What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A hanging towel bar is a useful first woodworking project: it needs only a short board, a dowel, and a few basic cuts. This plan makes a wall-mounted bar about 16 inches wide, with the towel hanging roughly 2 inches away from the wall so it can dry. Adjust the length to suit your kitchen, but check the wall and towel size before cutting.
Contents
Choose a design and materials
The simplest version uses two wooden end brackets with a horizontal dowel between them. A ¾-inch-thick board gives the brackets enough strength for ordinary kitchen towels. For the bar, a ¾-inch hardwood dowel is easy to find and comfortable to use. Pine is inexpensive and works well indoors; maple, oak, or birch are harder and tend to resist dents better.
Buy a straight, smooth dowel rather than using a thin scrap rod. A ½-inch dowel can flex if the span is long or the towel is pulled sharply. For a 16-inch span, ¾ inch is a practical size. A ¾-inch hardwood dowel is a sensible starting point if local stores do not stock one.
Materials and tools
You will need a ¾-inch-thick board at least 3½ inches wide and about 8 inches long for the brackets, a ¾-inch dowel about 18 inches long, wood glue, and two screws long enough to fasten the bar to the wall framing. For drywall-only mounting, use suitable anchors instead of relying on short screws in gypsum board.
Useful tools include a saw, drill, ¾-inch drill bit or Forstner bit, ruler, square, clamps, and sandpaper. A drill press makes the bracket holes easier to keep aligned, but a hand drill and careful marking are adequate. A ¾-inch Forstner bit leaves a clean, flat-bottomed hole; an ordinary sharp bit is cheaper and fine if you can drill squarely.
Compare bar options
| Bar material | Cost and effort | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hardwood dowel | Low cost; minimal shaping | A quick, clean build | Available sizes and species vary |
| Square wood strip | Often cheapest if you have scraps | Rustic or workshop-style kitchens | Edges can snag fabric unless rounded |
| Metal rod | Requires compatible brackets | When you want a slimmer profile | May need different tools and fittings |
A round wooden dowel is the easiest option for this plan. Use a square strip only if you round its edges well; sharp corners can catch towel loops and fray cloth over time.
Cut and drill the brackets
Cut two bracket blanks, each 3½ inches tall by 2½ inches wide. Mark the center of each blank, then mark a hole center 1¾ inches from the top and centered across the width. Drill a ¾-inch hole at each mark. Test the dowel in the holes before assembly: it should slide in with light pressure, not rattle or require hammering. If the fit is loose, glue can help, but a hole that is substantially oversized is better remade.
Round the outside corners with a saw or sandpaper and smooth every edge with 120-grit paper, followed by 180 grit. Keep the two brackets the same shape. Small differences can leave the bar tilted, especially if the dowel holes are not level.
Assemble and finish
Cut the dowel to 16 inches, then dry-fit it between the brackets. The brackets should sit at the ends of the dowel with the bar projecting about ½ inch beyond each one. Apply a thin coat of wood glue inside the holes and on the dowel ends, assemble, and clamp gently. Wipe away squeeze-out before it dries. Check that the brackets are parallel and the bar is level; excessive clamp pressure can shift the parts.
Sand the assembled piece with 180 grit and remove dust. A clear water-based finish is easy to apply and dries relatively quickly. Two thin coats are usually more reliable than one heavy coat; follow the finish label for drying and curing times. Leave the bar uninstalled until the finish has cured so it does not stick to packaging or transfer tacky finish to a towel. In a low-splash kitchen, unfinished wood can work, but it will absorb moisture and show grime sooner.
Mount it safely
Hold the bar against the wall at a comfortable reach, usually around 36 to 42 inches above the floor, then check that a towel will not touch the counter or stove. Mark the bracket screw holes and use a level before drilling. Fastening at least one bracket into a wall stud is preferable. If the stud spacing does not match the brackets, use wall anchors rated for the load and wall type; ordinary plastic plugs are not a dependable choice in crumbly plaster or damaged drywall.
Use screws that pass through the ¾-inch bracket and enter the stud by roughly 1½ inches. That usually means screws around 2¼ inches long, but account for any wall finish or spacer behind the bracket. Drill pilot holes to reduce the chance of splitting the wood. Tighten the screws snugly rather than forcing them until the bracket bows.
Troubleshooting and adjustments
If the bar sits crooked, the likely cause is mismatched bracket-hole heights or uneven mounting marks. Loosen the screws, level the bar, and remark the holes rather than trying to bend the brackets into place. If the dowel turns or slips, pull it out if possible, clean away loose glue, and reassemble with fresh glue. A small pin through the bracket into the dowel can add security, but it is unnecessary for a normal towel.
For a wider bar, increase the dowel length but do not simply extend the span indefinitely: a long dowel is more likely to flex when pulled. Add a center support for spans above about 24 inches, or choose a thicker bar and sturdier brackets. For a rental or tiled wall, avoid drilling without checking the surface and mounting rules; a removable adhesive hook may be easier, though it is less suitable for a rigid wooden bar.