What's inside
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A board-game collection outgrows a shelf quickly. Boxes vary in size, loose cards disappear into the wrong game, and stacked games are awkward to reach. This cabinet solves those problems with adjustable shelves and sliding dividers that keep each game upright. It is a practical intermediate woodworking project: the cuts are straightforward, but accurate dados, square assembly, and smooth-fitting dividers matter.
Contents
Project overview
The cabinet shown here is 36 inches wide, 30 inches high, and 14 inches deep. It holds two rows of games, with each row divided into adjustable compartments. The depth suits most standard board-game boxes without wasting much floor space. Increase the width for a larger collection, but do not make a single shelf longer than about 30 inches unless you increase its thickness or add a center support.
| Material choice | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4-inch plywood | Stable, strong, and available in large sheets | Edges need banding or a solid-wood trim |
| 3/4-inch pine boards | Easy to cut and inexpensive in small quantities | Can warp, cup, or shrink seasonally |
| 1/2-inch plywood | Lighter and cheaper | More shelf sag and less durable screw holding |
For most builders, 3/4-inch sanded plywood is the sensible choice. A cabinet-grade sheet costs more than construction plywood, but it saves filling voids and sanding rough faces. Construction plywood is fine for a painted cabinet if its layers are intact and reasonably flat.
Materials and tools
Buy one 4-by-8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood for the carcass, shelves, and dividers. You will also need a 1/4-inch plywood back, approximately 10 feet of 1/4-by-3/4-inch hardwood for shelf-edge strips, wood glue, 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws or confirmat screws, and finish nails or brads for the back. Add adjustable shelf pins if you want to change shelf heights later.
A circular saw with a guide works, but a table saw makes repeatable strips easier. A router or dado blade helps with the shelf grooves, though you can use shelf pins instead. Helpful purchases include a straight-edge saw guide and a hinge boring jig if you add doors.
Cut list
Cut the following from 3/4-inch plywood: two sides at 30 by 14 inches, a top and bottom at 36 by 14 inches, two fixed shelves at 34 1/2 by 13 1/2 inches, and four adjustable dividers at 13 1/2 by 10 inches. Cut two horizontal shelves at 34 1/2 by 13 1/2 inches if you want three vertical levels rather than two.
The 34 1/2-inch shelf length fits between the 3/4-inch sides inside a 36-inch cabinet. Confirm your plywood thickness before cutting; nominal 3/4-inch material can measure 23/32 inch. If your sheet is thinner, adjust the shelf length so the fit is snug without forcing the sides apart.
Build the cabinet carcass
Mark the inside faces of both side panels together so the shelf locations match. For fixed shelves, cut 1/4-inch-deep dados, or use pocket holes from the outside. Dados provide better resistance to racking, while pocket holes are faster and completely adequate for a painted cabinet. Keep the lower shelf about 2 inches above the bottom to leave room for a base trim.
Apply glue to the shelf ends, assemble the sides, and check the diagonals before tightening the screws. The two diagonal measurements should be within 1/8 inch. If they differ more, push the longer diagonal corner inward until the box is square. A cabinet that is slightly out of square will make sliding dividers bind later.
Attach the top and bottom between the sides. Install a 1/4-inch plywood back with glue and brads, checking square again as you fasten it. The back is not just a dust cover; it prevents the cabinet from racking. If the cabinet will be freestanding, fasten it to a wall stud with an anti-tip strap after installation.
Make the sliding dividers
Each divider is a vertical panel that sits in a pair of shallow tracks. For the most reliable system, cut 1/4-inch-wide by 1/8-inch-deep grooves across the front and rear edges of each shelf. Rout matching grooves in the bottom of each divider, leaving a 1/16-inch clearance on both sides. The divider should slide freely but not wobble.
A simpler alternative is to screw or glue narrow hardwood runners to the shelves. This avoids routing but reduces usable width and creates a small lip that can catch box corners. Use solid hardwood for runners, not soft packing strips, because repeated sliding will compress soft wood.
Make the dividers 10 inches tall for the dimensions above. Measure your largest games first. Leave at least 1 inch of vertical clearance above a box so it can be removed without scraping the shelf above. If you own unusually tall games, make the lower opening 13 inches high and shorten the divider accordingly.
Sand, finish, and install
Sand visible surfaces to 180 grit. Ease every exposed edge with one or two light passes; sharp plywood corners chip easily. Apply iron-on edge banding, thin hardwood strips, or filler to the front plywood edges. Edge banding is quickest, while solid strips withstand more abuse from sliding boxes.
For a painted cabinet, use a plywood-compatible primer, sand lightly, and apply two finish coats. For a clear finish, water-based polyurethane dries quickly and keeps the wood light. Oil-based polyurethane gives more working time and a warmer color but requires stronger ventilation and longer drying. Test the finish on scrap because plywood veneers can vary significantly.
Install the cabinet on a level surface. If the floor is uneven, use thin shims under the bottom rather than forcing the sides square. Load heavy games on the lower shelf. Even a well-built cabinet can become unstable when several dense boxes are stored high, so anchor it to the wall rather than relying on its weight.
Skill and seasonal notes
This is a good winter shop project when indoor work is more convenient, but allow plywood and hardwood to acclimate for several days before cutting. Wood stored in a cold garage can change dimension after entering a heated room. In humid summer conditions, leave the sliding dividers slightly loose; a perfect dry-season fit may bind as the wood gains moisture.
Beginners can skip dados, use shelf pins, and build the cabinet from prefinished plywood. That version is faster and easier to repair, though screw holes and exposed edges require more attention. Experienced woodworkers may add doors, a face frame, or a shallow drawer for dice and card sleeves. Do not add doors until the carcass is square—hinges cannot compensate for a twisted cabinet.