What's inside
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A small wooden display easel is a useful first project: it needs only a few straight cuts, a handful of drilled holes and simple hardware. This tabletop version holds a small canvas, framed photo or recipe card. It folds flat for storage and uses a chain to limit how far the legs open.
Contents
Size and design
The finished easel stands about 12 inches tall and holds artwork up to roughly 8 inches high. It has two front legs and one rear leg, all cut from 1-by-2 lumber. Actual 1-by-2 stock is usually ¾ inch thick by 1½ inches wide. A short crosspiece supports the artwork, while a chain between the front and rear legs prevents the easel from spreading too far.
This plan favors a stable, easy-to-build frame over fine furniture details. It is suitable for indoor use; untreated pine can dent, and the chain and screws are not weatherproof. For heavy or valuable pieces, use a stronger commercial stand or increase the stock size and test the easel with a load before use.
Materials and tools
Buy one straight 1-by-2 board at least 4 feet long. Choose the clearest, straightest section you can find: twisted lumber makes the legs rock, and knots near screw holes can split. You will also need a 6-inch length of light chain, two small screw eyes, wood glue, and four 1¼-inch wood screws. A straight 1-by-2 pine board is inexpensive and adequate for a light-duty easel.
Use a saw, tape measure, pencil, square, drill, ⅛-inch drill bit and sandpaper. A cordless drill/driver is convenient, but a hand drill also works. If you do not own a saw, a hardware store may cut the board to length; check the measurements before leaving.
Cut list and hardware choices
| Part or option | Quantity and size | Use and trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Front legs | 2 at 12 inches | Support the artwork and form the front frame. |
| Rear leg | 1 at 11½ inches | Shorter leg helps the easel lean back. |
| Artwork ledge | 1 at 5 inches | Supports the bottom edge of a small piece. |
| Chain stop | 6 inches of light chain | Limits opening; easy to adjust by changing its length. |
| Chain versus cord | Chain is more durable; cord is cheaper | Cord works for light artwork, but can stretch or fray. |
These dimensions are a starting point, not a load rating. A 5-inch ledge suits a small frame or canvas; measure your artwork and lengthen the ledge if needed. Avoid making it so deep that it catches the frame’s face or blocks a picture stand.
Cut and sand the pieces
Mark the two front legs at 12 inches, the rear leg at 11½ inches and the ledge at 5 inches. Square each line across the board and cut carefully. If using a hand saw, clamp the board to a bench and start with short strokes to keep the cut from wandering. Match the two front legs against each other; if their ends differ, sand them even so the easel sits level.
Sand all faces and edges with 120-grit paper, then smooth the parts with 180-grit. Ease the corners rather than rounding them heavily. Pay particular attention to the ledge and leg ends, where splinters are most likely. Wipe away dust before assembly.
Assemble the front frame
Lay the two front legs parallel, with their inside edges 3½ inches apart. Place the 5-inch ledge across them, about 2 inches above their bottom ends. Center it so roughly ¾ inch extends past each leg. Check that it is level and that the legs remain parallel.
Drill a ⅛-inch pilot hole through the ledge into each leg. Add a small amount of wood glue at each joint, then drive one 1¼-inch screw through the ledge into each leg. Pilot holes matter: screws driven into the narrow edge of a ¾-inch board can split the wood, especially near an end. Wipe away squeezed-out glue and let it set according to the label.
Fit the rear leg and chain
Place the rear leg behind the front frame, centered between the front legs. At the top, stack the three legs together and drill a ⅛-inch hole through them, about ½ inch below their ends. Keep the drill square to the faces. Insert a screw loosely enough for the rear leg to pivot, but not so loosely that the frame wobbles. If the screw binds, back it off slightly; forcing the joint can strip the hole.
Stand the easel on a level surface and open the rear leg until the front leans back about 10 to 15 degrees. Check that all three feet touch the surface. Mark where the chain will attach: one screw eye goes on the back of a front leg and the other on the rear leg, roughly 4 to 5 inches above the feet. Drill small pilot holes and twist in the eyes. Attach the chain. It should become taut before the legs spread enough to feel unstable. If it is slack, shorten it; if it pulls the easel too upright, use a longer chain.
Test, finish and troubleshoot
Set the easel on a flat table and place a light, inexpensive item on the ledge first. Press gently on the top of the frame and check for rocking, loose screws or a chain that slips. If it rocks, inspect the leg cuts and sand the longest foot slightly. If the legs spread under pressure, shorten the chain or move its attachment points lower. Do not use the easel if the top joint is cracked or the artwork slides off the ledge.
For a plain indoor easel, leaving the pine unfinished is fine. A coat of water-based clear finish or paint adds some protection, but finish every face and let it cure fully before placing artwork against it. Keep the finish thin around the pivot joint so the legs do not stick together. A water-based clear finish is a practical choice when you want a wipe-clean surface; for a display that will see little handling, skipping finish saves time and money.