What's inside
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Contents
Size the rack to your bits
A wall-mounted rack keeps router bits visible and protects their cutting edges from knocking into one another. The layout below holds 24 common bits in two rows. It suits a small workshop and can be made from offcuts, but you should adjust the hole sizes and spacing to match your collection before drilling.
Most 1/4-inch shank bits fit in holes around 5/16 inch in diameter; most 1/2-inch shanks need holes around 9/16 inch. Those extra 1/16 inch provide clearance for easy removal without letting the bits wobble excessively. Measure your shanks rather than relying on the label, especially if you own mixed or older bits. If you have a lot of one size, make separate rows for each.
A practical rack is about 18 inches wide, 6 inches tall, and 3/4 inch thick. Space holes about 1 1/2 inches apart, center to center, so large cutters have room. Leave at least 1 1/2 inches of solid wood at each end and 1 inch above and below the rows. Bits with wide profiles may need more space; lay them out on the board first and check that their cutters do not touch.
Materials and tools
You will need a hardwood or stable plywood blank about 18 by 6 by 3/4 inches, two screws for wall mounting, and a scrap of wood for testing hole sizes. Maple, birch, and other close-grained hardwoods resist dents well. Plywood is often cheaper and less likely to split, though the exposed plies look less finished. Avoid MDF for the bit-holding board: its edges can crumble around frequently used holes.
Use a drill press if available; it makes straight, repeatable holes. A handheld drill works if you clamp the board securely and use a guide block to keep the bit vertical. A brad-point drill bit set helps locate holes accurately and leaves a cleaner entry than a standard twist bit. For larger holes, Forstner bits give a flat bottom and a clean rim, but they cost more and can burn if you feed them too slowly.
Choose between through-holes and shallow recesses before you start. Through-holes are simple and let you see the shanks, but bits can fall out if the rack is tilted or bumped. Shallow recesses keep the bits on the board but require accurate depth control and can be harder to clean. The comparison below can help you choose.
| Feature | Through-holes | Shallow recesses |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of drilling | Simple; drill through a sacrificial backing board | Requires a depth stop or careful marking |
| Bit retention | Good when mounted level; weaker if bumped | Better for keeping bits seated |
| Cleaning | Dust can pass through | Dust collects in the bottom of each pocket |
| Best use | Quick, inexpensive shop storage | Bits with shorter shanks or a rack likely to be disturbed |
Mark and drill the holes
Sand the blank, then mark two horizontal rows with a ruler and pencil. On an 18-inch board, set the first and last hole centers about 1 1/2 inches from the ends, then divide the remaining distance into equal intervals. With 12 holes per row, the spacing will be roughly 1 3/8 inches. Mark the rows about 3 inches apart, keeping the holes centered vertically.
Before drilling the rack, test the chosen diameter and depth on scrap of the same material. Insert a bit shank: it should slide in without force and come out without tipping the board. A hole that is too tight can wedge a shank; one that is too loose lets the bit rattle and may chip the edge. If in doubt, test the smaller diameter first, then enlarge only if needed.
Clamp the board over a sacrificial backer to reduce tear-out on the underside. Drill each hole slowly and clear chips often, particularly in hardwood; packed chips create heat and can scorch the hole. For recesses, wrap tape around the drill bit at the target depth or use a depth stop. A depth of about 1/2 inch is enough for many shanks, but confirm that the cutting head will not rest against the board.
Finish and mount the rack
Ease the edges with sandpaper and remove dust from the holes. A light coat of paste wax or clear finish helps keep the wood clean, but avoid building up finish inside the holes; even a thin film can make a snug fit too tight. If you do apply finish, test the fit again after it cures.
Mount the rack into wall studs where possible, using screws long enough to pass through the rack and engage the stud by at least 1 inch. For a rack near a bench, mount it at eye level and leave room above it to lift bits straight out. If studs do not line up with the rack, use suitable wall anchors rated for the combined load, or fasten a wider mounting cleat to the studs first. Do not rely on short drywall screws; a rack full of steel bits can pull free.
Label and maintain the rack
Mark each hole with the cutter profile or bit size so you can return bits to the right spot. A fine-tip permanent marker is cheap and clear; small adhesive labels look neater but can peel when exposed to shop dust and oil. If you use many bits, divide the rows by shank size and leave a few empty holes for new additions rather than packing cutters together.
Keep the rack away from a damp exterior wall, and wipe bits dry before storing them. If a hole loosens or chips, enlarge it cleanly and fit a short hardwood plug, or make a replacement board; do not force a shank into damaged wood. For most home shops, a simple hardwood or plywood rack is plenty. A commercially made router bit storage rack makes sense if you want a ready-made layout or need to store a larger collection, but a custom board is easier to tailor to the bits you already own.