. Keeping the edges reasonably square helps the box assemble accurately.
Ease the exposed top edges with a few passes of sandpaper. A sharp 1/2-inch edge is uncomfortable to carry and more likely to chip. If children will use the tray, spend extra time on corners and inspect for splinters by running a clean cloth over each surface.
Assemble the tray
Start by attaching the long sides to the bottom. Apply a thin bead of glue along the bottom edge of each side, align it flush with the long edges of the base, and clamp it in place. Drill 1/16-inch pilot holes through the side and into the bottom every 5 to 6 inches. Drive the brads or screws, keeping fasteners at least 3/8 inch from the ends.
Attach the short ends next. Apply glue to their bottom and end edges, fit them between the long sides, and check that the top edges are level. Clamp and fasten them with two or three brads or screws per joint. Wipe away squeezed-out glue immediately; dried glue can prevent stain from penetrating evenly.
Measure the inside length and divide it into three sections. For an 18-inch tray made with 1/2-inch sides, the inside length is about 17 inches. Place the two dividers approximately 5 2/3 inches apart, measured from the inside of the end wall. Adjust their positions if you want one larger compartment for pinecones. Glue the divider ends and bottom, then pin them with one fastener at each end. Use a square or a scrap block to keep them perpendicular while the glue sets.
Add a simple carrying handle
Mark the center of each short end, 1 inch below the top edge. Drill a 1-inch hole through both end boards. A spade bit is inexpensive, but it can tear out the back of the board. Clamp a scrap of wood behind the end you are drilling, and reduce pressure as the bit breaks through. A Forstner bit leaves cleaner holes but costs more; it is worthwhile if you already have one.
Sand the hole edges thoroughly. For a simpler alternative, skip the through-handle and attach a small wooden knob to the top of each end. That version is easier to make but less comfortable when the tray is full.
Finish and seasonal use
Let the glue cure according to its label, then sand the assembled tray with 120-grit followed by 180-grit paper. Do not use a power sander aggressively on the thin boards; it is easy to dish the bottom or soften one corner more than another.
For a natural look, apply two thin coats of water-based polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats. For a child-friendly activity tray, water-based paint is easier to clean and dries faster than oil-based paint. A water-based clear finish is the better choice when you want to see the wood and avoid strong lingering odor. Let the finish cure fully before use, not merely until it feels dry.
Keep the tray for dry objects. Damp leaves and acorns can stain unfinished wood and encourage mold. Empty it after each outing and wipe it with a barely damp cloth. Do not store wet material in the compartments overnight.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most common failure is splitting at the ends. Pilot holes prevent this, especially in hardwood and near board corners. Another problem is a tray that rocks because the bottom was cut slightly out of square. Check the diagonals before fastening: measure corner to corner in both directions, and adjust until the measurements match closely.
If the tray feels too heavy, use 1/4-inch plywood for the bottom and keep the 1/2-inch side pieces. If it flexes, add a narrow cleat underneath each long side. These changes are optional; for ordinary fall collecting, the basic design is strong enough and the cheaper pine version is entirely suitable.