What's inside
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Contents
Project overview
This riser lifts a laptop about 4 inches and holds it on two cross-lap supports. The design uses a flat top and a pair of feet that slot together underneath it. It suits a beginner with a saw, a drill, and a way to sand accurately. Allow an afternoon for cutting and fitting, plus drying time if you glue the joint.
The dimensions below fit many 13- to 16-inch laptops, but check your machine before cutting. The top is 12 inches deep by 18 inches wide; the supports spread across the depth and leave room for airflow. Keep the rear edge open rather than adding a solid back panel.
Materials and tools
Use a ¾-inch-thick hardwood or good-quality plywood top, 18 by 12 inches. For the supports, use two pieces of ¾-inch stock, each 12 inches long and 4 inches tall. Hardwood such as maple or oak resists dents, while plywood is less likely to cup and is often cheaper. Avoid warped boards: a twisted top makes the laptop rock even if the supports are square.
You will also need a ruler or combination square, pencil, saw, drill, clamps, and sandpaper in 120- and 180-grit. A combination square makes it easier to lay out the slots at right angles. A handsaw is adequate for the cross-laps; a jigsaw is quicker but needs careful control to keep the slot walls straight.
For a clean, repeatable cut, a fine-tooth pull saw is a useful option, though a basic backsaw works too. You do not need a router for this project.
Dimensions and fit
The table compares two practical top sizes. Choose by measuring the laptop’s footprint, not just its screen size. Leave at least ½ inch of support beyond each side and avoid covering vents on the underside.
| Top size | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 16 × 10 inches | Compact 13- or 14-inch laptop | Uses less desk space, but offers little room for a mouse |
| 18 × 12 inches | Most 14- to 16-inch laptops | More stable and useful, but takes up more desk space |
Set the top height to suit your chair and desk. Four-inch supports are a starting point, not a rule: sit normally and measure the lift needed to bring the top of the screen closer to eye level. A riser does not replace an external keyboard and mouse if raising the screen makes typing uncomfortable.
Mark the cross-lap slots
Mark the center of each support piece at 6 inches from either end. On the first piece, mark a slot centered on that line, ¾ inch wide and 2 inches deep down from the top edge. On the second, mark the same-width slot, but measure 2 inches up from the bottom edge. When the pieces interlock, the bottoms and tops align, creating a support about 4 inches high.
Measure the actual stock thickness before cutting. If it measures ⅝ inch rather than ¾ inch, make the slots ⅝ inch wide. A slot that is too tight can split the support during assembly; one that is too loose lets the feet wobble. Mark both sides of each piece so you can see the cut line from either face.
Cut and fit the supports
Clamp one support securely. Saw down the two slot boundaries to the marked depth, then make several relief cuts between them and remove the waste. Pare high spots with a chisel or sandpaper on a flat block. Repeat for the other support. Work slowly near the depth line: an overcut weakens the joint and is difficult to hide.
Test-fit the pieces by sliding the slots together. They should seat with firm hand pressure, without hammering. If they bind, shave a little from the slot walls; do not widen the entire slot at once. If they wobble, glue can help, but a noticeably loose joint is better remade than filled with a thick layer of adhesive.
Attach the top
Center the crossed supports under the top, with one support near the front and one near the rear. Leave about 1½ inches from each long edge so the base is stable without obstructing the laptop’s feet. Check that the assembly sits flat on the bench before fastening.
For a removable top, drill pilot holes through the supports and use four 1¼-inch wood screws from underneath. Keep the screw tips well short of the top surface; test on scrap if you are unsure. For a permanent joint, use a thin, even coat of wood glue and clamp the top in place. Glue alone can work, but screws make alignment easier and allow later repair.
Sand, finish, and test
Sand the top and supports with 120-grit, then 180-grit paper. Ease sharp corners with a few light passes so they do not chip or catch sleeves. Apply a thin coat of water-based polyurethane, hardwax oil, or another finish suitable for indoor furniture. Follow the label’s drying instructions and do not set a laptop on the surface until the finish has fully cured; trapped heat can mark a soft coating.
Before use, press down on each corner and check for rocking. If it rocks, identify whether the top is cupped or a support is uneven; sanding a low corner will make matters worse. Put the laptop in place and gently push from the sides. If the base shifts, add thin rubber pads under the feet or widen the support spacing. Keep the laptop’s vents clear, and do not use the riser for a machine that leaves no safe clearance for airflow.