What's inside
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A tea cabinet is a useful first furniture project if you keep the case square and the trays simple. This version has two shallow sliding trays behind a hinged front, with room for tea bags or small tins. It uses plywood for the case and solid wood for the tray sides and face frame. Allow a weekend for the build, plus time for glue and finish to cure.
Contents
Dimensions and design
The example cabinet measures 16 inches wide, 12 inches tall, and 8 inches deep. Each tray is about 14 1/2 inches wide, 6 1/2 inches deep, and 1 1/4 inches tall. Adjust the dimensions to fit your counter or tea collection, but keep the cabinet depth at least 1 inch greater than the tray depth so the trays can clear the front.
The trays ride on wooden runners attached to the cabinet sides. This is quieter and cheaper than metal slides, but it needs accurate, parallel runners. For trays you expect to load heavily or pull out often, ball-bearing slides are smoother and more forgiving of wear.
Materials and tools
Buy a half sheet of 1/2-inch cabinet-grade plywood for the top, bottom, sides, back, and trays. Use 3/4-inch-thick hardwood or plywood for the face frame and 1/2-inch stock for tray sides. A straight-grained hardwood such as maple or poplar works well. Poplar is less expensive and fine under paint; maple is harder and gives a cleaner clear finish.
You will also need wood glue, 1-inch brad nails or screws, sandpaper, and a small knob or pull. A circular saw with a straightedge guide is enough to break down the panels; a table saw makes repeat cuts easier. A set of 24-inch bar clamps helps keep the case square during assembly. If you do not own a saw, a lumberyard can often make rough cuts for a small fee, but confirm dimensions before leaving.
| Runner style | Cost and effort | Best fit |
|---|---|---|
| Wooden runners | Low cost; require careful fitting and smooth surfaces | Light trays and a traditional, quiet cabinet |
| Side-mount ball-bearing slides | Higher cost; need clearance on both sides and accurate installation | Frequent use or heavier tins |
Cut the parts
Cut the two sides to 12 by 8 inches, and the top and bottom to 15 by 8 inches. These dimensions make a 16-inch-wide case when the sides sit between the top and bottom. Cut the back to 16 by 12 inches from 1/4-inch plywood. Check that the two sides match within 1/32 inch; unequal sides can make the cabinet lean or bind the trays.
Cut the tray bottoms to about 14 1/2 by 6 1/2 inches and the sides to match. Dry-fit the pieces before assembly and check that each tray is at least 1/8 inch narrower than the clear opening. Leave roughly 1/16 inch of side clearance per side for wooden runners. A tight fit may bind when the wood swells with seasonal humidity.
Assemble the case
Mark the inside faces of both cabinet sides for the runners. Place the lower tray runner about 2 inches above the bottom and the upper runner about 6 1/2 inches above it. Use a spacer block to position matching runners at the same height. Glue and pin or screw them in place, checking with a level or straightedge that each pair is parallel.
Spread glue on the ends of the top and bottom panels, fit them between the sides, and clamp the case. Measure both diagonals across the front; if they differ by more than 1/8 inch, adjust the clamps until they match. Attach the back while the case is square. It acts as a brace, so do not skip it or nail it on with the cabinet twisted.
Build and fit the trays
Glue and pin the tray sides around each bottom panel. Keep the tray sides square to the bottom and use a small square to check the corners. Sand the runner-contact surfaces and the runners to 180 grit. Rub a little paste wax on the runners for smoother movement; avoid oily lubricants, which can stain tea packaging and collect dust.
Slide each tray in and out before adding the front frame. If it catches, find the high spot with pencil marks on the runner, then sand lightly. Do not force a tight tray: a small adjustment now is easier than repairing a split runner later.
Add the front and door
Make a simple face frame from 3/4-inch stock: two stiles about 12 inches long and rails sized to fit between them. Glue it to the cabinet front, keeping the opening centered. Add a hinged door or leave the cabinet open. A door keeps dust off the tea, but it needs room to swing; fit the hinges after the frame is attached and leave a narrow, even gap around the door.
For a door, use a flat 1/2-inch panel and two small butt hinges. A door that is even 1/8 inch out of square will show an uneven gap, so dry-fit it and mark hinge locations carefully. Install the knob only after confirming it does not hit the counter or tray fronts.
Sand and finish
Sand visible surfaces from 120 to 180 grit, easing sharp edges by hand. Do not round over the tray bottoms or runner faces; rounded contact surfaces can make trays wobble. For a clear finish, use a water-based polyurethane or hardwax oil and follow its cure instructions. Finish the inside only after testing on scrap, since some coatings can leave an odor that lingers in a closed cabinet. Let the finish cure fully before storing tea.
Check before use
Load each tray with the tins or tea packets you plan to store and pull it out several times. It should travel without scraping and stay level when extended. If a tray dips, check that its runners are level and firmly attached. If it sticks only in damp weather, sand a small amount from the tray sides and reseal the exposed wood. These small adjustments are normal for wooden runners and are one of the trade-offs for a simple, repairable design.