What's inside
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A sewing notions tray is a small project with a useful payoff: it keeps scissors, clips, pins, and thread close at hand without letting them mix together. This version has a shallow wooden box and two lift-out dividers, so you can rearrange the compartments or take one out while sewing. The dimensions below fit on a typical worktable and can be adjusted to suit your tools.
Contents
Dimensions and layout
The finished tray measures about 14 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 2 inches tall. It has a fixed perimeter and two removable divider panels that run across the width. Set them at different positions to make one long compartment for scissors and two smaller spaces for notions, or space them evenly for three compartments.
Use 1/2-inch-thick stock for the sides and dividers, and 1/4-inch plywood for the bottom. These proportions keep the tray light while giving the divider slots enough depth to hold the panels upright. If your scissors are longer than 9 inches, check the inside length before cutting.
Materials and tools
You’ll need one board of clear pine, poplar, or a similar straight-grained hardwood, plus a piece of 1/4-inch plywood. A 1×4 board is usually enough for the sides and dividers, provided it is flat and free of large knots. Pine is inexpensive and easy to cut; poplar dents less readily but costs more. Avoid warped stock, since even a slight bow can leave gaps at the corners.
Useful tools include a saw, square, drill or brad nailer, clamps, and sandpaper. A table saw makes repeatable grooves, but a router with a straight bit and edge guide can also cut them. If you don’t own either, see the hand-tool option below. A combination square is handy for checking layout lines and keeping cuts square; a basic, accurate square is fine for this project.
| Groove-cutting method | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Table saw with dado blade | Repeatable slots and several trays | Fast and consistent, but requires the right setup and blade |
| Router with straight bit | One tray or a shop without a dado set | Works well with a guide, but needs careful depth control |
| Two saw cuts and chisel | Occasional projects and limited tools | Cheapest option, but slower and more likely to leave uneven slots |
Cut the parts
Cut the long sides to 14 inches and the end pieces to 9 inches. With 1/2-inch-thick sides, the end pieces fit between the long sides, giving an outside width of 10 inches. Cut two divider panels to 9 inches wide and about 1 1/2 inches tall. The bottom should be 13 inches by 9 inches, sized to fit inside the box.
Before assembly, dry-fit the sides around the bottom. If the plywood is slightly oversized, trim it until it sits flat without forcing the sides outward. A tight, bowed fit can pull the box out of square during glue-up.
Make the lift-out slots
Mark two matching slot positions on the inside face of each long side. Put the slots about 3/8 inch above the bottom edge, and space them to create the compartments you want. For a flexible layout, try one slot 4 inches from an end and the other 9 inches from the same end. Mark the same distances on both sides from the same reference end.
Cut each slot 1/2 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep. Test the fit on an offcut first. The divider should slide in without hammering but should not wobble noticeably. If the slot is too tight, pare it with a chisel or sand the divider edge. If it is too loose, a thin strip of veneer glued to one edge can take up the gap. Keep the slots level with each other; misaligned grooves make the divider lean.
Without a dado blade or router, make two parallel saw cuts at each slot’s edges, then remove the waste with a sharp chisel. Work slowly and check the width often. A shallow, clean slot is better than cutting too deep and weakening the side.
Assemble the tray
Sand the inside faces and the bottom edges of the sides before assembly; they’re harder to reach later. Apply a thin bead of wood glue to the short ends of the side pieces, then clamp the ends between the long sides. Check both diagonals. If the measurements match within about 1/8 inch, the box is close enough to square for a utility tray.
Fasten the corners with 1-inch brad nails or small screws. Predrill if using screws, especially in pine, to reduce splitting. Slide the plywood bottom into place from below or set it into a shallow rabbet if you have cut one. Glue and pin it to the box. The bottom helps keep the tray square, so check the diagonals again before the glue sets.
Ease sharp edges with 120-grit sandpaper, then sand to 180 grit. Don’t round the divider edges much; excessive rounding makes them fit loosely in the slots.
Finish and use
Apply two light coats of water-based polyurethane or a wipe-on oil finish, sanding lightly between coats if the surface feels rough. Keep finish out of the slots and off the divider edges until you’ve tested the fit; a thick coating can make a previously smooth divider stick. For a tray that may collect loose pins, avoid a rough finish that catches thread and fabric.
Use small removable cups or a pincushion inside a compartment for tiny items. The lift-out dividers are useful for changing the layout, but they are not locked in place; don’t carry a loaded tray by one divider. If the panels rattle, add a thin felt strip to one face or make replacement dividers a fraction wider. For a neater edge or a more durable surface, a water-based polyurethane finish is a practical choice. For a tray kept indoors and handled gently, a simple oil finish is also adequate.