Build a Simple Plywood Printer Stand with an Open Paper Shelf

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A printer stand needs to do two things well: keep the printer steady and put paper within easy reach. This simple plywood design has an open shelf, a top sized for a typical home printer, and no drawer hardware or complicated joinery. Build it from one sheet of 3/4-inch plywood, then adjust the dimensions to suit your machine.

Dimensions and fit

The example stand is 24 inches wide, 18 inches deep, and 28 inches tall. Its open shelf sits 3 inches above the floor, leaving room for a paper stack and some clearance underneath. The top is large enough for many compact inkjet and laser printers, but measure your printer before cutting: allow at least 2 inches of extra width and depth, and check where its paper tray and access panels open.

Keep the printer’s operating weight and footprint in mind. A small stand can work for a home printer, but a heavy office laser printer may need a wider base, thicker material, or additional bracing. Check the printer manual for its weight and any clearance requirements.

Materials and tools

Use one 4-by-8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood. Cabinet-grade plywood has a smoother face and fewer voids, but construction-grade plywood is a reasonable lower-cost choice for a utility stand. Avoid sheets with delaminated edges or large voids where you plan to drive screws. You’ll also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch screws, sandpaper, and paint or clear finish.

A circular saw and straightedge are enough to break down the sheet; a table saw makes repeatable cuts easier. A drill-driver, tape measure, square, clamps, and eye and hearing protection cover the rest. If you don’t own a saw, compare local sheet-goods cutting services or look for a circular saw and straightedge guide before buying a larger saw for one project.

Cut list

Cut the following pieces from the plywood. The top sits over the sides; the lower shelf fits between them. The back panel is narrower than the full stand width so it can fit between the sides.

These dimensions assume 3/4-inch plywood and a 24-inch-wide top. The sides are 27 1/4 inches tall so the top brings the overall height to 28 inches. The shelf is shown 3 inches above the floor; trim its depth if you want to leave the front edge open for easy paper access.

Cut and assemble

Mark each cut with a square and account for the saw blade’s kerf—the material removed by the blade—when laying out pieces. Support the sheet fully while cutting so the offcut cannot pinch the blade. Sand cut edges lightly before assembly; a 5-inch random-orbit sander is convenient, but sanding by hand with a block works fine on this small project.

Lay the two sides flat and mark the shelf position 3 inches up from the bottom. Apply glue to the shelf ends, set it between the sides, and clamp the assembly square. Drill pilot holes through the sides into the shelf, then drive screws about every 6 inches. Pilot holes matter here: screws driven directly into plywood edges can split the plies or force them apart.

Check that the sides are parallel and the shelf is level before the glue sets. A quick check is to measure diagonally across the frame; matching diagonal measurements indicate the assembly is square. Attach the back panel between the sides with glue and screws, keeping its bottom edge aligned with the sides. The back helps prevent racking, the side-to-side wobble common in narrow furniture.

Set the top in place with equal overhangs at the front and sides. Glue and screw down through the top into the side panels and back. Keep screws far enough from the edges to avoid breakout, and countersink them slightly if you want to fill the heads before painting. Wipe away squeezed-out glue before it dries.

Stability and finish

Before loading the printer, set the stand on a level floor and push gently from side to side. If it rocks, adjust the feet or use thin shims. If it flexes, check for loose joints and confirm that the back panel is fastened securely. A stand that wobbles can make printing noisier and may let a printer walk toward an edge during operation.

Round sharp corners with sandpaper and smooth the exposed edges. Plywood edges absorb finish differently from their faces, so use edge banding or apply a suitable primer before paint if you want a more even result. Clear finish is quicker and keeps the plywood look, while paint can hide mismatched faces and patched screw holes. Let the finish cure fully before putting paper or equipment on the stand.

Paper shelf options

The open shelf is the simplest and cheapest way to store paper, but paper left exposed can collect dust. A shallow lip along the front edge helps keep a stack from sliding without making it hard to grab. Compare the trade-offs before adding more parts:

For ordinary printer paper, the open shelf is usually enough. Store unopened reams in their wrapping, and avoid placing paper where floor dampness or heat can reach it. If the shelf will hold heavy supplies as well, add a center support beneath it rather than relying on a long unsupported plywood span.