What's inside
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A cedar boot tray keeps wet, muddy footwear off the floor while the slatted insert lifts boots above standing water. This version is sized for two pairs of adult boots, but the dimensions are easy to adjust. The tray uses a simple cedar box, a removable bottom liner, and a slatted drainage platform that can be lifted out for cleaning.
Contents
Project Overview
The finished tray measures approximately 30 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 4 inches high. That gives most work boots enough room without taking over an entryway. The slatted insert sits about 1 inch above the tray bottom, leaving space for water, melted snow, and grit.
| Material | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Cedar fence board | Lowest-cost outdoor-rated material | Usually rougher, thinner, and less consistently sized |
| Cedar decking board | Stronger tray sides and cleaner appearance | Costs more and may need more planing or sanding |
| Clear cedar | Best appearance and fewer knots | Most expensive; unnecessary for a utility tray |
For a practical build, use one or two cedar fence boards for the sides and a cedar board or leftover slats for the insert. Cedar is naturally resistant to moisture, but it is not waterproof. The tray will last longer if you empty it regularly and let it dry.
Materials and Tools
- Two cedar boards, approximately 1 x 6 x 6 feet
- One cedar board or several offcuts for the slats
- Four cedar blocks, approximately 1 x 1 x 1 inch, for insert supports
- Exterior-rated screws, 1 1/4 inches long
- Waterproof wood glue rated for exterior use
- Thin rubber tray liner, pond liner, or boot-tray mat
- Table saw, circular saw with a guide, or miter saw
- Drill and 1/8-inch drill bit
- Clamps, tape measure, square, and pencil
- 80- and 120-grit sandpaper
A box of exterior wood screws is worth buying instead of using ordinary drywall screws. Drywall screws are brittle and rust quickly in a wet entryway. Stainless-steel screws are the best choice, but coated exterior screws are adequate for a lower-cost indoor tray.
Cut List
Cut the tray parts to these dimensions:
- Two long sides: 30 inches long by 5 1/2 inches wide
- Two end pieces: 14 1/2 inches long by 5 1/2 inches wide
- Seven slats: 14 inches long by 1 1/4 inches wide
- Four support blocks: 1 inch square
The 14 1/2-inch end pieces fit between the long sides. If your boards are not exactly 3/4 inch thick, measure the actual thickness first. The end length should equal the desired outside width minus twice the actual side thickness. This prevents a tray that is either too wide or too narrow.
Build the Tray Box
Start by checking each board for splits and loose knots. Cedar is soft, and a screw driven too close to an edge can split it. Mark screw locations at least 3/8 inch from the ends and edges.
Apply a thin bead of exterior wood glue to the end grain of each end piece. Set one end between the long sides, check that the corners are square, and drill two pilot holes through each side into the end grain. Drive the screws without over-tightening. Repeat for the other end.
Glue helps the joints, but do not depend on glue alone. End-grain joints have limited holding power, especially when the wood repeatedly gets wet and dries. The screws provide the mechanical connection. Wipe away squeeze-out before it hardens.
Sand the top edges and corners with 80-grit paper, then finish with 120 grit. A small 1/8-inch roundover or a few extra sanding strokes makes the tray safer to carry and less likely to snag socks or pant cuffs.
Make the Slatted Drainage Insert
Cut seven slats to 14 inches long. Space them across the tray with approximately 1/2 inch between each slat. The exact spacing is not critical, but gaps wider than 3/4 inch can let small boot heels or children’s shoes catch between the boards.
Place the four support blocks inside the tray, one near each corner. Set them so the top of each block is about 1 inch above the tray bottom. Screw or glue the blocks to the side walls. If you glue them, allow the adhesive to cure before adding the slats.
Lay the slats across the supports. Do not glue them in place. A removable insert is easier to clean, and you can replace one warped or cracked slat without rebuilding the tray. If the slats slide, add a small screw through the outermost slats into the support blocks, leaving the middle slats loose.
Before fixing anything permanently, place a boot on the insert and check that the sole sits flat. Tall rubber boots may need a wider tray or a second row of slats. If the boots rock, reduce the gaps or lightly sand the slat edges.
Add a Liner and Finish
Cut a rubber liner to fit inside the bottom of the tray. It should lie flat beneath the insert but should not curl sharply up the walls. A liner protects the weakest part of the build: the bottom corners and screw holes where water can collect.
A rubber boot tray liner is the simplest option. A piece of pond liner or thick utility mat is cheaper if you already have it. Avoid cardboard, fabric, and thin kitchen shelf liner; they absorb water, tear under grit, or slide around.
You can leave cedar unfinished, which makes future repairs and sanding easy. For a darker color or extra protection, apply two thin coats of an exterior penetrating oil labeled for cedar. Do not use a thick film finish on the insert unless it is specifically rated for wet exterior use. Standing water under a peeling finish is harder to manage than bare wood.
Test and Maintain the Tray
Set the tray on a level surface and pour in about 1/2 inch of water. Check for leaks at the corners and around the screw heads. Small seepage is normal with an unfinished cedar box; the liner should contain it. If water escapes around a corner, add exterior sealant to the inside joint after the wood is dry.
Lift out the insert every few days during wet weather. Empty grit and pine needles from the liner, wipe it dry, and let the cedar air out. Do not leave the tray full of dirty water for weeks. That is the main failure mode: cedar may resist decay, but trapped mud keeps it wet and eventually causes soft spots, mold, and loose joints.
For an entryway with several pairs of boots, build a second tray rather than making this one excessively wide. A tray wider than about 20 inches becomes awkward to carry when full, and long slats are more likely to sag or warp. If you need extra capacity, buy cedar boards for additional trays and keep each unit manageable.