What's inside
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Spring is a good time to learn cedar and cypress because both woods are easy to work, resist outdoor moisture, and look better with age than most treated lumber. They are not interchangeable, though. Cedar is usually lighter, softer, and easier to find. Cypress is often tougher and more stable, but its price and availability vary by region.
The best learning projects are small enough to finish in a weekend. You want exposed joinery, a limited number of parts, and enough outdoor use to reveal mistakes without turning the project into an expensive rebuild.
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Contents
Choosing Between Cedar and Cypress
| Material | Best use | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cedar | Planters, birdhouses, screens, small furniture | Light, easy to cut, widely available, naturally rot resistant | Soft surface dents easily; boards can split near screws |
| Cypress | Planters, benches, shutters, outdoor boxes | Good decay resistance, durable, often more stable than cedar | Can cost more; grain and thickness vary by supplier |
For a first project, buy straight boards with consistent thickness and avoid pieces with large loose knots. A 1-by-6 board is usually about 3/4 inch thick and 5 1/2 inches wide, but measure before cutting. Outdoor lumber is rarely dimensionally exact.
Use stainless-steel or coated exterior screws. Ordinary steel fasteners can leave black stains in cedar and cypress, especially after repeated wetting. A box of stainless-steel exterior wood screws costs more, but it prevents a common and ugly failure.
Beginner Project: Cedar Window Box
A window box teaches measuring, repeated cuts, predrilling, and drainage. Build one about 24 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. That size is manageable, but it still exposes problems with square assembly.
Cut the front and back from 1-by-8 stock at 24 inches. Cut the ends at 7 1/4 inches if the box will sit between the front and back boards. Cut the bottom from 1-by-6 stock at approximately 22 1/2 inches, then test-fit it before fastening.
- Dry-assemble the four sides on a flat surface. Check that the ends are flush and the box is square.
- Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes before driving 1 1/4-inch exterior screws. Cedar splits easily when screws are driven close to an edge.
- Install the bottom with a small gap at each end or drill six to eight 3/8-inch drainage holes.
- Sand the exposed edges with 120-grit paper, then smooth sharp corners with a light pass of 180-grit.
- Mount it with two or three heavy brackets screwed into wall framing, not just siding.
The common failure is a waterlogged box. Drain holes alone are not enough if the box sits tight against a wall. Leave at least 1 inch behind it for airflow, and line the interior with landscape fabric without blocking the drainage holes. A cheaper pine box can work if it is painted thoroughly, but it will generally require more maintenance and may rot at the bottom within a few seasons.
Beginner Project: Cypress Birdhouse
A birdhouse uses little material and teaches accurate drilling. Use 3/4-inch cedar or cypress, with a floor about 4 by 4 inches and side panels roughly 6 inches tall. The entrance-hole diameter should match the intended bird species; a 1 1/8-inch opening suits some small wrens, while a 1 1/2-inch opening admits larger species.
Cut the front and back panels with a simple angled roof line. A 20- to 30-degree roof pitch is sufficient. Drill the entrance before assembly, using a sharp bit or hole saw. Tear-out around the hole is reduced by clamping a scrap board behind the panel.
Do not add a perch. Perches make it easier for predators and competing birds to reach the nest. Attach one side with screws instead of glue so it can open for cleaning. Drill two 1/4-inch ventilation holes near the upper sides and raise the house at least 5 feet above ground.
For this project, a wood hole saw kit is useful if you expect to build several houses. For one house, a spade bit is cheaper and perfectly adequate.
Intermediate Project: Cedar Herb Planter
An herb planter with three compartments is a practical step up from a box. Build it about 30 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 8 inches high. Use 1-by-6 boards for the sides and dividers, then add two 1-by-4 cleats underneath to lift the bottom off the ground.
Cut the long sides to 30 inches and the ends to 8 1/2 inches, depending on your measured board width. Install dividers at roughly 10-inch intervals. Do not assume the spacing is correct based only on a tape measure; place the dividers in the assembled frame and adjust them so the compartments are equal.
Use 1 1/4-inch screws for the sides and 1-inch screws where the fastener enters a thin bottom board. Predrill every hole within 3/4 inch of an end. Cedar and cypress both hold screws reasonably well, but neither forgives overdriving. If the screw head sinks more than 1/16 inch, the surrounding fibers can crush and collect water.
Line the planter only if the liner allows drainage. Plastic sheeting with no holes creates a bathtub. A better setup is a breathable fabric liner over a slatted bottom, or no liner at all with a replaceable layer of potting soil.
Advanced Project: Cypress Garden Bench
A simple garden bench introduces structural joints and seasonal movement. Build a 42- to 48-inch seat from three 1-by-6 boards, supported by two leg assemblies. Keep the seat 17 to 18 inches high and the total depth around 15 to 17 inches.
Use through-bolts or exterior structural screws for the leg assemblies. Ordinary deck screws are suitable for attaching seat boards, but they are not a substitute for proper structural fasteners at the legs. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between seat boards so rain can escape.
Do not glue wide outdoor panels edge-to-edge. Cedar and cypress expand and contract across their width. Fasten each seat board independently, using elongated holes or loose enough positioning to allow movement. A rigid, fully glued seat can split or pull its fasteners when spring rain is followed by direct sun.
Ease every exposed corner with a 1/8-inch roundover bit or sandpaper. A penetrating exterior wood finish can slow discoloration, but it will not make the bench maintenance-free. Leave the wood unfinished if you prefer a silver-gray surface, and expect to clean it periodically with mild soap and a soft brush.
Spring Building Checklist
Let new boards acclimate under cover for several days before cutting. Keep them flat with stickers between layers, but do not wrap them tightly in plastic. Work on dry days when possible; wet wood produces inaccurate cuts and traps moisture under finishes.
Before assembly, sand cut ends and seal end grain if the project will remain outdoors. End grain absorbs water faster than the board faces and is a frequent starting point for rot. Finally, place every project so water drains away from it. Good design and airflow matter more than applying extra coats of finish.