What's inside
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A narrow laundry sorter is useful when floor space is tight but clothes still need separating. This design has three removable, slatted bins in a simple wooden frame. It measures about 30 inches wide, 18 inches deep, and 34 inches tall, with bins sized to fit roughly 10-inch-wide openings. Adjust those dimensions to suit your laundry baskets before cutting: a frame built around the wrong basket size is an easy mistake to avoid.
Contents
Dimensions and design
The frame uses four legs, two side panels, and front and back rails at each bin level. Slats form each bin’s bottom and sides, leaving gaps for airflow. The bins are open at the top and lift out individually, so you can carry one load to the washer without moving the others.
Plan for three bins that are about 10 inches wide, 15 inches deep, and 9 inches tall. Leave at least ½ inch of clearance around each bin so it won’t bind when the wood swells or the frame goes slightly out of square. A ¾-inch gap between slats is a good starting point: wide enough for airflow, narrow enough to support small garments.
Measure the actual laundry baskets or loads you intend to use. If you want to store detergent on top, keep the top surface flat and allow room for the bottle; don’t make the sorter taller than you can comfortably reach.
Materials and tools
Use straight, dry pine for an inexpensive indoor build, or poplar if you want a harder, smoother paint-grade frame. Avoid wet construction lumber, which can twist as it dries. For a basic version, buy 1×2 pine boards for slats and rails, plus 1×3 or 1×4 stock for the legs and side pieces. A ¼-inch plywood panel can replace slats on the bin bottoms, but it will be heavier and less airy.
You’ll also need wood glue, 1¼-inch screws, sandpaper, and a finish suited to an indoor laundry area. A drill/driver, saw, square, tape measure, and clamps cover the basic work. A miter saw makes repeat cuts faster, but a handsaw and a stop block are adequate for this project.
| Bin bottom | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Spaced wood slats | Airflow, easy repairs, matches the design | More cuts and assembly; small items may catch |
| ¼-inch plywood | Quick to cut and supports socks or small items | Less ventilation; edges need sealing |
Cut list and layout
For a frame about 30 inches wide, cut four legs to 34 inches. Cut four front-and-back rails per level—or six rails total if you use one pair at each of the three bin positions—to the width between the legs. With 1×3 legs arranged at the corners, that dimension will be close to 24 inches; check your actual layout before cutting. Cut side rails to suit the 18-inch overall depth, subtracting the thickness of the legs where they meet.
For each bin, cut two side pieces and two end pieces to make a rectangle about 10 by 15 inches. Add bottom slats across the 10-inch width, spaced about ¾ inch apart. For the bin sides, use short vertical corner strips or simple rails, keeping the top open. These are approximate dimensions, not a substitute for a dry-fit: lay out the frame and one bin before batch-cutting all three.
Build the frame
Mark the bin-support levels on all four legs. For 9-inch-tall bins with about 1 inch of clearance above each, mark the rail positions to leave roughly 10 inches of vertical space per opening. Keep the lowest bin high enough to clear the floor and any baseboard; 3 inches of floor clearance is practical for sweeping.
Assemble the two side panels first, using a square to keep the legs parallel. Drill pilot holes before driving screws, especially near board ends. A screw driven without a pilot hole can split a 1×2, leaving a joint that looks tight but has little holding strength. Attach the front and back rails at the marked heights, checking both diagonals; if they differ, the frame is racked. Tighten clamps or push the longer diagonal inward until they match, then fasten the joints.
Glue is useful on clean, close-fitting joints, but don’t rely on it to correct gaps. If the sorter will carry heavy loads, add a rail across the back of each opening or a plywood back strip to resist side-to-side wobble. A narrow frame can tip if pulled forward, so anchor it to a wall with a suitable furniture strap, especially in a home with children.
Make the slatted bins
Build each bin as a shallow rectangle. Glue and screw the end pieces between the sides, checking for square before adding the bottom. Lay the bottom slats evenly across the width, leaving consistent gaps, and fasten each end with a small screw or brad. Predrill slats close to their ends to reduce splitting. Sand the edges smooth so fabric doesn’t snag when clothes are lifted out.
Set each bin in its opening and test it with a small load. If it rubs, find the high spot rather than sanding away a large amount of material blindly. A bin that fits empty may bind when loaded if its bottom bows; add one narrow center support underneath if the slats flex noticeably.
Finish and maintenance
Round over exposed corners and sand to 150 or 180 grit. For a painted sorter, use a primer and durable interior paint, allowing each coat to dry fully before inserting the bins. For a natural look, a water-based clear finish is easy to clean and usually has less odor than oil-based finishes. A water-based polyurethane is a practical option for surfaces that may get damp, but it does not make the wood waterproof.
Keep the sorter out of direct splashes and wipe up spills promptly. Check screw joints after the first few weeks of use; if a rail loosens, remove the load and retighten it rather than driving a larger screw into a split board. If the slats stain or smell, remove the bins, clean them with mild soap, and let them dry completely before returning them to the frame.