What's inside
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A vertical planter is a useful weekend woodworking project when floor space is limited. This design holds four removable pots in a narrow wooden frame, so you can lift plants out for watering, rearranging, or replacing. It works on a patio, balcony, porch, or beside a shed. The frame is straightforward to build, but drainage, outdoor finish, and secure mounting determine whether it lasts more than one season.
Contents
Project Overview
The planter described here is about 24 inches wide, 10 inches deep, and 48 inches tall. It uses four 8-inch nursery pots or similar plastic pots, stacked vertically with about 8 inches between centers. The pots sit in wooden support rings or shelves rather than being permanently enclosed. That keeps the structure lighter and makes seasonal changes easy.
| Material choice | Advantages | Drawbacks | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cedar | Rot-resistant, light, easy to work | Costs more; can split near screws | Unpainted outdoor planters |
| Pressure-treated pine | Affordable and widely available | Heavy, wet when new, less attractive | Budget builds and hidden framing |
| Untreated pine | Cheap and easy to cut | Rot can appear quickly outdoors | Covered locations or short-term use |
For most builders, 1-by-8 cedar boards are the best balance. Use pressure-treated lumber for the rear cleats if the planter will sit directly on damp ground. The pots should be plastic, not ceramic: wet soil makes ceramic pots heavy and increases the chance that a shelf or support will fail.
Materials and Tools
For one planter, buy two 1-by-8-by-6-foot cedar boards, one 1-by-4-by-6-foot board for shelves and braces, exterior screws, waterproof wood glue, and four 8-inch plastic nursery pots. A set of 8-inch plastic nursery pots is usually cheaper than buying decorative containers individually.
You will also need a tape measure, square, pencil, circular saw or miter saw, drill/driver, 1/8-inch drill bit, 1/4-inch drill bit, clamps, sandpaper, and a paintbrush. A hole saw sized slightly smaller than the pot’s rim can make circular supports, but it is not essential. The simpler approach is to build each shelf as a small platform with a large opening cut using a jigsaw.
Use exterior-rated deck screws about 2 inches long. Ordinary drywall screws rust quickly outdoors and are brittle under twisting loads. Stainless screws are preferable near sprinklers or salt air, but coated exterior screws are fine for a sheltered patio.
Cut List
Cut the following pieces:
- Two side boards, 48 inches long by 7-1/4 inches wide.
- One top board, 24 inches long by 7-1/4 inches wide.
- One bottom board, 24 inches long by 7-1/4 inches wide.
- Four shelf supports, 20 inches long by 3-1/2 inches wide.
- Four rear cleats, 7-1/4 inches long by 3-1/2 inches wide.
The actual width of a nominal 1-by-8 board is normally 7-1/4 inches. Check your lumber before cutting. A plastic pot listed as 8 inches may measure 8-1/2 inches across its rim, so measure the actual pots and size each shelf opening 1/4 to 1/2 inch smaller than the rim. The pot should hang by its rim without binding.
Build the Main Frame
Set the two side boards parallel on a flat surface. Position the top and bottom boards between them, flush with the ends, and check that the assembly is square by comparing diagonal measurements. Apply glue to the end grain, drill pilot holes, and drive two exterior screws through each side board into the top and bottom pieces.
Do not rely on glue alone at these joints. End grain absorbs glue and provides a weak bond, especially outdoors. If the diagonals differ by more than 1/8 inch, push the frame into alignment before tightening the screws.
Mark shelf positions at 8, 18, 28, and 38 inches up from the bottom. These marks indicate the centerline of each pot. Leave enough space above the top pot for watering and enough room below the bottom pot for airflow. Attach the four rear cleats across the back at the shelf levels, using two screws into each side. The cleats stiffen the frame and give the shelves something solid to bear against.
Make the Removable Pot Shelves
Center one pot on each 20-inch shelf support and trace around the outside of its lower body, not the rim. Cut the opening with a jigsaw. Start with a smaller hole; enlarging it is easy, while a hole cut too large cannot be repaired neatly. Sand the cut edge thoroughly so it does not scrape the pot.
Fit each shelf between the side boards and against its rear cleat. Fasten the shelf with one screw through each side board, but do not glue it. The shelves are removable if a damaged shelf needs replacement or if you want to clean behind the pots. Test every pot before applying finish. It should drop in freely and stop at the rim without rocking badly.
If you prefer a faster build, skip the openings and make each shelf a flat platform. This is stronger and easier to cut, but the pots can slide forward when the planter is bumped. Add a 3/4-inch front lip to each platform if you choose this option.
Weatherproofing and Drainage
Round over or sand all exposed edges, especially the top corners. Apply two coats of an exterior wood sealer or exterior paint to every face, including end grain and the inside edges of the pot openings. Seal the bottom edges particularly well; they receive splashback and often stay wet.
Do not drill drainage holes in the wooden frame. The removable pots should handle drainage, and water must be able to escape through their existing holes. Put a saucer or drip tray beneath the lowest pot if the planter is on a deck. Avoid permanently trapping saucers inside the frame, where standing water can rot the wood.
Mounting and Seasonal Use
A watered 8-inch pot can weigh 10 to 15 pounds. Four pots may place 40 to 60 pounds on the frame, before wind loads. Set the planter on a level surface and anchor it to a wall or railing with two brackets if it is taller than 36 inches. Use suitable masonry anchors for brick or concrete; do not count on short screws in siding.
Keep the heaviest plants in the lower positions. Herbs, lettuce, and strawberries suit the upper shelves, while tomatoes or larger peppers belong near the bottom. In spring, start with cool-season greens; replace them with basil, peppers, or trailing flowers after the last frost. Lift pots out before hard freezes if they contain plants with roots that are not winter-hardy.
Common Failures to Avoid
The most common problem is a shelf opening that is too large. Measure the pot rim and leave at least 1/4 inch of bearing surface all around. Another failure is racking caused by an unsecured frame. Add the rear cleats and check the diagonals before installing shelves.
Finally, do not place untreated pine directly on wet concrete or soil. The cheaper lumber is acceptable under a covered porch if it is sealed on all sides, but cedar or pressure-treated material is the safer choice for exposed weather. Inspect the screws, finish, and shelf joints at the start of each growing season.