Step-by-Step Plans for a Wooden Outdoor Plant Caddy with Fixed Feet

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Updated Sep 27, 2026· 4 min read

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This caddy is a small, stationary platform for raising a planter off a deck or patio. Its four fixed feet keep it simple: there are no casters to lock, fail, or roll on sloped boards. The trade-off is that you must lift the finished planter to move it. The plan below suits a planter up to about 16 inches across and 100 pounds when planted and wet.

Contents
  1. Design and materials
  2. Tools and sizing choices
  3. Cut list and layout
  4. Assemble the slatted top
  5. Attach the fixed feet
  6. Finish, drainage, and load test

Design and materials

The platform is 18 by 18 inches, made from five deck boards with narrow drainage gaps. Four feet beneath the corners raise it about 1 1/2 inches. Use rot-resistant cedar or redwood for a caddy left outdoors; pressure-treated lumber is a cheaper choice if you are comfortable handling it according to the label. Standard untreated pine is fine for a sheltered spot, but it may soften or decay sooner when regularly exposed to water.

Buy 1-by-4-inch boards, which are typically about 3/4 by 3 1/2 inches actual size. You will need three boards at least 6 feet long: five pieces for the top, four feet, and two underside cleats. Also gather exterior-rated screws, waterproof wood glue, sandpaper, and an exterior finish if desired. A box of exterior wood screws is a practical buy; ordinary interior screws can rust or stain the wood.

Tools and sizing choices

You need a saw, drill-driver, tape measure, square, and clamps. A miter saw makes repeat cuts convenient, but a circular saw or handsaw works if you mark carefully. If you do not own a drill, a basic corded drill is adequate for this small build; a cordless drill is more convenient, not essential. Wear eye protection, and support boards securely while cutting.

Choice Best for Trade-off
Cedar or redwood Regular outdoor exposure Costs more and can split if screws are driven too close to an edge
Pressure-treated lumber Lower-cost outdoor use Can be damp and prone to twisting; use exterior-rated fasteners
Untreated pine Covered porch or short-term use Needs more protection from standing water and may have a shorter service life

For a larger or heavier planter, enlarge the platform and use thicker stock rather than simply extending these dimensions. A very heavy ceramic pot can exceed this plan’s intended load, especially if the floor is uneven.

Cut list and layout

Cut five top slats 18 inches long, four feet 3 1/2 inches long, and two underside cleats 15 inches long. The feet are short blocks cut from the same 1-by-4 stock. Set the five slats edge to edge with about 1/8-inch gaps. At roughly 3 1/2 inches wide per board, this creates a platform about 18 inches square once the gaps are included. Check the actual width of your lumber before cutting; board sizes vary.

Sand cut ends and ease sharp corners with 120-grit paper. Do not round the edges heavily: keeping the slats square makes it easier to align the cleats and gives the planter a stable contact area.

Assemble the slatted top

Lay the five slats face down on a flat surface. Use two 1/8-inch spacers between neighboring boards, such as scraps of thin plywood or a drill bit used as a gauge. Position one 15-inch cleat about 2 inches in from each end. The cleats should cross all five slats and leave room for the feet beneath their outer ends.

Drill two pilot holes through each cleat into every slat, keeping holes centered across the slat width. For soft cedar, pilot holes help prevent splits. Apply a thin line of waterproof glue where each cleat contacts the slats, then fasten with 1 1/4-inch exterior screws. Wipe away squeeze-out. Do not overtighten: a screw head driven deeply into soft wood weakens the surface and can invite water to collect.

Attach the fixed feet

Turn the platform over. Place one 3 1/2-inch foot beneath each corner, with its outer edges aligned to the platform edges and its long direction running across the slats. Each foot should overlap the cleat, not hang beyond the platform. Mark its position, drill two pilot holes through the cleat, and secure each foot with two 1 1/4-inch exterior screws. Add a small amount of waterproof glue at the joint if the caddy will remain outdoors.

Set the caddy on a flat floor and press each corner. If it rocks, identify the high foot and trim or sand its bottom until all four make contact. A rocking caddy can concentrate weight on one corner and may crack a slat or loosen a screw over time. Do not try to correct a noticeably warped board by forcing the feet into place.

Finish, drainage, and load test

Brush or vacuum off dust. A penetrating exterior oil or water-repellent finish can slow weathering, but it will not make the caddy waterproof; refresh it as directed on the product label. Leave the gaps between slats open so water drains rather than pooling under the pot. Put the caddy where runoff will not damage the surface beneath it.

Before placing a valuable planter on the platform, test it with a distributed load near the expected weight. Put a bag of potting mix or other stable weight on top, then check for flex, loose screws, and rocking. Keep the load centered and avoid standing on the caddy. If the slats bend visibly, add a third cleat across the underside or rebuild with thicker material. Inspect the feet after the first wet season; replace a split foot or rusted fastener before using the caddy again.

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