What's inside
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A compact cedar bench gives people a place to sit near the fire without taking up much yard space. This design is 48 inches long, 14 inches deep and about 17 inches high—wide enough for two adults, but small enough to move when you need to clear the area. It uses common lumber and straightforward cuts, so a careful beginner can build it in an afternoon.
Contents
Design and placement
The bench has a slatted seat supported by two solid end frames. Cedar resists rot better than untreated pine, but it is not fireproof: keep the bench at least 3 feet from the fire pit, or farther if the pit maker specifies a larger clearance. Sparks can scorch or ignite dry wood. Check local fire rules, and don’t use the bench as a place to set hot cookware.
Before cutting, check the seat height against the pit and the people who will use it. The 17-inch finished height suits many adults; add an inch or two if the seat will sit on soft ground or you prefer an easier rise. Set the bench on level, stable ground, not where rainwater pools.
Materials and tools
Buy straight, dry cedar with as few large knots as possible, especially for the legs and seat supports. A cedar 1-by-4 board search can help you compare available sizes, but check the actual dimensions: a nominal 1-by-4 is usually about ¾ by 3½ inches. You’ll need roughly 30 board feet, depending on stock length and defects.
Gather a tape measure, square, saw, drill/driver, ⅛-inch drill bit, clamps, exterior-rated screws and sandpaper. A stainless-steel exterior screw search is useful if the bench will stay outdoors year-round. Cedar’s tannins can react with ordinary steel and leave dark stains. Coated deck screws are a cheaper option and generally fine, though damaged coatings may rust over time.
Cut list and layout
Use cedar boards about 1½ inches thick for the end frames and rails, and ¾-inch stock for the seat slats. Cut the following pieces:
| Part | Quantity | Cut length |
|---|---|---|
| Legs, 1½-inch stock | 4 | 16¼ inches |
| End-frame rails, 1½-inch stock | 2 | 11 inches |
| Long seat rails, 1½-inch stock | 2 | 45 inches |
| Seat slats, ¾-inch stock | 4 | 48 inches |
Each end frame’s rail fits between a pair of legs. With the ¾-inch seat slats resting on the frames, the total height is approximately 17 inches. The 11-inch end rail leaves room for a 14-inch-deep seat with a modest overhang. Dry-fit the parts and confirm the seat width and height before driving screws; lumber thickness varies.
Build the end frames
Lay two legs parallel on a flat surface, with 11 inches between their inside faces. Position an end rail between them, about 2½ inches below the leg tops. This leaves space for the slats and keeps the rail away from the ground. Check that the frame is square, then drill pilot holes and secure the rail with two 2½-inch exterior screws at each end.
Repeat for the second frame. Pilot holes matter in cedar: screws driven near an edge can split the wood, particularly in dry or knotty stock. If a leg splits, replace it rather than trusting a screw to pull the crack closed. Clamp each joint while fastening so the rail does not shift.
Attach the rails and seat
Stand the end frames 45 inches apart, measured between the faces where the long rails will sit. Attach one long rail to each side, flush with the top of the end-frame rails. Use two screws per joint, drilling pilots first. Measure diagonally from corner to corner; matching diagonal measurements show that the base is square. Correct a rack before adding the slats.
Center the four 48-inch slats across the base, leaving roughly ¾ inch of overhang at each end. Space them evenly with gaps of about ⅜ inch for drainage. A scrap spacer makes this quicker and more consistent. Fasten each slat into both long rails with one screw at each support, using pilot holes. Keep screw heads flush, not buried deeply enough to trap water.
Sand, finish and maintain
Ease sharp edges with 80-grit sandpaper, then smooth the seat and corners with 120-grit. A wood-sanding assortment is handy if you lack suitable sheets. Wear a dust mask while sanding; cedar dust can irritate skin and lungs. Don’t round edges so much that the slats lose useful thickness.
Leaving cedar unfinished is a valid low-cost choice. It will weather toward gray, and the surface may need more frequent cleaning, but no coating means no peeling finish to maintain. For a richer color, use a penetrating exterior oil or stain labeled for cedar and follow its recoat schedule. Film-forming paint or varnish can crack and peel outdoors if moisture gets under it.
Once or twice a year, check for loose screws, splinters and soft spots. Replace any board that has begun to rot, and store or cover the bench during long wet periods if practical. The design is simple to repair: individual slats can be swapped without rebuilding the frame.