What's inside
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This plan makes a sturdy storage ottoman with a plywood box and a hinged lid. The example finished size is 30 inches long, 18 inches wide, and about 18 inches high. Adjust the dimensions to suit your room, but keep the lid overhang and hinge placement in mind before cutting. The build is manageable with a circular saw or track saw, a drill, and basic measuring tools.
Contents
Choose a size and materials
A 30-by-18-inch top gives useful seating and storage without making the lid awkward to lift. This plan uses 3/4-inch plywood for the sides and lid, with a 1/4-inch plywood bottom set inside the box. At 17 1/4 inches high, the box plus the 3/4-inch lid comes to about 18 inches overall.
Buy a flat sheet of 3/4-inch cabinet-grade or sanded plywood. A lower-cost construction panel can work if it is flat and you plan to paint it, but voids in its inner plies can weaken screw joints or show along exposed edges. For a cleaner finish, edge banding or solid-wood strips can cover the plywood edges. Use 1/4-inch plywood for the bottom; it is lighter and cheaper than a thicker panel, though it should be supported on all four sides.
You’ll also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, sandpaper, finish, and a pair of butt hinges. A 3/4-inch sanded plywood panel is a practical choice if the ottoman will be visible and painted or clear-coated.
| Choice | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Construction plywood | Painted projects on a tight budget | More surface defects and possible inner-ply voids |
| Sanded plywood | Paint or a simple clear finish | Costs more; faces still need sanding and edge treatment |
| Cabinet-grade plywood | Visible furniture with a cleaner finish | Higher cost; careful cutting is still needed to avoid chipped veneer |
Cut list for a 30-by-18-inch ottoman
Cut these pieces from 3/4-inch plywood: two sides at 30 by 17 1/4 inches, and two ends at 16 1/2 by 17 1/4 inches. The end pieces fit between the sides, making the assembled box 30 by 18 inches. Cut the lid at 31 by 19 inches to leave a 1/2-inch overhang on each edge. Cut the bottom from 1/4-inch plywood at 28 1/2 by 16 1/2 inches.
Measure your actual plywood thickness before cutting. A nominal 3/4-inch sheet may be slightly thinner, which affects the box width and bottom fit. The bottom dimensions above leave a small clearance; test-fit it and trim if needed. If you want the bottom flush with the box’s lower edge, attach narrow cleats inside the box to support it. Otherwise, install the bottom as a panel near the bottom edge, supported by screws through the sides.
Assemble the box
Mark the side and end pieces clearly so you don’t mix them up. Drill pilot holes through the outside faces of the long sides and into the edges of the end pieces. Space screws about 4 inches apart, keeping them at least 3/8 inch from the plywood edges. A countersink bit helps the screw heads sit flush. Apply a thin bead of glue to each joint, bring the box together, and check for square by measuring both diagonals. If the diagonal measurements differ, shift the box until they match before tightening the screws.
Once the box is square, attach the bottom. For a simple, low-cost build, screw it to the lower edges of all four walls. This works for blankets and light household storage, but the bottom edge will be visible and may catch on the floor. For a neater, stronger result, screw 3/4-by-3/4-inch cleats inside the box, about 1/2 inch above the lower edge, and fasten the bottom panel to them. This takes more time and slightly reduces storage depth, but keeps the panel off the floor and transfers weight to the cleats.
Don’t rely on glue alone for a box that may be moved or sat on. Screws reinforce the joints; pilot holes help prevent splitting and bulging plywood layers.
Fit the hinged lid
Sand the box edges and test the lid overhang before attaching hardware. For two standard butt hinges, place them about 3 inches in from each end along one long edge. Mark their positions, then use a chisel to make shallow recesses so the hinge leaves sit nearly flush. This takes longer than surface mounting, but it reduces the gap and helps the lid close evenly. Use screws sized for the hinge and plywood; overly long screws can poke through or split the lid.
A lid can slam shut and pinch fingers. If children will use the ottoman, install a lid support rated for the lid’s weight, or choose a purpose-made soft-close hinge. Check the product’s stated lid size and weight limits before buying; hardware intended for a small toy box may not control a large plywood lid. A soft-close toy-box lid support costs more than basic hinges but addresses the most serious safety issue. If using plain hinges, don’t treat the lid as child-safe or leave it propped open unattended.
Sand and finish
Sand faces with 120-grit paper, then 180-grit. Ease sharp corners lightly; rounded edges are less likely to splinter, but heavy sanding can make the lid look uneven. Fill screw heads and visible gaps with paintable filler if painting. For clear finish, use filler that matches the wood or accept that filled spots may remain visible.
Apply finish to the inside as well as the outside, following the label for drying and ventilation. Paint hides mismatched plywood and is forgiving of patches. Clear finish shows the grain but also reveals glue smears and uneven sanding, so wipe away squeeze-out before it dries. Add felt pads under the box if it will sit on a finished floor. Before loading it, check that the box doesn’t rock, the lid clears all four sides, and every hinge screw is tight.