What's inside
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This wooden writing box is a useful weekend project for an intermediate woodworker. It has a hinged lid for letters or a notebook, plus a removable pen tray that lifts out to expose a larger storage compartment underneath. The design is simple enough for hand tools, but accurate layout matters: a lid that is slightly out of square will bind, and a tray that is too tight will be frustrating to remove.
Contents
Project at a Glance
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Finished outside size | 14 inches wide × 9 inches deep × 4 inches high |
| Recommended skill | Intermediate; suitable for a careful beginner with supervision |
| Build time | One long weekend, including finish drying time |
| Wood required | About 8 board feet of 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch stock |
| Best seasons | Spring or fall, when shop temperature and humidity are moderate |
Materials and Tools
Use straight, dry hardwood for the box. Cherry, maple, walnut, and beech all work well. Cherry is usually the easiest value choice: it machines cleanly, is not excessively heavy, and darkens attractively with age. Avoid construction lumber. It moves too much and rarely has the clean edges needed for a good-fitting lid.
You will need 1/2-inch stock for the sides and bottom, 3/4-inch stock for the lid frame, and a 1/4-inch panel for the lid center. Allow extra material for defects and grain matching. Helpful tools include a table saw or track saw, router, drill, clamps, square, block plane, and a sharp chisel. A small block plane is useful for trimming the tray and lid, but sandpaper on a flat block is an acceptable cheaper option.
Buy two small brass butt hinges, a small box clasp or magnetic catch, and four rubber or cork feet. For a hand-finished appearance, choose a small brass hinge set with leaves no wider than 1 inch. Oversized hinges make this box look clumsy and can split the narrow rear rail.
Cut List
Cut the following parts, checking each piece against your actual stock thickness:
- Front and back: two pieces, 14 × 3 1/2 × 1/2 inches
- Ends: two pieces, 8 × 3 1/2 × 1/2 inches
- Bottom: one piece, 13 × 8 × 1/4 inch
- Lid frame rails: two pieces, 14 × 1 1/2 × 3/4 inch
- Lid frame ends: two pieces, 8 × 1 1/2 × 3/4 inch
- Lid panel: one piece, 12 1/2 × 6 1/2 × 1/4 inch
- Tray sides: two pieces, 12 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 1/2 inch
- Tray ends: two pieces, 7 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 1/2 inch
- Tray bottom: one piece, 12 × 7 × 1/4 inch
The tray dimensions leave roughly 1/8 inch of clearance on each side inside the box. Measure the assembled box before cutting the tray. Wood thickness varies, and a fixed cut list cannot account for every saw blade or planer setting.
Build the Box
Start by cutting the front, back, and end pieces to length. Mill or sand them to a consistent thickness. Mark the inside faces so you do not accidentally reverse a part during assembly. Cut a 1/4-inch-wide by 1/4-inch-deep rabbet along the inside bottom edge of all four walls. This rabbet supports the bottom and hides its edge.
Dry-fit the four walls around the bottom. Check both diagonals; they should be within 1/16 inch of each other. Apply glue to the end joints and the bottom rabbet, then clamp the assembly. Do not flood the rabbet with glue. Squeeze-out in the inside corners is difficult to remove after the box has set.
Once the glue cures, flush the corners with a block plane or sanding block. If a corner has opened, do not simply fill a large gap with sawdust and glue. That repair remains visible. It is better to recut a replacement end or close the joint with a clamp and fresh glue while it is still workable.
Make the Lift-Out Tray
Assemble the tray with the same rabbeted-bottom approach, but keep its overall height near 1 3/4 inches. Sand the top edges slightly round so the tray is comfortable to lift. Drill two 3/4-inch finger holes near the ends of the tray bottom, or attach a small fabric pull underneath the center. Finger holes are cleaner; a fabric pull is less likely to catch on contents stored below.
Test the tray before finishing. It should drop in without force and lift out with two fingers. If it binds, identify the high spot with a pencil, then remove material gradually. Leave at least 1/16 inch of side clearance. Seasonal humidity can close a tight fit, particularly in a damp summer shop. A fine woodworking rasp set is inexpensive and gives better control than aggressive sanding.
Make and Fit the Hinged Lid
Cut shallow 1/4-inch rabbets or grooves around the inside of the lid frame so the center panel sits flush with the top. Assemble the frame around the panel with the panel floating in its grooves. Do not glue the panel across its full width. The panel needs room to expand and contract across the grain. A drop of glue in the center of each long groove is enough to keep it positioned.
After the lid dries, place it on the box and check the overhang. Aim for about 1/16 inch on each side. Install the hinges approximately 2 1/2 inches in from each end. Mark the hinge mortises with a knife, then remove the waste with a chisel. The leaves should sit flush or just below the wood surface. Test the hinges with screws installed before applying finish.
If the lid springs open, the hinge barrels may not be aligned or the rear edge may be rubbing. Correct the wood before adding a stronger catch. For a box that will carry loose stationery, a small magnetic cabinet catch is quieter and less likely to snag than a decorative clasp.
Sand and Finish
Sand the box to 180 grit, stopping there unless you want a very smooth, low-traction surface. Break sharp outside edges with two or three light passes. Vacuum the dust rather than wiping aggressively with a wet rag, which can raise the grain and swell tight-fitting parts.
For a practical finish, apply two or three thin coats of wiping varnish or a hardwax oil. Wiping varnish gives better moisture resistance and is forgiving on a first project; hardwax oil is faster to repair but costs more. Sand lightly between varnish coats with 320-grit paper. Finish the tray separately and test-fit it after every coat. Finish buildup is a common reason a previously smooth tray starts sticking.
Attach the feet after the finish cures, then add felt or cork to the tray contact points if the box rattles. Store the finished box away from a radiator or sunny window. With accurate joinery and a little seasonal clearance, it will protect pens, letters, and notebooks for years rather than becoming another decorative box that cannot be opened.