What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
This tote is sized for hand tools you reach for often, not a full workshop’s worth of gear. It has a 12-by-18-inch plywood base, low sides, a center handle, and a removable divider that separates two compartments. The dimensions can be adjusted, but keeping the handle and divider slots aligned is what makes the build go smoothly.
Contents
Dimensions and materials
The finished tote is about 18 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 8 inches tall, including the handle. Use 1/2-inch plywood for the base and sides, and 3/4-inch plywood for the handle. A half sheet of 1/2-inch plywood is more than enough; clear scraps are fine if they are flat and free of loose veneers.
| Part | Quantity | Cut size |
|---|---|---|
| Base | 1 | 12 × 18 inches |
| Long sides | 2 | 18 × 7 inches |
| End sides | 2 | 11 × 7 inches |
| Handle | 1 | 3 × 18 inches, 3/4-inch plywood |
| Divider | 1 | 11 × 6 1/2 inches, 1/2-inch plywood |
The end pieces fit between the long sides, giving an outside width of 12 inches. The divider sits across the width, leaving two compartments approximately 9 inches long each. For tools with long handles, shift the divider toward one end or leave it out when needed.
Tools and fasteners
You’ll need a saw that can make straight cuts, a drill or driver, a square, measuring tape, clamps, and sandpaper. A circular saw with a clamped straightedge is adequate; a table saw makes repeat cuts easier but is not essential. A straightedge guide for a circular saw helps keep the long side cuts square.
Use 1 1/4-inch wood screws for attaching the sides to the base, plus wood glue. For the handle, use glue and screws driven through the end panels. A drill-bit and countersink set makes clean pilot holes. The screws are there to clamp the joints while the glue cures; they do not compensate for a gap or a badly split edge.
Cut and mark the pieces
Mark all parts before cutting, and check each dimension against the plywood thickness you actually have. Plywood sold as 1/2 inch may measure closer to 15/32 inch, which is usually fine here. If your material is substantially thinner or thicker, adjust the end-piece width so it fits between the long sides and the outside width remains about 12 inches.
Cut the base and sides with the show faces oriented outward. Label the inside face of each panel. On both long sides, mark a centered handle opening: 8 inches long and 1 inch high, with its bottom edge 4 1/2 inches above the bottom of the panel. Drill a hole inside each end of the opening, cut between the holes, then file or sand the edges smooth. Keep at least 1 1/2 inches of material above the opening so the rail does not become fragile.
Make the removable divider
Mark the divider position 9 inches from one end on the inside of both long sides. Check that the marks are directly opposite one another with a square. Cut a slot at each mark, 1/2 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep, starting at the top edge of the side panel. A jigsaw works for these short cuts; make several passes if needed rather than forcing the blade sideways.
Test-fit the divider in the slots before assembly. It should slide in without hammering and sit upright. If it binds, widen the slots slightly with a file or sandpaper. If the fit is loose, the divider can still work, but it may rattle; a thin strip of adhesive-backed felt inside each slot can take up a small amount of play. Don’t glue the divider in place—the point is to remove it.
Assemble the tote
Sand the inside faces and edges now, while the parts are easy to reach. Apply a thin bead of glue along one long edge of the base. Set a long side on the base, align its bottom edge, and clamp it. Drill pilot holes about every 4 inches, keeping them centered in the 1/2-inch panel, then drive the screws. Repeat for the other long side.
Fit the end panels between the long sides, checking that the box is square by measuring both diagonals. If the diagonal measurements differ by more than about 1/8 inch, adjust the clamps before the glue sets. Glue and screw the ends to the base and side panels. Wipe away squeezed-out glue before it hardens. Plywood edges split easily, so keep pilot holes centered and at least 3/8 inch from an edge; reduce driver torque if screw heads start sinking too far.
Fit the handle and finish
Center the 3-inch-wide handle strip across the tote, passing it through the openings in the long sides. Set it so roughly 1 inch projects above the sides. Drill pilot holes through each end panel into the handle, then glue and screw the handle in place. Keep the screws clear of the cutout edges. Round over the handle’s top corners and sand the gripping area until it feels comfortable in your hand.
Ease the exposed plywood edges with sandpaper; sharp corners chip quickly when the tote is set down. Apply a water-based clear finish if the tote will see damp garages or job sites, following the label’s drying time. Bare plywood is acceptable for indoor use and is easier to touch up, but it absorbs grime and moisture. Avoid soaking the tote or leaving it on wet concrete.
Check the load and use
After the glue cures, lift the empty tote and check for movement at the handle and corners. Add tools gradually and inspect for flex or cracking before carrying it across a shop. This is a light-duty organizer, not a substitute for a rated jobsite carrier. Keep heavy tools low and distribute weight across the base rather than loading one end.
For a more durable build, choose better-quality plywood with fewer voids; for a shop-only tote, inexpensive construction plywood is usually adequate if the cut edges are sound. A water-based polyurethane finish is a practical middle ground: it adds some moisture and dirt resistance without the stronger odor and cleanup demands of many oil-based finishes.