What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A wall rack keeps snowshoes off the floor, where bindings can get crushed and wet frames can stay damp. This simple design holds one or two pairs by their frames, uses ordinary lumber, and takes an afternoon to build. Measure your snowshoes before cutting: frame shapes vary, and the rack needs to support the pair without pinching straps or binding parts.
Contents
Plan the rack around your snowshoes
The rack has two horizontal rails, each with a pair of short pegs. The snowshoe frames rest on the pegs, spaced far enough apart to avoid squeezing the decking or bindings. For most adult snowshoes, start with rails 24 inches long and peg pairs about 16 inches apart, measured from center to center. Check your own pair: the pegs should contact solid frame sections, not a hinge, strap, or thin decking.
Mount the rails vertically, one above the other, with about 18 inches between them. That lets one snowshoe sit on the upper rail and its mate on the lower rail, keeping the pair separated for airflow. If you want to store two pairs side by side, use rails at least 36 inches long and add another peg pair. Keep the loaded rack clear of garage doors, vehicles, and anything you need to reach.
Materials and tools
Use a straight 1-by-4 board for the rails and 1-inch-diameter hardwood dowel for the pegs. A 1-by-4 is actually about 3/4 by 3 1/2 inches, which is ample for this light load when screwed into studs. Softwood such as pine is inexpensive and works well; hardwood dowel resists dents better, but is not essential. For the rails, look for a board without splits, loose knots, or a pronounced twist.
You’ll need a tape measure, pencil, saw, drill, 1-inch spade or Forstner bit, countersink bit, level, and stud finder. A handsaw and inexpensive drill are enough. A 1-inch Forstner bit makes a cleaner-bottomed peg hole than a spade bit, but the cheaper spade bit is fine if you drill carefully. Have four 2 1/2-inch construction screws for mounting each rail, plus wood glue for the pegs.
Cut and lay out the parts
Cut two rails to 24 inches. Cut four pegs from the dowel, each 4 inches long. Sand the rail edges and round the peg ends slightly so they won’t snag straps. On each rail, mark peg centers 4 inches in from each end. If your snowshoes require a different spacing, adjust the marks before drilling; the important measurement is the gap between the two contact points, not the rail length.
Drill a 1-inch hole at each mark, centered across the rail’s 3 1/2-inch face. Drill about 1 1/4 inches deep, using tape on the bit as a depth guide. Keep the drill square to the board. A tilted hole makes a peg lean, which can let a snowshoe slide off. Test one hole with a scrap of dowel if possible: it should fit snugly, not require hammering hard enough to split the rail.
Assemble and finish
Put a small amount of wood glue in each hole and press in a peg, leaving roughly 2 3/4 inches exposed. Check that each peg points straight out from the rail. Wipe away squeeze-out, then let the glue cure as directed on its label. If a peg is loose, don’t rely on glue alone to fill a large gap; remake the hole-and-peg fit or use a slightly larger dowel.
Ease sharp corners with sandpaper. A bare rack is acceptable in a dry garage, but snow and road salt can leave grime on unfinished wood. A coat of clear water-based polyurethane helps with cleanup; let it dry fully before hanging gear. Avoid a slick, glossy finish on the pegs if the snowshoes tend to slide. A light sanding after the final coat adds grip.
Mount the rack securely
Find two wall studs and mark their centers. Position the rails so both can be fastened into the same pair of studs; studs are usually 16 inches apart, which suits a 24-inch rail. Hold each rail level and drill pilot holes through it at the stud marks. Use two screws per stud per rail, spaced vertically by about 2 inches. If the wall has drywall, the screws must pass through it and bite into the studs; drywall anchors alone are not a reliable mount for gear that may be pulled sideways.
For concrete or masonry, use fasteners rated for that wall material rather than ordinary wood screws. A basic stud finder can speed up layout, but confirm each location with a small pilot hole if the reading is uncertain. Avoid mounting over wiring or plumbing, and don’t assume a visible seam in drywall marks a stud.
Choose the right version
| Option | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Two-rail, four-peg rack | One pair of snowshoes; limited wall space | Requires measuring peg spacing to fit the frames |
| Longer rails with extra peg pairs | Two or more pairs stored together | Needs more wall width and extra stud support |
| Store-bought utility hooks | A quick setup with no woodworking | Less tailored support; check that hooks don’t press on bindings |
The simplest rack is usually the best value for one pair. If you’re storing several bulky pairs or want to hang other equipment too, compare it with garage wall storage hooks. Individual hooks cost little and are easy to reposition, while a wooden rack gives the snowshoes broader, repeatable support.
Test the fit and keep it clear
Hang the snowshoes gently, then tug each frame outward and down to check for movement. If a frame rocks, shift the peg spacing or add a thin rubber sleeve to improve grip. Don’t force a tight fit: pressure on a binding or frame can cause damage over time. Leave enough space between the pair for air to circulate, and brush off snow before storage. Check the mounting screws at the start of each winter; tighten any that have backed out, and replace a cracked peg before loading the rack again.