What's inside
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This compact patio side table is a useful beginner-to-intermediate project: it has a slatted top for quick drainage, a simple apron for stiffness, and four legs that can be cut from standard lumber. The finished table is about 20 inches wide, 20 inches deep, and 22 inches tall. That height works beside a low outdoor chair, but you can change the leg length to suit your furniture.
Contents
Materials and tools
Use outdoor-rated wood, not ordinary interior pine, unless the table will stay under a covered porch. Cedar is light and naturally rot resistant. Pressure-treated pine is cheaper and durable, but it is usually wetter, rougher, and more likely to twist as it dries. Redwood is attractive and stable, though typically more expensive. For a straightforward build, buy:
- Four 2×2 boards for the legs, each at least 24 inches long
- Two 1×4 boards for the apron, or one 1×6 board ripped to width
- Four or five 1×4 boards for the slatted top
- Exterior-rated screws, 1-1/4 and 2-1/2 inches long
- Exterior wood glue, optional for the apron joints
- Sandpaper in 80, 120, and 180 grits
For the top, straight cedar decking or common cedar boards are good choices. If you use pressure-treated lumber, wear a dust mask when cutting and let the wood dry before applying finish. A box of exterior wood screws is more useful here than a large set of specialty fasteners.
| Wood choice | Advantages | Drawbacks | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cedar | Light, easy to cut, naturally rot resistant | Soft and can dent; often has knots | Most attractive all-around choice |
| Pressure-treated pine | Low cost and widely available | Wet, heavy, prone to movement | Budget table or hidden location |
| Redwood | Stable, attractive, rot resistant | Higher price and less available | Higher-finish project |
You need a saw, drill/driver, 1/8-inch drill bit for pilot holes, tape measure, square, clamps, and a random-orbit sander. A 5-inch random-orbit sander saves time, but sanding by hand is perfectly adequate for one small table.
Cut list and layout
Cut the legs to 21 inches. Cut two long apron pieces to 16-1/2 inches and two short apron pieces to 13-1/2 inches. This creates an apron box roughly 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 inches when using 3/4-inch-thick boards. The legs will sit at the corners, with the apron between them.
Cut four 1×4 top slats to 20 inches. Four boards provide 14 inches of solid width. Add three 1/2-inch gaps and the top is about 15-1/2 inches wide, leaving a small overhang beyond the apron. If you want a wider top, use five slats and reduce the gaps to about 3/8 inch. Lay the boards out before cutting; a warped board may be better used as a short apron piece.
Build the apron
Set the legs on a flat surface and mark a line 2 inches down from their top ends. The top of the apron will meet this line, leaving the legs projecting 2 inches above the frame. That projection supports the top and gives the table a built-in lip.
Clamp one long apron between two legs, keeping its upper edge on the marks. Drill two pilot holes through the apron into each leg, then drive two 2-1/2-inch exterior screws per joint. Keep the screws centered across the leg so they do not split the edge. Assemble the second long side, then fit the short aprons between them.
Check the frame for square by measuring both diagonals. If the measurements differ by more than 1/8 inch, push the longer diagonal inward until they match. Add screws to the short aprons only after the frame is square. Glue is optional outdoors; screws provide the real holding power, and glue joints can fail when wood repeatedly gets wet and dry.
Attach the slatted top
Place the top slats across the frame, perpendicular to the long aprons. Use 1/2-inch spacers between boards; a scrap of plywood cut to that width works well. Keep the overhang even on all four sides. A typical overhang is about 1-3/4 inches from the outside of the apron to the edge of the slat.
Drill two pilot holes through each slat into each long apron. Use one screw near each edge, staying at least 3/4 inch from the ends to avoid splitting. Drive 1-1/4-inch screws until the heads are flush, not buried. If the boards are cupped, place the crown upward and clamp the board flat while fastening it. Do not force a badly twisted slat into place; it will pull the frame out of square.
For a cleaner look, use exterior-grade pocket-hole screws to attach the apron from the inside. This hides most fasteners, but it requires a pocket-hole jig and leaves less adjustment during assembly. Standard face screws are cheaper and stronger than necessary for this small table.
Sand and finish
Ease every sharp corner with 80- or 120-grit paper, especially the top edges and leg ends. Sand flat faces through 120 and finish at 180 grit. Do not polish outdoor cedar excessively; very smooth surfaces can hold finish unevenly, while a 120- to 180-grit surface provides good adhesion.
Brush off dust and apply an exterior penetrating oil or a film-forming exterior stain. Clear finishes require more maintenance because ultraviolet light turns bare wood gray and breaks down the coating. Paint gives the best color coverage but can peel if moisture is trapped in end grain. Seal the bottom of each leg and all freshly cut ends, which absorb water faster than face grain.
Seasonal care and fixes
Let the table dry after rain instead of covering it immediately with a waterproof tarp. Trapped moisture encourages mildew. At the start of each outdoor season, tighten loose screws and inspect for cracked slats, especially if the table was built from pressure-treated pine. If a gap closes during wet weather, do not force the boards apart; wood movement is normal. If a slat splits, replace it rather than adding more screws close to the crack.
For winter, store the table under cover or raise it on blocks so the legs do not sit in standing water. A simple table cover is useful in wet climates, but ventilation matters more than a tight seal.