What's inside
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A wooden case keeps board-game boxes from getting crushed and makes loose pieces easier to carry. This design holds one game or a small stack, with a lift-out divider that separates boards from cards and tokens. It uses common lumber, butt joints, and a plywood bottom; the main fit challenge is leaving enough clearance for the divider to lift out without rattling.
Contents
Set the dimensions around your game
The example case measures 16 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 5 inches deep inside. That fits many medium-sized games, but measure your own boxes and pieces before cutting. Add at least 1/2 inch to the largest item’s length and width, and about 3/4 inch to its height so the lid does not press on components.
These are inside dimensions. With 1/2-inch-thick sides, the outside footprint is about 17 by 13 inches. A 1/4-inch bottom sits in a groove near the lower edge of each side. If you skip the groove and nail the bottom underneath, the outside height increases by 1/4 inch and the joint is easier to build, though less tidy.
Materials and tools
Use straight, dry 1/2-inch poplar or pine for the sides, a 1/4-inch plywood panel for the bottom, and 1/4-inch plywood for the divider. Poplar is usually more stable and dents less readily than inexpensive pine, but pine is fine for a budget case. Avoid warped boards: even a slight bow can leave gaps at the corners.
Gather a saw, square, tape measure, drill, clamps, wood glue, and 18-gauge brad nails or small screws. A table saw makes the bottom groove and divider slot straightforward. Without one, attach the bottom beneath the sides and fasten a narrow pair of cleats inside the case to guide the divider. A 1/4-inch plywood panel is a practical choice for both the bottom and divider; solid wood can move with humidity and may bind in its slot.
| Bottom construction | Advantages | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Panel in grooves | Clean appearance; sides help support the bottom | Requires accurate grooves and careful assembly |
| Panel attached underneath | Simple cuts; forgiving for a first build | Visible edges; case is slightly taller |
Cut the parts
For a 16-by-12-inch interior, cut two long sides to 17 inches and two end pieces to 12 inches, assuming the long sides overlap the ends at the corners. The resulting inside width is 12 inches; the inside length is 16 inches. Cut the bottom to fit the measured opening between the sides, rather than relying on nominal lumber dimensions. Boards sold as 1/2 inch thick can vary, and a bottom that is too large will force the box out of square.
Cut the divider to the inside width and about 1/8 inch less than the interior height. For a 5-inch-deep case, a 4 7/8-inch-high divider usually leaves enough room to grasp and lift it. Cut its length so it fits snugly across the case without bowing the walls. Test the actual fit before sanding or finishing.
Assemble the case
Mark the bottom groove 1/4 inch above the lower edge of each side. A 1/4-inch-wide groove about 1/4 inch deep gives the plywood a supported seat. Cut grooves before assembly and test with an offcut. The panel should slide in with light hand pressure; forcing it can split a narrow side.
Dry-fit the four sides around the bottom. Check both diagonals from corner to corner; they should match within about 1/8 inch. Apply a thin, continuous bead of glue to the corner joints and grooves, then clamp the case square. Add brads or screws to hold the joints while the glue cures. Drill pilot holes for screws, especially near the ends of pine boards, to reduce splitting. Wipe away squeezed-out glue before it hardens.
If using an underneath bottom, keep the case square, then glue and nail the panel to the lower edges. Use enough fasteners to prevent the panel from flexing, spacing them about 3 inches apart. A few brads alone may loosen if the loaded case is carried by its bottom.
Make the removable divider
For a simple slot, cut two opposing grooves in the inside long walls at the chosen position. A 1/4-inch divider needs a slot slightly wider than 1/4 inch—around 9/32 inch—to allow for plywood thickness and finish. Set the slot deep enough to hold the divider steady, but not so deep that it becomes difficult to lift; 1/4 inch is a useful starting point. Round the divider’s top corners and sand a shallow finger notch into its top edge.
A slot can still bind if the case walls bow inward or the finish builds up inside it. Sand the divider until it slides freely, then finish the parts separately. If you do not have a table saw, glue narrow guide cleats to the inside walls, leaving a channel just wider than the divider. Cleats are easier to fit after the case is assembled, but can look more prominent and may snag cards if their edges are left sharp.
Finish and check the fit
Sand through 120 and then 180 grit, easing exposed corners so they do not catch sleeves or hands. Apply two thin coats of water-based polyurethane or another clear furniture finish, sanding lightly between coats according to the product directions. Keep finish out of the divider slot, or scrape it clear before it fully cures. Thick finish in a narrow channel is a common reason a divider that fit during dry assembly later sticks.
Once cured, load the case and test it in the way you will use it: lift it, carry it briefly, and tip it gently. If the divider rattles, add thin felt pads to its ends or adjust the slot; do not wedge it so tightly that it requires a tool to remove. For frequent travel, add a lid with small hinges and a catch, and consider a small hinge-and-catch set. For shelf storage, a lid is optional and adds cost and fitting work. A basic pair of bar clamps can help hold the corners square during glue-up, but careful clamping with what you already own is enough.