What's inside
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A cedar butterfly feeder is a simple weekend project: a shallow food tray, a small hanging roof, and a way to suspend the assembly from a branch or shepherd’s hook. The roof keeps rain off the food without blocking butterflies, while cedar holds up better outdoors than untreated pine.
This feeder is designed for overripe fruit, which attracts many butterflies more reliably than homemade sugar water. Use bananas, oranges, melons, or a small amount of fruit juice. The feeder should be placed in a sunny, sheltered location where you can replace food and clean the tray easily.
Contents
Materials and design choices
Use untreated, rot-resistant cedar. A 1-by-6 cedar fence board is inexpensive and wide enough for most parts, though its actual thickness is usually about 5/8 inch. Clear cedar is easier to work with and has fewer knots, but a sound fence board is perfectly adequate for this project.
| Part | Suggested size | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Feeder base | 12 by 8 inches | Supports fruit and gives butterflies landing space |
| Roof panel | 14 by 10 inches | Shields food from rain and harsh sun |
| Roof supports | Two pieces, 8 inches long | Hold the roof above the tray |
| Hanging arm | One piece, 12 inches long | Provides a central suspension point |
You will also need exterior-rated screws, two small eye screws, galvanized wire or chain, and four shallow stainless-steel or plastic dishes. Dishes are easier to clean than a wood tray and prevent acidic fruit from sitting directly on the cedar. A pack of stainless steel shallow dishes works well, although inexpensive plastic saucers are fine if they are food-safe and replaced when they become brittle.
Tools and cutting
Gather a tape measure, pencil, square, drill, 1/8-inch drill bit, screwdriver, and sandpaper. A circular saw makes the cuts quick, but a handsaw is sufficient for cedar. Use a dust mask when cutting or sanding; cedar dust can irritate skin and lungs.
Cut the base to 12 by 8 inches. Cut the roof to 14 by 10 inches so it overhangs the base by about 1 inch on each side. Cut two roof supports to 8 inches. For a clean appearance, cut the supports from 1-by-2 stock, or rip strips from the fence board if you have a table saw.
Cut the hanging arm to 12 inches. The arm will run across the top of the supports and provide a place to attach the suspension wire. If you want a wider, more visible feeder, increase the base and roof dimensions, but keep at least 2 inches of open air between the food and the roof.
Assemble the feeder
Sand all cut edges with 120-grit paper, followed by 180-grit if you want a smoother finish. Round over sharp corners slightly. Do not use pressure-treated lumber, reclaimed wood with unknown chemicals, or painted scraps for surfaces that may contact food.
Position the two roof supports on the base, one near each short end. Set them about 1 inch in from the edges and center them from front to back. Drill pilot holes, then fasten each support with two exterior screws. Cedar splits easily, especially near its ends, so do not skip the pilot holes.
Place the hanging arm across the tops of the supports. Center it from side to side, drill pilot holes, and attach it with two screws at each end. Check that the structure sits square. If the supports lean, the roof will hang crooked and may collect rain on one side.
Center the roof over the supports. You can fasten it permanently with screws, but a removable roof makes cleaning easier. A practical option is to attach the roof with two small hinges at the back and add a short latch or hook at the front. Use small stainless-steel outdoor hinges if the feeder will stay outside year-round.
Add the hanging hardware
Drill a pilot hole near each end of the hanging arm and install two eye screws. Keep them at least 1 inch from the ends to reduce splitting. Connect the eyes to a short piece of chain or wire, forming a level triangle above the feeder. Attach a third hook or carabiner at the top.
A single central eye screw can also work and costs less, but the feeder may spin in wind. Two suspension points keep the roof facing the same direction and make the feeder more stable. Choose galvanized outdoor hanging chain rather than thin craft wire, which rusts quickly and can cut into a branch.
Finish and weatherproof the cedar
Leave the inside of the feeder unfinished. Cedar naturally tolerates weather, and food-contact surfaces are easier to clean when they are not coated. If desired, apply a water-based exterior finish only to the outside of the roof and supports. The cheaper option—leaving the whole feeder bare—is fine for a one- or two-season project and avoids finish maintenance.
Do not use glossy paint on the food area. A bright roof is not necessary, and some finishes can peel into the dishes. If you finish the exterior, let it cure completely according to the product instructions before adding food.
Place and use the feeder
Hang the feeder 4 to 6 feet above the ground in morning or early afternoon sun. Choose a spot near flowers, shrubs, or a garden edge, but avoid placing it directly beside a busy doorway. Butterflies need warmth to fly, yet the food should have some afternoon shade so it does not spoil immediately.
Put a small amount of overripe fruit in the dishes. Start with one banana slice, an orange half, or a few melon cubes rather than filling every dish. Replace fruit every day in hot weather and at least every two days in mild weather. Remove anything moldy or fermented.
Clean the dishes with hot, soapy water before refilling. Wipe the cedar base and roof supports occasionally, and inspect the screws and hanging wire at the start of each season. The most common failure is a roof that traps rainwater against the base; keep the roof overhang generous and make sure the feeder hangs level. Another is attracting ants or wasps. If that happens, reduce the food amount, move the feeder several feet, and clean any spilled juice from the wood.