What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Contents
Project overview
This intermediate project produces a wall cabinet about 24 inches wide, 30 inches tall, and 10 inches deep, with one adjustable shelf and a single Shaker-style door. Those dimensions suit a bathroom, laundry room, or workshop wall; change the width or height to fit your space, but keep the cabinet shallow enough that its contents are easy to reach.
The cabinet box is plywood, while the door frame is solid wood. That split keeps the case stable and makes the door easier to build accurately. Plan on a weekend for cutting, assembly, and door fitting, plus extra drying time if you paint. This is not a load-bearing cabinet: use a cleat and fasteners appropriate for the wall and expected contents.
Materials and tools
For a 24-by-30-by-10-inch case, buy one 4-by-8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood for the sides, top, bottom, and fixed hanging cleat. A half sheet of 1/4-inch plywood is enough for the back and door panel. Choose cabinet-grade plywood if the exposed edges will show; less expensive plywood is fine when the edges will be covered with solid-wood edging or paint. Avoid sheets with voids near the edges you need to screw into.
The door uses straight, dry 1-by-2-inch hardwood or poplar, ripped to about 2 inches wide if needed. For the frame-and-panel joints, use a router with a rail-and-stile bit set, or cut grooves and tenons with tools you already own. A pair of concealed cabinet hinges makes alignment adjustable; basic butt hinges cost less but require more careful placement and do not offer the same adjustment.
You will also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, a drill/driver, square, clamps, measuring tape, and sandpaper. A pocket-hole jig is convenient for assembling the case, but screws driven through the top and bottom into the sides work just as well if you plug or conceal the holes.
Cut list and construction choices
Cut the case sides to 30 by 10 inches, and the top and bottom to 22 1/2 by 10 inches. That gives a 24-inch outside width with the top and bottom captured between the sides. Cut the back to 24 by 30 inches, then trim it to fit after squaring the case. A 3/4-inch plywood cleat can be about 3 inches high and 22 1/2 inches long, fitted inside near the top.
| Door method | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Router rail-and-stile set | Repeatable Shaker profile and clean edges | Higher tool cost; test cuts and correct bit setup matter |
| Grooved rails and stiles | Simple, square-edged frame with a floating panel | Needs accurate grooves and joinery; less decorative profile |
| Applied trim over a flat panel | Lowest-cost painted door | Not a true frame-and-panel door; joints can telegraph through paint |
For a straightforward Shaker door, make the outside dimensions about 23 7/8 by 29 7/8 inches, leaving roughly 1/16 inch of clearance on each side of a 24-by-30-inch opening. Measure the finished case before cutting the door; plywood and assembly tolerances can change the opening. A rail-and-stile router bit set is useful if you plan to make several doors. For one cabinet, a grooved frame or applied trim may be a better use of your budget.
Assemble the case
Mark the inside faces of both sides and dry-fit the top and bottom between them. Check that the front edges are flush. Drill pilot holes to reduce splitting, then apply a thin, continuous bead of glue and fasten the joints. If using pocket holes, place them on the inside faces where they will not be visible with the door open. Do not overtighten: screws can pull a joint out of square.
Measure diagonally across the front of the case. The two measurements should match within about 1/8 inch. Adjust with clamps before fastening the back. A back panel is more than a dust cover: when its edges sit square against the case, it helps prevent racking. Pin or screw it around the perimeter, keeping the corners flush. If the diagonals differ substantially, the door will be difficult to align.
Install the cleat inside the cabinet near the top, with its broad face against the back. Fasten it through the sides and into the back with screws long enough to engage the cleat, but not so long that they break through the front. Add a second cleat near the bottom if the cabinet will hold heavier items.
Build the Shaker-style door
Cut two stiles to the door’s full height and two rails to fit between them. For a 2-inch-wide frame and 3/8-inch-deep tenons, a starting rail length is the door width minus twice the stile width, plus twice the tenon length. Dry-fit the joints and check both diagonals before gluing. The center panel should be 1/4-inch plywood, sized to fit its grooves with a small amount of clearance. Do not glue the panel into the grooves; seasonal wood movement can split a tightly trapped panel or distort the door.
Clamp the frame on a flat surface, using light pressure and checking for twist. After the glue cures, sand the faces and ease the sharp edges slightly. Hang the door temporarily and test the gap around all four sides. If one corner rubs, correct the hinge position or carefully plane the edge; forcing the door closed can loosen the hinges or damage the finish.
Finish and mount
Fill visible nail or screw holes, sand to 150 or 180 grit, and remove dust. For a painted cabinet, prime plywood edges and end grain before applying two thin topcoats. A clear finish is a good choice for attractive hardwood, but plywood edges may need solid-wood edging for a clean result. Test the finish on an offcut, especially if the plywood face and door wood are different species.
Locate studs before hanging the cabinet. Drive structural screws through the cleat into at least two studs whenever possible, and verify that the screws are rated for the load. If stud locations do not line up, use a properly rated wall-anchor system rather than relying on drywall screws. Lift the cabinet with help, level it, and confirm it cannot pull away from the wall before loading it. Finally, adjust the hinges so the door gaps are even, then install the shelf pins and test the shelf at the height you need.